POR 15 Experiment

[pflaming]

I just cleaned and treated my spindles and steering arms with Jasco Prime and Paint (ACE)which is the same as POR 15 (NAPA) but 1/3 the price.

On a hunch, I treated a part of the back side of my tail gate as well. The area had three surfaces: (1) shiny metal the result of too much sanding, (2) nice solid paint, (3) hard 'sun cured' surface which has no paint and does not sand shiny.

I treated the area: (1) the shiny metal is still shiny, (2) the solid paint has a nice polished look (wet look), (3) the rust suface is still 'brown' and 'rusty' but has a nice shiny, smooth surface. These results are six hrs after treatment. It will cure overnight and I will see what the results are.

UPDATE: 15 hours of cure time= all metal surfaces (shiny, 'hard' rust) are dry, have a nice surface, and a nice shine. The painted areas are still wet or sticy to the touch. Since por 15 and Jasco are RUST INHIBITORS and work chemically, it appears it cannot react to the paint. What appeals to me is than this can be applied with a brush so one can be more exact than with a rattle can. So since I have many small shiny metal areas I can brush treat them and then maybe polish the paint area and will not have to clear coat the truck. This idea also does not hinder a later paint job should one want to do that.

I will post pictures later.

Edited January 21, 2012 by pflaming
Update

[John-T-53]

Jasco prime n' paint is the same stuff (phosphoric acid solution). There's another called "osh-pho" or something like that. Basically a metal prep - neutralizes iron oxide and trreats surfaces of bare steel to create a "bite" for the paint to adhere to better. It' won't react to paint but it'll stain it, and may damage it. If you have enough of the solution you can dip parts in it and remove rust completely overnight usually.

[pflaming]

John, I have a nice short glass jar, I'm going to put some Jasco in it and put the screws from my windshield frames in the solution and see how they clean up.

My test is on going. Did another section yesterday. The shiny is still shiny, the hard rusty steel has a nice smooth finish, and the OLD original paint looks like it has clear coat on it. I'm testing on the back side of my tail gate. It will be painted anyway so a good place to test.

The spindles look great, a nice black color. Will post pics when I get the cables for my camera.

Edit: OT: Just heard Joe Paterno passed away. Sad ending, he was an enjoyable guy to watch over the years. May he rest in peace!

Edited January 22, 2012 by pflaming

[Big50Dodge]

I tried 'zero rust' on my radiator support, the 'shrouding' pieces around it and the insides of my fenders and tail pieces near the body that bolt to the running boards. I used the spray can on the radiator and shrouding pieces, the rest is brushed on with a foam brush. Spraying it on - I used 2 or 3 coats with a day to dry between coats. Truck is stored outside (too big for garage). First rain, the shrouding pieces started to show 'orange' at the edges of the metal. I sprayed over these items with rattle can black rustoleum and all is well 2 years later. Brushed parts are fading, but not showing orange edges as the sprayed parts did. Oh, all parts were stripped to bare metal by a professional prior to painting. I likely won't get zero rust again.

As a compare - same truck, same sunshine, same rain, same everything. I touched up the front bumper about 8 years ago with POR-15. Those areas are holding up fine. No top coat yet.

[nj viking]

So if I'm reading this correctly you guys are using the metal prep for a coating and nothing else?

I used to use it if I finished a panel down to steel to prevent flash rusting before I got back to it; but with the new epoxy primers out now I just hit them with that.

Are you using it to preserve patina?

Being on the rust coast here, I put POR 15 rust converter on most things not in direct sunlight,. ( frame, inner fenders, insides of panels, and especially the cab and floorboards )

[55 Fargo]

So if I'm reading this correctly you guys are using the metal prep for a coating and nothing else?

I used to use it if I finished a panel down to steel to prevent flash rusting before I got back to it; but with the new epoxy primers out now I just hit them with that.

Are you using it to preserve patina?

Being on the rust coast here, I put POR 15 rust converter on most things not in direct sunlight,. ( frame, inner fenders, insides of panels, and especially the cab and floorboards )

Phosphoric acid, rusty metal primer or 2 k epoxy primer, and some enamel topcoat (tremclad or rustoleum), has worked great for floors, inner fenders, etc.

