Alshere59 Posted April 6, 2011 Report Posted April 6, 2011 Don't even think about over heating the shock. And damping oil cavitation. Well I wasn't until now.. Thanks and sweet dreams. grumble grumble. LOL Quote
louie the fly Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Posted April 6, 2011 When you ask about the bottom mount for a 50 plymouth its an L1 or 5/8th. The rest are given in the earlier chart. You have two vehicles so not sure which you are asking about. I think it's Hughforrest that has the 2 cars, but that's OK. Mine is a 54 Dodge, pretty much the same as the Canadian models of the era. From what I've seen the suspension is all the same though. Thanks for the info. Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 20, 2011 Report Posted May 20, 2011 Was it this thread that blueskies offered to sell his shocks and frame mounts? I searched for his posting but did not find it. He may have deleted the posting as I bought them. So I will be doing this modification at some time in the future. Today the new upper shock mounts arrived. For those who have done this is the Monroe 555004 a good part number for a P-15? Quote
Jim Yergin Posted May 20, 2011 Report Posted May 20, 2011 Don, Are you using the Plymouth mounts that bolt in? If so, I used Gabriel 81676 shocks on my P12. Jim Yergin Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 20, 2011 Report Posted May 20, 2011 Thanks Jim; Here is what I was able to find on the Gabriel Gabriel Guardian 81676 - 11.12 collapsed, 17.73 extended Here is what I was able to find on the Monroe 555004 GasMagnum Technical dimensions: Compressed length- 11.250. Extended length- 17.875. Travel - 6.625 inches. The bolt holes at each end are 5/8. Cost for both is around twenty bucks each. What I dont yet know is how much travel I need. Quote
HughForrest Posted June 1, 2011 Report Posted June 1, 2011 Don, that looks like an RV replacement shock. Might be set up internally for a much heavier vehicle. I used a shock that was originally intended for a Chevy full-size pickup. I might also have a set of Pro Shocks to sell if you still need some. Quote
Frank Elder Posted June 1, 2011 Report Posted June 1, 2011 I have seen chevy blazer [fullsize] mentioned on here also.... Quote
james curl Posted June 2, 2011 Report Posted June 2, 2011 Don, I would think if one was to jack the front of the car up until the front wheels were off of the ground the snubber on the upper A frame should be contacting the pad on the frame preventing it going any lower. Now measure from the top of the lower snubber to the pad on the frame where it contacts to prevent any excessive upward travel and that should be your total travel requirement. Next record that measurement and lower the car and move it forward or backward to settle the suspension, now measure the distance from the top of the lower snubber to the pad it hits and you will have difference in travel at rest. Quote
YukonJack Posted June 3, 2011 Report Posted June 3, 2011 Hey Don, just wondering about your progress. What shocks did you use. I looked online and the Monroe shocks look a lot stouter, larger in diameter. Got my shock mounts in the mail yesterday. Hope to install soon. The Gabriel 81676 looks like it might be good. Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 7, 2011 Report Posted June 7, 2011 Hey Don, just wondering about your progress. What shocks did you use. I looked online and the Monroe shocks look a lot stouter, larger in diameter. Got my shock mounts in the mail yesterday. Hope to install soon. The Gabriel 81676 looks like it might be good. Jack; Sorry for the late response but the reason being I have made no progress. I do need to move forward on this project. Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 7, 2011 Report Posted June 7, 2011 Thanks to Jack I got motivated. Others have said that a backing plate is the way to go. I may have jumped the gun but bench work is much easier for me than laying on my back under my car. So this afternoon I did some bench work. I pulled out a hunk of hinge plate steel from under my bench and started making backing plates. These hinge plates have a couple of extra holes in them but for my purpose it should not matter. First thing was to devide and split the plate in the middle. Then I laid each split plate out and for reference and marked them. Next I dug out my killer drill and drilled them. This drill was left to me by my dad. It is a gear reduction drill motor with a final output of 550 RPM's and enough torque to lift my balony a$$ off the ground if it happens to "catch". Drilling went well and I bolted the brackets to the plates. Next step will be to trim the fat off brackets to insure they fit inside the frame. Hay Merle, You forgot to send all the lock washers with these brackets when you sent them to Blueskies:D Just kidding as I will use all new hardware to include shoulder bolts when I complete the install. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 Wow, those brackets hae been all over the country. I hope they work out well for you Don. Merle Quote
YukonJack Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 Hey Don, Glad I was able to motivate you. I need a little motivation myself sometimes (ok, most times ) This is an update I've wanted to do for a while, and kept checking back every day for new info. Good luck. Quote
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