Allan Faust Posted March 29, 2007 Report Posted March 29, 2007 Yep, the motor is headed for the machine shop... they are picking up the head, block and crank for the "estimate"..... I estimate that it will be expensive...... Allan Quote
Allan Faust Posted April 7, 2007 Author Report Posted April 7, 2007 Well, first news..... crank is "well balanced" and with a little spit n polish, everything will be fine.... will stay standard size for the bearings...... machine shop is doing it during "lost time" to save me some cash..... (I'm not in a hurry....) Allan Quote
John Mulders Posted April 7, 2007 Report Posted April 7, 2007 That is good "first" news Allan! John Quote
Allan Faust Posted April 7, 2007 Author Report Posted April 7, 2007 You aren't kidding John..... less work to be done (and paid for) is better. I know that the block will have to be drilled, but other than that.... its up in the air.... Anyone got an extra pair of exhaust and intake valves for sale? I purchased a set of 4 of each (NOS) for $24 and am looking for another pair as inexpensive as possible..... (only 4 won't work....) Allan Quote
Allan Faust Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Posted April 11, 2007 Well, the damage report is in...... $760 for the engine work, which includes putting in valve guides, cam bearings, drilling of the cylinders, cleaning, frost plugs, planing the head and block, etc.... I was told I need pistons and rings (have eh Pat???), rod n main bearings (std), cam bearings/bushings and standard valve guides..... and I've got the valves as well, which will be changed.... all in all, not too bad.... whaddya think.??? Allan Quote
Merle Coggins Posted April 11, 2007 Report Posted April 11, 2007 Yup, not bad. That's around what I paid for similar work, including new pistons and rings. Although I didn't take them the crank, and I installed the cam bearings myself. You didn't mention wrist pin bushings. Are those being changed? Merle Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 11, 2007 Report Posted April 11, 2007 Allan; There is a procedure for installing valve guides. Hopefully someone (GTK where are you?) will chime in here. Quote
greg g Posted April 11, 2007 Report Posted April 11, 2007 Also one group (can't remember which) goes in upside down in relation to the others. I believe one end of the guid is rounded and the other is flat. One way for intakes the other for exhaust. Quote
Allan Faust Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Posted April 11, 2007 Yup, not bad. That's around what I paid for similar work, including new pistons and rings. Although I didn't take them the crank, and I installed the cam bearings myself.You didn't mention wrist pin bushings. Are those being changed? Merle They are most likely included Merle..... the parts are extra (other than the frost plugs) but I know that they guy I"m dealing with is thorough.... Allan Quote
Allan Faust Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Posted April 11, 2007 Allan;There is a procedure for installing valve guides. Hopefully someone (GTK where are you?) will chime in here. I definitely want to hear about it, to make sure that it is noted once the engine gets started. He's got my service manual with him (dunno if it mentions it) but I'll let him know any "particularities" that anyone mentions to watch out for..... Allan Quote
Allan Faust Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Posted April 11, 2007 Also one group (can't remember which) goes in upside down in relation to the others. I believe one end of the guid is rounded and the other is flat. One way for intakes the other for exhaust. That one I've heard before (can't remember which either) but I'll make sure that that is noted as well.... Allan Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 11, 2007 Report Posted April 11, 2007 That one I've heard before (can't remember which either) but I'll make sure that that is noted as well....Allan Allan; Shoot GTK an e-mail as he has the answer. Important to do this! Quote
Allan Faust Posted April 12, 2007 Author Report Posted April 12, 2007 Don and Greg, On the main part of the site; Installing Valve Guides If you are doing a valve job or full overhaul of your flathead six pay close attention to how the valve guides are re-installed. In the factory service manual a one liner warns exhaust valve guides are mounted reverse from the intakes valve guides (P15 Service Manual. Page 149. It is not even mentioned in the D24 Service Manual !). For exhaust valves install the counterbored ends upward. This provides better heat shielding. Intake guides are mounted counterbore down. Most machine shops are not familiar with these engines anymore and you need to warn them about the correct installation procedure. Quote
greg g Posted April 12, 2007 Report Posted April 12, 2007 Some more info from my manual. Replacement guides are sold with under sized bores and need to be reamed to the valves. clearences should be .001 to.003 for intake, and .003 to .005 for exhaust. Is says to mic your stems and ream accordingly. It also says to install the guides to a depth of 7/8 in below the cylinder block top edge. then it says the bore should be .342 to .343 for intake and .344 to .345 for exhaust. Quote
47heaven Posted April 12, 2007 Report Posted April 12, 2007 Well, first news..... crank is "well balanced" and with a little spit n polish, everything will be fine.... will stay standard size for the bearings...... machine shop is doing it during "lost time" to save me some cash..... (I'm not in a hurry....)Allan Watch out for that "lost time" term. Those guys are usually busy. Plan to wait a long while. Maybe you'll get the engine back in time for retirement. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted April 13, 2007 Report Posted April 13, 2007 So the rebuilder isn't real familiar with the flatheads ? Tell him to replace the water distribution tube . Quote
Allan Faust Posted April 13, 2007 Author Report Posted April 13, 2007 The water dist tube will be changed.... That was one of the first things I mentioned. Allan Quote
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