JIPJOBXX Posted June 27, 2011 Report Posted June 27, 2011 The point and condenser plate on my 42 Dodge seems to move up and down in distributor. I know the vacuum advance part makes the plate move a tab bit but sometimes when I adjust the gap the plate which seems to be free floating just move up! Is this true on all these old mopar distributors or I'm missing a screw or some to hold this plate from doing this? Yesterday I went out and when this happen it opens up the breaker points and the car ran very ruff. I have tried to figure out before on my own why this particular part is not secured down but it does run ball bearing and is not locked in place to base plate that sits right below the point plate. I really need an answer on this? I will down load a picture if I can find one that shows this area and maybe someone here can give me an answer. Really would love to have one as its a pain in the butt to have this problem. Jon PS. This sometimes happens when I adjust the gap on the breaker and then all I do is push the plate down back in position but as far as I can tell there is nothing that holds this plate from moving back up and therefor the points will open up way beyond where the setting is suppose to be. Like I said this does not happen all the time just once in a while. Quote
Phil Martin Posted June 27, 2011 Report Posted June 27, 2011 I've never seen one that didn't have a small screw holding the plate down.The one you loosen to adjust points and another locking it down. Quote
captden29 Posted June 27, 2011 Report Posted June 27, 2011 J,i had a 51 buick and the point set started allowing 1/2 of the set to ride up on the shaft causing the engine to run rough. i would push it back down and it would run ok. this actually happened on a trip to L.A. when i lived in calif. i was able to drive off the freeway to an auto parts store, buy a new set of points, and set them as best as possible and went on my way.. perhaps your problem is the point set and replacement will solve it. however, they all do have a small screw that holds the point set to the breaker plate. replace that screw and no more riding up. without that screw how can you set the gap or dwell and get it to hold the setting? if you post pictures it could help to get to the point. ha ha. capt den Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Posted June 27, 2011 Now I have those two screws in place but the breaker plate seems just sit down on top of the base plate. The breaker plate has roller bearing that fit into the base plate and rides at that position but here is where the problem is or maybe I'm reading into it to far? The breaker plate like I said when adjusting the gap does not stay in one place but rides up the shaft and I physically push the plate down. The base plate is new and so is the breaker plate. Does it seem when you are working on your distributor that that breaker plate hast to be push down? Wish I had a good way of explaining this but I have tried my best. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Posted June 27, 2011 I just took this photo and it shows the braker plate sitting in the right position! Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Posted June 27, 2011 I just took this photo and it shows the braker plate sitting in the right position! Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Posted June 27, 2011 \\ This picture is taken with just my figure prying up the distributor plate! IS THIS SUPPOSE TO BE THE WAY THIS UNIT IS INSTALLED! I wonder if the bearing surface on the bottom plate needs to have some locktight put on it to hold the bearing in place or is there some other way of keeping that bearing from ridding out of its postion? Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Posted June 27, 2011 Need some advice! I know some one here has rebuilt there distributor and replaced the distributor plate with the bearing on the bottom. Is this a press fit? Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted June 27, 2011 Report Posted June 27, 2011 Jon, I checked my spare dizzy and the plate does not move at all. I wish I can help you. Tom Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Posted June 27, 2011 I have an idea that the whole assembly needs to have some lock tight on that bearing retainer area. If your does not move like mine than I think I will just epoxy the bearing in that area. Thanks for advice and I will let you know how it works out. Jon Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 27, 2011 Report Posted June 27, 2011 I have an idea that the whole assembly needs to have some lock tight on that bearing retainer area. If your does not move like mine than I think I will just epoxy the bearing in that area. Thanks for advice and I will let you know how it works out. Jon Do you think mother Chrysler used locktite or epoxy before it was invented? If you go ahead and use these products how will you insure that none of these products find there way into the bearing race? If that happens do you think a replacement vacuum advance canister or the mechanical advance will work? Guess I should have posted this information on that other thread. I suggest you inspect your original setup to see why it did not slide up the shaft. Perhaps do a ball bearing count to insure none are missing. Or perhaps inspect the peened flange that secures the ball bearings to insure it has not lost its flare. Make sure you start a new thread for your response. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Posted June 27, 2011 Well I checked all the ball bearing races as I have the distributor out and on my work bench. I have had so many problems with this simple distributor. I think because the area where the dizzy fits in must be work worn but no one here has said anything about how tight that bearing fits on the bottom plate. The dizzy ball bearing race sit in this recess but there is no way to keep it from moving around or up and down. Not much for technical jargon but Don I understand where your coming from but how else can you do to keep that bearing from moving around? I wish I could just install some small set screws to hold that bearing down in place but that's going way above what I want to do. Now I will let you know how that the tread dope works with keeping that bearing in check. PS. Did you want me to start a new thread on this subject on continue on with this tread since it contains this bearing problem? Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Posted June 27, 2011 Not much of a field sketch but I hope someone here can get my point. I just want to know for sure if where that bearing fits is kind of a minus fit as this is where I'm haveing the problem with the bearing moving up! Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted June 28, 2011 Report Posted June 28, 2011 Need some advice! I know some one here has rebuilt there distributor and replaced the distributor plate with the bearing on the bottom. Is this a press fit? At one time I had a lot of these upper and lower plates that were NOS . All of them had dried out grease in the bearings and needed to be separated for new grease . To get them apart , just gently pry them apart . When you want to put them back together just tap them lightly with a small mallet . If I remember correctly you must have them positioned correctly for reassembly so one can move when the vacuum advance is actuated . OK , you have one that is too loose . Probably your idea of a little glue will work fine , just be careful where the glue goes and that the plates are in the right position . If you don't want to use glue , perhaps a small wack with a hammer on the edge of the housing would work , it doesn't take much , they are not a real tight fit . Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Posted June 28, 2011 So what I have is the pieces separate and they are not suppose to do that? The ball bearing are well greased. I guess the race is suppose fit tight on the bottom plate from the factory and mine probably having a couple of hundred thousand miles on it does not fit as well as it did back in 1942. I put some lock-tight on the inside of the bottom housing and now we shall see if that race will pop back out. I wish I could just stake that bearing in place but that is not in the picture YET! Thanks Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted July 1, 2011 Report Posted July 1, 2011 Is your plate fixed yet? Just curious. Tom Quote
greg g Posted July 1, 2011 Report Posted July 1, 2011 did you see my post regarding the screws that hold the cap clips also retaining the breaker plate on my IAT dist. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Posted October 23, 2011 Yes the plate is fixed by buying a new one. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Posted October 23, 2011 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1942-48-Dodge-Plymouth-dist-plate-w-points-cond-/350472802432?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5199ce9080 Quote
Phil Martin Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 Mine had a screw that was too long. Someone lost the original and put in a longer one. I would check this . The longer screw will raise the plate when you tighten it. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 Phill your so right as I had the same problem! Quote
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