Newbie type fluid drive questions.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Guy's;

Am digging into my "new" 52 B-3-C and have a couple of questions regarding the Fluid drive. I want to get the truck running in the condition it is in and have drained and flushed the engine oil/sump, the gearbox (4 speed) and the rear axle. I think that it is probably a good idea if I do this with the fluid drive as well. If all goes well I will run it for a short period with fresh fluids and then change them all again.

My question is should I flush the fluid drive out with kerosene once the old oil has been drained? And is the tractor oil that Napa carries a suitable/adequate oil to refill it with?

Again I am not planning on going any distances with the truck for quite a while.....I just want to get it to a state that it can be moved under it's own power.

Thanks, Jeff

[Dodgeb4ya]

If it was mine...and didn't want it to possibly leak after flushing and changing the fluid I'd check the fluid level only as per the shop manual instructions. Rotate the coupling to the fill plug hole-check level, and be careful to not drop the coupling fill plug into the bell housing!

Bob

[Merle Coggins]

Don't flush anything through it. If it reacts with the seal and damages it you're screwed. If you with to change the FD oil, bar the engine over until the FD plug is at the bottom. Pull the plug and let it drain over night. The rotate it up to line up with fill hole. Then with a funnel slowly refill with tractor hydraulic fluid (32 or 46 viscosity). It will take fluid slowly. Add a little and wait, add a little and wait, etc, untill it won't take any more. Then carefully replace the plug and you're done. A magnetic socket is your friend here. If you don't have one, use a paper shop towel over the end of the socket and insert the plug into it. The paper towel will fill the gap and hold the plug into the socket.

Merle

[Jeff Balazs]

Thank you Merle;

I will not flush it then. As I am looking at draining this unit it seems there is only a very small hole in the bottom of the housing for this to drain through. Does this sound correct or do I have to remove part of the housing?

Looking at it it seems to be a fairly nasty job to take this housing apart so I don't want to if it isn't necessary. I have looked through the archives and pdfs for servicing instructions but have not yet found an explanation.

I am part way into the "process" of removing the water distribution tube

The archives have been helpful with this lovely little chore. Have got about 8" of it out in pieces so far....... should I save these and send them in when I apply for my first Mopar merit badge?

Thanks again, Jeff

[Dodgeb4ya]

Does the engine even start and do you know that it will start and run ok?

[Merle Coggins]

Jeff,

There is a cover on the bottom of the bell housing, held on by 6 or 8 bolts. Once you drop the cover down the bottom third of the FD and clutch will be exposed making the draining process easy.

Merle

[Jeff Balazs]

Merle.....thank you again.

Is there anything special I should know about removing this cover? It almost looks as it would be a stinker to get off......but then it is still covered with crud.

Bob;

I do have what seems like decent compression @105-120 across the cylinders. Which I suppose is enough considering it has sat for God know's how long. The oil that was in it was clean........and there was nothing but carbon residue in the pan when I flushed it with kerosene. Of course it still may have a problem.

Guess I will find out after I have finished the carb and ignition work.

Overall all the main components have looked pretty good so I am keeping my fingers crossed that I have one without a serious issue.

I just figured since I had the water pump off I would have a go at getting the infamous tube out. It is going to have to be replaced sooner or soon any way.

Meanwhile I have young Sean cleaning up the light surface rust we had on the body parts.......I can't get over how decent the body is.

Jeff

Jeff

[Young Ed]

105-120 should get you a good runner.

[Jeff Balazs]

Young Ed;

Well I hope so.....at least for a while.

Been doing battle with the old water distribution tube..... it is coming out in pieces..... I figure I have about two thirds of it out now. Fun, fun, fun.

Jeff

[austinsailor]

My old barn find has about 30 lbs on each with a fair amount of oil in each cylinder. I was shocked when it started and ran well. It still does.

You should do well with your readings!

[Rusty O'Toole]

My manuals say nothing about draining the fluid drive or changing the fluid. Just check and top up every 10,000 miles.

If you change yours, before you remove or replace the plug (when it is in the up position) stuff a rag around the hole so you can't accidentally drop the plug down into the bellhousing.

Use thin oil, it will work better. # 10 motor oil or ISO 22 or 32 TDH tractor fluid.