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Posted

Has anyone went to an electric fuel pump. Since last September I blew the diaphram out of 2 fuel pumps on my semi and just last week one on my camper. Someone at the car show said that the new fuel eats the old style rubber in the diaphrams.

Anymore input would be appreciated.

Todd B

Posted

Todd,

I had that problem last year in my 48 Plymouth. In August 05 I installed a Bellows 6 volt electric fuel pump in my coupe. In July 06 the diaphram went out and the pump flooded the engine real bad. I had completely bypassed the old mechanical fuel pump on the installation. After that happened, I pulled the electric pump and bought a new mechanical pump. So far no problems with the mechanical one. The manufacturer did say that some of the new fuels will eat the rubber. So........it all depends on where you live and what type of reformulated gas you're using. Sounds like you are having the same problem.

Posted

Todd I've heard the same thing. Instead of going elec though I just rebuilt my pumps with modern kits. Kits are available from antique auto cellar.

Posted

Todd,

I've been running an electric pump in my 41 Plymouth sedan for the last 7 yrs or so with only one problem. The pump died one day and I wasn't able to figure out why. I called the folks I bought it from and they said that was the first one they had ever had that failed. Sent me a brand new one at no cost. This was from 5th Ave. Auto Electric in Kansas. Since that episode, no problems whatsoever.:)

I also put one in my 52 B3FA and it works fine feeding the 318 poly. Haven't gotten it out on the road yet but it runs fine.

I probably need to install one of the fuel shut-off switches that were discussed a while back.

Posted
Todd,

I've been running an electric pump in my 41 Plymouth sedan for the last 7 yrs or so with only one problem. The pump died one day and I wasn't able to figure out why. I called the folks I bought it from and they said that was the first one they had ever had that failed. Sent me a brand new one at no cost. This was from 5th Ave. Auto Electric in Kansas. Since that episode, no problems whatsoever.:)

I also put one in my 52 B3FA and it works fine feeding the 318 poly. Haven't gotten it out on the road yet but it runs fine.

I probably need to install one of the fuel shut-off switches that were discussed a while back.

As mentioned, I took mine off due to the type of gas we use around here. Right now it's in a cabinet out in the garage. I did rebuild it after pulling it, plus I have another extra rebuild kit for it. If anyone wants it they can have it and the rebuild kit for $15, plus postage. Read my other post before you say I'll take it though.

Posted
I've read your other posts Norm. I'll TAKE IT.

Reg

Good buy Reg;

My unstable schedule puts me in San Frincisco sometime this spring or early summer. If things work out I will rent a car and head your way.

Posted

I've had two cheapie Auto Zone pumps fail. Have the last new replacement here on the shelf - 12 volt unit. Went to a Walbro bellows type from JCW. It's doing just fine so far. What's hard for all of us to kinow is how long these things must operate before we know if they're going to fail or not.

You can't measure a stink until it's completely dead . . . . . .:P

Posted

Does anyone run BOTH a mechanical and an electric fuel pump on the same car? I've seen a design that looks like it will allow each to operate separately OR simultaneously. I think the preferred use would be to turn the electric pump on at startup, turn it off, and then operate using only the mechanical. It would seem that a setup like this would provide a potentially important backup fuel pump option.

Posted

I had just this setup on a 47 1/2 ton 15 years ago. It worked great but I don't remember how it was all hooked up.

Posted

I would think you could just tee them together at or near the carb. Each pump has to have some kind of check valve to keep pressure from backfeeding into the pump from the discharge side, otherwise it wouldn't be able to pump or maintain a pressure. And like Johnny says, put the electric pump on a switch so it only runs when you want/need it.

Sounds like a good idea. I may have to try it.

Merle

Posted
Does anyone run BOTH a mechanical and an electric fuel pump on the same car? I've seen a design that looks like it will allow each to operate separately OR simultaneously. I think the preferred use would be to turn the electric pump on at startup, turn it off, and then operate using only the mechanical. It would seem that a setup like this would provide a potentially important backup fuel pump option.