I think that POR 15 is over priced and over rated, there are a lot of other good less expensive products on the market.

the POR 15 paint, is a good product, but for the money, I have used other products with great results

[55 Fargo]

I just cleaned and treated my spindles and steering arms with Jasco Prime and Paint (ACE)which is the same as POR 15 (NAPA) but 1/3 the price.

On a hunch, I treated a part of the back side of my tail gate as well. The area had three surfaces: (1) shiny metal the result of too much sanding, (2) nice solid paint, (3) hard 'sun cured' surface which has no paint and does not sand shiny.

I treated the area: (1) the shiny metal is still shiny, (2) the solid paint has a nice polished look (wet look), (3) the rust suface is still 'brown' and 'rusty' but has a nice shiny, smooth surface. These results are six hrs after treatment. It will cure overnight and I will see what the results are.

UPDATE: 15 hours of cure time= all metal surfaces (shiny, 'hard' rust) are dry, have a nice surface, and a nice shine. The painted areas are still wet or sticy to the touch. Since por 15 and Jasco are RUST INHIBITORS and work chemically, it appears it cannot react to the paint. What appeals to me is than this can be applied with a brush so one can be more exact than with a rattle can. So since I have many small shiny metal areas I can brush treat them and then maybe polish the paint area and will not have to clear coat the truck. This idea also does not hinder a later paint job should one want to do that.

I will post pictures later.

Here hit all the rusty areas with this great little item from 3m.

These things go on any drill, and make short work of rust and old paint, and they get into a lot of tight areas, if you have good dexterity with your hands and the drill.

Then hit those areas with the acid, and prime or topcoat with your POR.

Used this item on the front clip in pic, which was full of corrosion and old paint

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MMM0/03171.oap?pt=N0483

Edited January 27, 2012 by Rockwood

[ggdad1951]

well the POR15 is still on my hands from 3 days ago....so it must be good! I slobbered the insides of my doors the other night.

Edited January 27, 2012 by ggdad1951

[pflaming]

Darn, I just glued rubber sound deading in my doors yesterday. If it comes loose, I'll know how to fix it. I use WD 40 and JB Blaster to clean after that stuff, rubs right off. Wife appreciates it when my hands are clean. Looks better at dinner time, at my age, that's the best I can do.

[55 Fargo]

well the POR15 is still on my hands from 3 days ago....so it must be good! I slobbered the insides of my doors the other night.

Nobody said it was not good, POR and many other stick like $hit to a blanket.

Some problems have been delaminating etc, but it is a very expensive product. Zero Rust topcoats work well too, but are less money.

I clean up the rust, use Picklex(phos acid), then rusty metal primer shot out of spraygun, and topcoated, works excellent for me.

2k epoxy primer is very good for adhesion and corrosion resistance, but needs topcoating.

Depends on what you are doing, frames, floors, battery trays, etc, POR away, whatver works for you, is whats best........

[pflaming]

The first two pictures show some cleaning and treatment with Jasco. The third picture, to me, shows that Jasco (por 15) kept the shiny metal shiny, and solid 50 year old paint became glossy. My truck had been repainted and the treatment discolored that paint and it will have to be removed, it won't be hard to do.

Note the top edge of the gate. That is how the top of my fenders are. I do not know if clear will stick to them but the Jasco does.

SO. . . using the bed side shown as an example, how do I prep it for a clear coat? Jasco the shiny spots or etch primer them? I'm going to leave the gate outside in the rain and the fog for a month and see what happens. Will update then.

BUT. . . puzzled what to do with the top of the cab.

Suggestions welcomed.

Edited October 16, 2017 by pflaming

[Dave72dt]

You'll need to create a surface that will allow a mechanical bond. Grey scotchbrite on the tight areas and 600 grit wetordry on the rest unless you want sand marks, clean thoroughly finishing with wax and grease remover. tacking and apply clear/ instructions.

Hopefully you don't get a chemical reaction between types of material. You might want to try it on the inside of the tailgate before doing the whole truck.