Headlight Switch Knob Removal?

[Tom Skinner]

Gents,

I need advice. How does one go about removing the Light Switch "Knob" off of

the stem of a light switch?

The bottom of the Knob has a small slot - that is all - I don't want to tear anything up. The 1942-1948 Chrysler Service Manual shows a special slotted wrench/tool to remove a Light Switch, it shows a slotted wrench/tool much like one one would use to remove an oxygen Sensor on a newer vehicle, however this is not held on by a nut in the back but some kind of "Collar" on the front/dash side.

This is a 1948 Chrysler Royal. Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

I don't want to force it off or ignorantly remove/damage it as the chrome and Knob are in great shape. I'll try to get back with a picture soon unless its something simple that I am missing/ignorant to.

Tom Skinner

Huntersville, NC

[Plymouthy Adams]

the knob has a clip inserted that has a hole in the end that is srping loaded and locks the knob to the shaft..it is gently depressed with the flat of a small screwdriver toward the base of the knob itself to release the tension of the spring steel hole..be careful to compress it only the little needed to release the knob and not break the tempered steel clip..once that is broken..you pretty much stuck unuseable unless you drill the knob,,break a modern knob for the brass knurl insert and epoxy that to the old knob..

[desoto1939]

When looking at the bottom of the knob there is a small slot. Insert a small screwdriver blade like a jewerls screwdriver that you use on glassess.

pull the blade towards the fron of the knob. There isa built in spring or metal clip that holds the knob onto the shaft. When pulling forward you are relieving the tension on the spring and then you should beable to pull the knob off the shaft.

The outer chrome nut has two slots there is a slotted tool that goes over the shaft and into the slots turn counter clockwise and the mounting nut comes off and then you can pull the switch out of the dash.

The choke is different. There should be a nut in teh back of the entire unit that holds the choke pull assembly. you have to undo the nit then pull the entire assembly out.

This is how the knobs are on my 39 Desoto.

Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

[Tom Skinner]

Tim,

Thank You its getting late so I'll try tomorrow when I'm rested and patient.

I can't see that good anymore even with glasses.

My son and I tried once with a small screw driver thinking there was a tiny set screw there with no sucess.

I/we will try again tomorrow night

Tom

[Jerry Roberts]

The knobs that I have seen which had the very small slot in the bottom were removed by inserting a small pointed object , perhaps a jewelers screwdriver in the slot . Pull gently on the knob and push the screwdriver forward or back . I don't remember which way to push the screwdriver .

[Tom Skinner]

Rich,

Thank You also!

The Collar is slotted in two opposing places as you say.

Thanks again for your help.

Tom

[Tom Skinner]

Well once again you fellows came through.

The Knob and Collar came off as you'all described to a T.

Unfortunately the switch I bought on ebay didn't work at all.

I'm trying for a refund.

Old one back in only my front Markers not working everything else is in order.

Thanks Again!

Tom

[Niel Hoback]

Check your bulbs?

[Tom Skinner]

Gents, und Maidchen,

I am aware that the markers only come on the the first position.

I must have a grounding issue at the markers.

By way of reference to a Gentleman that is an Outstanding Ebayer,

his handle is "Pugrudy".

He refunded my Switch that did not work on ebay with no questions asked.

I would highly reccommend him on any ebay deal as it is getting tougher to find honest people in this world. In a word he is a First Class Citizen.

I still have to correct my electrical problem (Marker lights in front don't work) however its nice to know honest people still conduct business these Days.

Hats off to Pugrudy he is a Hail Thee Well Type of Fellow.

Tom Skinner

Huntersville, NC

[Happy 46R]

Sorry I am really late to this thread...by about 9 years but wanted to say as a newer owner and member the thread was really helpful to me while doing some work on my car. Thought I would help out by adding a picture or two showing the clip. It is basically a piece of spring steal  with a hole in it folded over the shaft of the switch and anchored to the knob. The outward tension of the spring steal bites into the shaft preventing pulling the know off. By pushing gently on the outer skirt of the spring steal the tension is released and the knob comes off. Thank you for all the great information contained in this forum; lots of talented and knowledgeable folks out there.

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

jumper T to P on the switch...if your bulbs and wiring are good the front lights should work along with the rear lights....you will experience a bit heavier draw of current on T at this time which is over the rating of the switch most likely or else why did they split them from the get go....if they light you have a switch problem....if not...check elsewhere in your wiring/components....read with VOM also should be adequate...also these push in ferrule/bullet connectors have locking devices within the barrel on the switch...ensure these are not corroded and causing a voltage drop...

the cars of this era also have a front terminal block on the radiator support...could be miswired here, poor connection etc etc...

[Tom Skinner]

Wow, I found my problem to be wiring issue not a switch issue and made the repair 9 years ago to fix my Headlights.

I was a youngster of 55 back then L.O.L.

Thanks for the memories and new pictures of the release clip in the back of the knob