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Posted

Okay I'm always the last to know these things so I would like to share with those as ill informed as me. I always am usually made to feel silly but I'm going to post anyway - again for those like me not the mighty zen masters.

Many people have spoken about the pros and cons to putting the engine in with the trans attached. I have tried it both ways. A friend brought me a device I have never seen before. Instead of dropping the engine so you can get another bite on the chain you just crank the handle. It changes the angle of the motor and it just drops right in.

My wife went crazy with the pictures (and I thank her for it). Except for the heat the entire process went off without a problem - took about 2 hours. It wouldn't have taken that long but we took the bell housing off to get that leather dust cover on. Another lesson learned. The whole experience: Slick.

just thought I'd share...

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Posted

The mechanic who's done some work for me, including two or three engine

swaps, has one of those devices. It works real well.

When putting the engine in the 49 P15 coupe, we did learn that you can't

use the bellhousing from a 41 Plymouth in a P15. It hit on the lower edge

of the firewall. So had to pull the engine back out, change housings, then

go again.

Posted

the load leveler is a plus when pulling or intalling an engine....given the amount of work they save for the user and their basic low cost..if you have a hoist..you ought to have one of these..even siple engine work with the doghouse off..the leveler is still the way to go..

Posted (edited)

Nice work Don!

Now you put to rest the question I have had. The engine can be installed with the trans and the front end installed. Do you think it could have been done with the hood on? When I rebuilt my engine I removed and installed the engine with the hood on and the front end installed but with the trans removed. All done without the tool you had (would have been nice to have).

Removal

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Edited by aero3113
Posted

Hey Aero, thats a lot of weight to be hanging from a screwdriver shank....

Anyone contemplating buying a load leveler, read the specs carefully, and stay away from the one at harbor freight. They have a tendancy to strip out the threads in the nuts the adjusting screw runs through. Not a good situation. Also if you have a picker with an extendable boom, make sure the camping bolts are well tightened before you start picking the engine.

(don't ask how I know)

Posted

Yes - I am missing those little screens - Do you know anyone that sells them? I was thinking of just getting some window screen and trying to make something.

any suggestions?

Posted
Hey Aero, thats a lot of weight to be hanging from a screwdriver shank....

Yea, we couldn't find a bolt at the time that would fit. The chain would get cocked and it seemed like the screw driver was the only thing that would fit.

Posted

I also notice that you have your rear motor mounts already bolted on. Another lesson learned. I put the motor in first and then went under the car to try to align the mounts. I think it's going to need more work because now the front pulley is not in the right position to accept the belt.

Is there a plate that goes under the bolts on the front motor mount brace? My friend remembers seeing them - I don't. I was just going to use washers.

I'm glad I took lots of pictures - I'm starting to forget where everything goes.

Posted
Yes - I am missing those little screens - Do you know anyone that sells them? I was thinking of just getting some window screen and trying to make something.

any suggestions?

I also was missing the screens. I got some from forum member David Maxwell. I dont know if he has any more. You might try the parts for sale area of this forum.

Parts1.jpg

I also notice that you have your rear motor mounts already bolted on. Another lesson learned. I put the motor in first and then went under the car to try to align the mounts. I think it's going to need more work because now the front pulley is not in the right position to accept the belt.

Is there a plate that goes under the bolts on the front motor mount brace? My friend remembers seeing them - I don't. I was just going to use washers.

I'm glad I took lots of pictures - I'm starting to forget where everything goes.

You should be able to rotate your crankshaft (for correct positioning to install the fan belt) by using the flywheel and a pair of gloves. Spark plugs should be removed when you do this so you are not fighting compression.

Did you remove the floor panel from your car. By doing so I was able to leave the engine mounts on and install the engine mount bolts and the transmission from the top side as well as all the pedal linkage and master cylinder.

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There is no spacer, washers, or shims that go under the front "floating power" bracket. However there are shims that go under the radiator support bracket to adjust the height of the radiator.

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Posted

FWIW, second-series '49 through '52 Plymouths have a one-piece floor with the exception of the pedal section on the driver's side. Makes access that much more difficult. When I was installing the engine in my '52, I had to dive under the car and use a big screwdriver to guide the rear mounts to the frame crossmember.

Posted

Don: you must have a magnificent picture library with an incredible filing system. When ever a topic comes up you always seem to have picture back up.

It's funny how some of the simplest things can escape our minds. I never thought about removing the floor board - how easy that will be to get to everything. Thank you for the idea. I guess that's what make this forum so valuable.

This picture doesn't show and I'm having trouble finding the other picture. But the pulley is about 1/4 " inside the motor mount bracket. The way it sits now I don't think I could get the generator belt to line up.

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Posted (edited)

I notice that you have not used the correct U-bolt to secure the black floating power bracket. I call this the floating power bracket because the words floating power are stamped on it. The correct bolt can be seen in this picture top center of this pile of hardware. Two of these are required and the U part goes on the bottom with nuts holding the top.

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Edited by Don Coatney
Posted

There is a local guy that produces high quality versions of the load levelers that he sells nationally. The primary one he sells is the one that mounts on the intake manifold of the V8s but I think he makes several Adapters. He is very particular about his work so I would trust what he does. His works a little different than a regular load leveler.

http://www.myks-tools.com/

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