Started Work on my OD

[Joe Flanagan]

OK, thanks, guys. I had a feeling something was not right with that lever. DJ1949-50, the transmission comes from a 52 Plymouth. Do I need to switch the levers with the ones that were on my original 3-speed?

I lubed the pilot bushing but not the input shaft.

Don, thanks for the tip. I may wind up trying that. I read some older threads on this subject before I started and I got the point about not using the bolts to pull the transmission in. My wimpy arms and legs have done this three times before but never with a transmission that was this heavy. I will eat my Maypo before I start next time.

Jim, I was trying to get the face of the bell housing and the face of the transmission parallel. The cradle I built did that nicely so I might do a combination of the cradle and the scissor jack.

Yes, I'm working alone. My neighbor offered to help me when I got around to this part, but he wasn't around. I think I might go looking for him for the second attempt.

[DJ194950]

joe,

this pics are from my stock 3 sp. 1950. my 49 parts book shows the same shapes. the overdrive arms where the same on both od's that i've had.

[steveplym]

OK, thanks, guys. I had a feeling something was not right with that lever. DJ1949-50, the transmission comes from a 52 Plymouth. Do I need to switch the levers with the ones that were on my original 3-speed?

I lubed the pilot bushing but not the input shaft.

Don, thanks for the tip. I may wind up trying that. I read some older threads on this subject before I started and I got the point about not using the bolts to pull the transmission in. My wimpy arms and legs have done this three times before but never with a transmission that was this heavy. I will eat my Maypo before I start next time.

Jim, I was trying to get the face of the bell housing and the face of the transmission parallel. The cradle I built did that nicely so I might do a combination of the cradle and the scissor jack.

Yes, I'm working alone. My neighbor offered to help me when I got around to this part, but he wasn't around. I think I might go looking for him for the second attempt.

I went with the arms that came on the transmission Joe. They should work just the same, like the others have said though looks like it is upside down. Flip it over and it should be okay.

Another trick that I am going to try on my next transmission install is use some all thread in the top holes to slide the transmission on and in. Heard that trick from Shel and I would think doing it yourself that may help you a bit.

[Joe Flanagan]

Shel posted a pic of that threaded rod method a while back. Looks like a good idea. I thought about doing that but then got into too much of a hurry.

[Young Ed]

Joe just buy some longer bolts 2.5" or so. Cut the heads off and put a slot in the end for screwdriver removal.

When my buddies and I were sorting out the toolbox I bought at an estate sale I caught one them throwing these away. I said stop it and had to explain that it was actually not just a headless bolt.

[Joe Flanagan]

I got it in. First I got a couple of 3/8 bolts and cut the heads off as suggested. Then I cut slots in the tops so they could be removed with a screwdriver and threaded them into the bell housing. I went ahead and slipped the gasket over these instead of trying to get it to stick to the face of the transmission. Then I very carefully adjusted the position of the transmission on the jack. Moved it forward a litte, checked the position, adjusted the throwout bearing, repeat, etc. When I got it so it was almost on the threaded rods, I got stuck. I couldn't move it any further. Then I followed Don's advice and got my head under the differential and shoved the transmission with my feet. What great advice. You can generate a lot of force that way. I got it to within an inch or less, then took the rear section in my hands and turned it, which told me I wasn't through the clutch disk. I turned it just a little, then shoved it and in it went.

I tightened everything up with grade 8 bolts and lock washers. One of the threaded rods I can't get out. For whatever reason it's stuck in its hole. I'll tackle that tomorrow. Sure am glad that's over and I hope I don't have to take it out again.

[Don Coatney]

I learned how to do that foot trick back in the 60's while working at the Truck Sales Processing Center for International Harvestor in Fort Wayne, Indiana. An old mechanic taught me a lesson for life. Later in my life I owned a 1600 series IH truck and I replaced the clutch in that truck by my self with no assistance using that foot/leg trick. As I was a young buck in those days I used armstrong power to lift the transmission into place. O to be young again!

[Joe Flanagan]

Well, now I've learned a lesson for life. I don't think I would have gotten it in otherwise. I've done clutch jobs on Japanese cars and have been able to use just my arms but this thing was a monster. It's weird because the R-10 is not that big.

So if I want to run my engine now, I guess I'll just have to make sure the transmission is in neutral. But could I shift through the gears with the engine running? There is no driveshaft installed yet. Would it be possible to check the operation of the transmission as it is now?