Yes, many people run with both pumps. The one I'll be sending Reg can be done that way too. Reg, if I can find that instruction sheet for the pump the setup is in there for both ways. When I had the pump on my car I was only using the electric pump. Blocked off the mechanical pump hole in the block and bypassed it all together.

When I bought the electric pump it was because my original mechanical pump died anyway. After having the problem with the electric pump I put a new mechanical pump on. It works just as good for me. Just pump the pedal once or twice after the car has sat for a month and it starts right up. If the car just sits overnight, don't even have to pump once before it starts. With the electric pump you do not need to pump the pedal before starting the car. A lot of people just use the electric pump when starting the car, then switch it off after the car starts. Then the mechanical pump takes over completely. You just install a toggle cutoff switch in the pump hot wire under the dash to turn it on and off.

Posted
I would think you could just tee them together at or near the carb. Each pump has to have some kind of check valve to keep pressure from backfeeding into the pump from the discharge side, otherwise it wouldn't be able to pump or maintain a pressure. And like Johnny says, put the electric pump on a switch so it only runs when you want/need it.

Sounds like a good idea. I may have to try it.

Merle

Merle, I believe the instructions said if you want to use both, you install the electric pump in the line before the mechanical pump. To use the electric pump by itself you just bypass the mechanical one altogether and put a block off plate where the mechanical pump bolts to the engine. Or, you can leave the old mechanical pump in place and block off the intake side of the pump and leave it hanging there.

Posted

I'm sure that would work too. However, if your diaphram rips and floods the engine with gas, like you said yours did, then the electric pump would also pump the gas into the crankcase. That wouldn't make for a good backup system. I may have to do some testing. The parts truck that I just picked up has an electric pump on it and the mechanical pump is still there, but not connected. Hmm...

The electric pump would solve your misterious disappearing gas problem, Reg. Turn the key, let the pump refill the float bowl, and go. ;)

Merle

Posted
I'm sure that would work too. However, if your diaphram rips and floods the engine with gas, like you said yours did, then the electric pump would also pump the gas into the crankcase. That wouldn't make for a good backup system. I may have to do some testing. The parts truck that I just picked up has an electric pump on it and the mechanical pump is still there, but not connected. Hmm...

The electric pump would solve your misterious disappearing gas problem, Reg. Turn the key, let the pump refill the float bowl, and go. ;)

Merle

Merle, You are correct, that's what happened to me. However, regardless of which way you set up the pump, you should always install a cutoff switch. Even if only running the one electric pump. That's in case of an accident, etc. so you can shut the pump off with the switch. I had mine wired direct to the ignition switch with a fuse. Then between the fuse and pump I had the toggle switch under the dash to turn the pump on and off. Regardless of the type of electric pump you use, you should have that switch in between.

My brother in law has a different kind of electric pump under the car he uses to start his 36 Ford with, then shuts it down with the toggle switch once started. His pumps only last a couple of years or so too on that car. However, he never drives that car except around the block once or twice a year, if that. So that could be why his pump last longer. He has had to replace it too. The gas we burn around here is terrible on that stuff. He does drive his 38 Ford around quite a bit in the nice weather, however that car only has the mechanical pump on it.

Posted

hey guys...note there are 2 different kindsnow. the diaphragm type and the solid state piston type. my solid state one is running smoothly for a year. the other died in a month..(.i had a spare but sold it and didnt use it.)

bill

Guest Dave Claussen
Posted

Maybe I'm not following the gist here, but wouldn't newly manufactured fuel pumps be made with materials (specifically diaphrams) that would be resistant to failure with the new formula fuels, even if those pumps were for older model engines? Is this some form of planned failure on the manufacturers part to sell more fuel pumps? Why in the world would they not make the pumps to last more than just a few hundred miles if they know the new fuels affect them adversely? Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but it sounds like a conspiracy to me.

Posted

Dave the modern mechanical pumps are ok. I've had the same one on my 46 pickup since 02 and its had plenty of 10% ethanol gas run through it.

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