Richie Hodge Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) Don, I bought the F100 front shock upper brackets and installed them about two weeks ago. I had researched all the threads I could find and went with that info. My problem was weak front coils so I had to use a shorter shock than the 555004 monroe. I had only 12'' between the mounting bolts with car car on the ground which means the 555004 would bottom out as soon as I sat in the car. I went with the monroe 555003 which has a compressed lenght of 9'' or so, don't remember right now. If the coils were stronger I might have had 14 or 15'' at rest and could have used the 555004. All works well and has not bottomed out. It made a "BIG" difference in the P20's handling and ride. Great improvement. I will try and post a few pics, hope they download. Richie. Almost forgot, I used thick heavy duty washers inside the frame and have checked the tightness twice so far and I cannot tighten them any more, they stayed tight so far. Once I am satisfied with the relocation I will have them welded in place. Edited June 8, 2011 by Richie Hodge Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 Thanks Richie. Do you think the welding will be necessary? Quote
Richie Hodge Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Posted June 8, 2011 Thanks Richie. Do you think the welding will be necessary? Don, if they stay tight the way they are now, welding probably would not be necessary but I would still check the tightness periodically for my own satisfaction. Welding them would make me feel better and I would not have to worry about checking them. The grade 8 bolts would remain even after welding the brackets. I will never go back to the old way. Richie. Quote
1941Rick Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 I agree with Don....I would use a "frame" bolt...available from a truck shop.....welding might comprimise the frame. FYI...frame bolts have a larger grip and the washer is part of the bolt....likewise for the nut the washer is part of the nut.....the ordinary washer is what will fail and cause the bolt to come loose on a regular bolt.... Quote
Jim Yergin Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 I would definitely check them. One of mine came loose after several hundred miles. Re-tightened the bolts and no problems since then. Jim Yergin Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 arc welding should not compromise the frame...per the manual, it is the reccomended method of repairs etc..and grade 5 or better hardware...of course common sense prevails in some cases and use of grade 8 should be used..soing stronger should be better..I do not think that our vehicles had any use of rolled threads..though I could be wrong.. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 Won't the frame sides crush in as the long shock mount bracket bolts get tightened. Also, Don't the steering gear long bolts go through strengthening crush tubes already inserted inside the frame to prevent the steering gear bolts from loosening up? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 the nut is inserted through an opening and then nutted down... Quote
Young Ed Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 Didn't someone on here weld the two nuts to a plate of steel? Seems like that'd be a good way to go. Quote
Smokeybear Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 As long as you are not welding a verticle line on the side of the frame you are ok. Welding horizonally or near horizontal is ok Verticle welding will stress the metal and it will crack. Quote
james curl Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 For Dodgeb4ya and claybill The nut or backing plate is inserted up through the spring pocket so that the bolt only goes through the outer side of the frame. The steering box mounts in the closed box section of the frame which splits and is formed into the spring pocket forward of that point. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 For Dodgeb4ya and claybillThe nut or backing plate is inserted up through the spring pocket so that the bolt only goes through the outer side of the frame. The steering box mounts in the closed box section of the frame which splits and is formed into the spring pocket forward of that point. Seems like a good way to do it to me! Bob Quote
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