[suntennis]

As long as the drive shaft is not connected to the transmission, there will be no problem running the engine and shifting thru the gears. If the rear axle is supported by jack stands and the tires are a few inches off the the ground you could also run the engine, shift gears and shift into overdrive.

[Niel Hoback]

If there is no driveshaft, it doesn't matter if the wheels are on the ground or off. Vrooom, vroom to your hearts content.

[Jim Yergin]

Sure am glad that's over and I hope I don't have to take it out again.

I don't know how many times I have said the same thing. Unfortunately for me, too many times.

Congratulations Joe, another hurdle behind you. The transmission jack was worth the price wasn't it?

Jim Yergin

[P-12 Tommy]

You go Joe!

Tom

[Joe Flanagan]

Jim, yes it was. In the event I have to take it out again, I'll have to figure out a better way to do a few things. The way I located the jackstands was big pain in the neck, since they were constantly in my way. I also did this inside my garage because I didn't know how long it was going to take and I didn't want my car sitting on jackstands outside in the weather. So that in itself was a big problem because there is no room to move around in there. You guys with real garages, count your blessings.

[BobT-47P15]

Joe, glad you got that tranny in place.

Hope it works perfectly from now on............

[Joe Flanagan]

Thank you, Bob. I might run it over the weekend and see what it does. I'll have to remember to put gear oil in it first, though.

[Young Ed]

Thank you, Bob. I might run it over the weekend and see what it does. I'll have to remember to put gear oil in it first, though.

And remember there's 2 spots to fill!

[Joe Flanagan]

Yeah, Neil Riddle put a big yellow tag on the transmission when he sent it out saying that one quart goes in the front part and one quart in the back. I guess you just fill until the oil comes up level with the bottom of the filler hole, correct? And this reminds me of some discussion in the past about what to use as a lubricant. Is there a consensus on this, taking into consideration the fact that there are brass parts in there? I seem to recall some talk about modern lubricants being hard on some parts of a vintage transmission.

[DJ194950]

copied from borg warner r-10 maintainence manuel :

attached:

a gl-1 mineral oil is avail at napa and per others tractor supply houses that should match b.w.'s specs.

hope you can see copy, you may have to use zoom.

[Joe Flanagan]

I was tightening the bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing this afternoon and I stripped out two of the holes. The bolts are fine. It didn't take much to do this. They weren't very tight when all of a sudden they were spinning. Anyway, my thought is to use helicoils on them but I was wondering if I can do this without taking the transmission out. Seems like it ought to work. Only problem is that if I have to run a drill bit in there, I risk getting the shavings in the bell housing. Maybe that's not all that serious. What do you guys think?

[DJ194950]

are you using 7/16" bolts.?? easy to try using 3/8" they fit pretty good but pull out when tightened. if so, maybe just a tap to clean up will suffice.

just a thought, as both sizes are used attaching belhousing to block, i've put them in wrong there before.

progress!

good luck,

doug

[Joe Flanagan]

Thanks, Doug. I used 3/8 bolts. I suppose I could run a tap in there to see what that would do. I can't use a torque wrench in there because there isn't room. The top bolt on the drivers side won't take a socket because of its location. You have to use an open-end wrench.

[DJ194950]

actually when i put 3/8 bolts in holes that were supposed to be 7/16, i really didn't hurt anything. just replaced with correct size. give it a try. if they go in -fine. if not chase with tap. that driver side top bolt is damn near impossible anyway you go about it. i used a 5/8" socket with a 3/8 drive with 1/4" adaptor,1/4 universal, 2 - 6" extensions to tighten bolt.torqued with wrench last bit.

remember it too well! hope you attached wires to backup light sender if you have one your planning to use.

if not, your in for more fun when you hook it up. that i also know too well!

keep up the good work!

doug

[Joe Flanagan]

Well, maybe I pulled a stupid on this one. Thanks for the tip. I'll try the 7/16 tap. I'm glad I'm not the only one who's had trouble with that upper bolt. Man, I was out there cussing like a sailor.

All I can say about the backup light sender is, No I didn't and Oh, crap.

[Don Coatney]

Man, I was out there cussing like a sailor.

Please share and educate us! I always like to increase my database!

[Joe Flanagan]

Somehow I think it would all sound familiar to you, Don. I do have a few favorites that get repeated in extreme moments.