pflaming Posted November 18, 2011 Report Posted November 18, 2011 (edited) Tom, these show what can be found under oxidation and rust. The top of the cab was ROUGH and rust brown. Under the rust was color. I had to buy a different hood, under the red was the blue. If I had thought earlier I would have left more red to give a 'flame' look. The truck had been repainted, the 2nd coat went off fast and under it was the origial blue. This will get one more very fine sanding then clear coated. Tom has a neat old truck with good solid paint. Good luck tom. Edited November 18, 2011 by pflaming spelling / added comment Quote
Dan Babb Posted November 18, 2011 Report Posted November 18, 2011 That's cool. I'd find a way to flatten out the clear - not a total flat, but something that's not too glossy. It will fit the patina look a lot better than a high gloss finish on top. Quote
pflaming Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Posted November 19, 2011 Question: Could one use Greybeard's 'roll on' method for applying a clear coat????: Quote
Dave72dt Posted November 19, 2011 Report Posted November 19, 2011 Question: Could one use Greybeard's 'roll on' method for applying a clear coat????: It'll still dry clear, likely with a rougher texture than you would spraying it on. Quote
tom'sB2B Posted November 19, 2011 Report Posted November 19, 2011 Thanks for the help Paul. Now I'll have to get to work on it. I'll post some before and after pics:) Quote
48Dodger Posted November 19, 2011 Report Posted November 19, 2011 Hey Paul, The only concern I would have with shooting clear is the reintroduction of solvent to the old paint. The old paint may lift, wrinkle and or "spider". If you spray it, I would appy thin coats to allow it to gas off quickly. Since you asked about roller application, I'm guessing you might not be the one doing the spraying. I would believe for what youre doing here, the roller would work fine. Just keep it thin. The flat clear is harder to spray evenly, but again, for what your doing the roller will help with that. what will be the real work is the cut and buff. It may involve an 800 cut, steps up to 1500 finish cut, and then the buffer. 48D Quote
pflaming Posted November 20, 2011 Author Report Posted November 20, 2011 (edited) 48D: I removed the first layer of oxidation with straight lacquer thinner. Just gave the entire truck a total 'wash' job. An older friend said that car dealers in the 50's used thinner before they polished them. He said the old paints were hard enough to take it. So that is what I did. I didn't use any buffing compounds to clean the surface. The first picture is the truck as found the second picture is the passenger door after being rubbed clean with thinner. You've seen later pictures. So far the paint has not degenerated since that wash job. I wet sanded the truck after the wash job, used too aggressive paper at first but I'm learning. The last picture is the current situation. Question: Is solvent a synonym of lacquer thinner? Edited October 16, 2017 by pflaming Quote
48Dodger Posted November 20, 2011 Report Posted November 20, 2011 (edited) Not getting to technical, there are a lot of solvents. The laquer thinner you are using is a solvent that "thins lacquer", is made from many solvent types, evaporates at a moderate to fast rate, thou there is no standard for this rate. Automotive Lacquer Thinner is blended for automotive use. Either for clean up (more dissolver) or painting (more dilution). It'll have both in the blend but often varies. To keep it simple in my head...most solvents are from a single source, Lacquer thinner is from many. Chances are you are using a clean up lacquer thinner....its not being given the chance to react with any of the old paint....wipe on/wipe off...dries fast. Solvents in the the clear MAY react with the old paint. The drying time is longer, exposure to the solvent longer, the volume of solvent exposed to, and amount of shrinkage of the clear vs. adhesion strength of the old paint. That's why I mentioned going thin to start out with...let the clear gas off more quickly and evenly....give that old paint a fighting chance. 48D Edited November 20, 2011 by 48dodger Quote
pflaming Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Posted January 21, 2012 Decided to add to this thread: $28,000.00 selling price!!!!!!!!! I wonder what was under the hood. I have an POR 20 test going now. Will add photos on the results. It looks like the truck in the attachment is untouched! They list it as a '52 but it has a 55 Grill, windshield, and push button door handles, so it is an early '55. Quote
Desotodav Posted January 21, 2012 Report Posted January 21, 2012 ... give me something like this that a fella described as a "nice untouched original vehicle with just a couple of subtle embellishments". Desotodav Quote
HanksB3B Posted January 21, 2012 Report Posted January 21, 2012 dissasembled and as listed parts on eBay...maybe. Hank P.S. Desotodav, I thought you sold that truck of yours? Quote
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