55 Fargo Posted January 29, 2011 Report Posted January 29, 2011 Hey, how many of you having leaking differentials right now. Mine has been leaking since I put my car on the road about 4 years ago, she leaks about a pint or so in a year. The main source of the leak is the pinion seal, I have anew seal, just need to install it soon beofre spring thaw. The breather hole is fine, and is not plugged. The pumpkin lekas a bit too, on the bottom, I have had this out, and when I re-installed it, I had no gasket so used only Black RTV, I know have a gasket, but am not looking forward to pulling the axles an installing the gasket. I have no idea if I will need a speedy sleave or not, will find out. I may farm this job out toa trusted local small 1 man shop, not convinced yet. I figure my engine leaks a bit oil, so does the diff, is this just par for the course on these old Mopars...... PS the diff is dusty, it only takes few rides down my gravel road in summer to coat this diff, and the oil is flying arounfd the pinion flange, it is shiny black paint under the oil and dust.... Quote
Oldguy48 Posted January 29, 2011 Report Posted January 29, 2011 I would consider this "rustproofing". Seriously though, after I scraped off all the crud around my P15 differential, the sheet metal was pristine. The buid-up of oil, dirt, grease, etc. provided an excellent barrier of protection from the elements. Not my idea of rustproofing, but it certainly was effective. Quote
Tom Skinner Posted January 29, 2011 Report Posted January 29, 2011 I agree a little leakage will not hurt. It is after all a protective barrier. Quote
Guest P15-D24 Posted January 29, 2011 Report Posted January 29, 2011 WIll need a torque gun to get the nut off. You can pull the old seal with a slide hammer. The permanent fix is get a speed sleeve for u joint hub so the new seal has a good sealing surface. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Posted January 29, 2011 WIll need a torque gun to get the nut off. You can pull the old seal with a slide hammer. The permanent fix is get a speed sleeve for u joint hub so the new seal has a good sealing surface. Thanx, I figure it is not a real tough job, but know doubt there may be a few choice words during the repair process.... Quote
DJ194950 Posted January 29, 2011 Report Posted January 29, 2011 for leaks arround pumpkin: drain oil. loosen nuts or bolts holding it in, but do not remove all way out. move pumpkin outward, will not come out much as axles stop much movement. take some medium thickness cotton string from your old kite. soak it in permatex sealer. i like aviation type. make big mess on hands. wrap string on outside of bolts(studs) make about 3-4 complete wraps. tighten pumpkin back in. no more leak. clean hands if possible. oh ya, refill rearend oil. learned this back about late 60's from a man who had forgot by then than i know even now. but maybe that's not saying too much. at least i remember something he showed me. enjoy doug Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Posted January 29, 2011 for leaks arround pumpkin:drain oil. loosen nuts or bolts holding it in, but do not remove all way out. move pumpkin outward, will not come out much as axles stop much movement. take some medium thickness cotton string from your old kite. soak it in permatex sealer. i like aviation type. make big mess on hands. wrap string on outside of bolts(studs) make about 3-4 complete wraps. tighten pumpkin back in. no more leak. clean hands if possible. oh ya, refill rearend oil. learned this back about late 60's from a man who had forgot by then than i know even now. but maybe that's not saying too much. at least i remember something he showed me. enjoy doug I was thinking of something like this, I am wondering if I could slip a gasket between the pumpkin and diff housing too, I would have to slice it at the top, then apply permatex, and slip into place, this would be followed up with the trick you just mentioned. Whaddya Yall think? Quote
40phil41 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Posted January 30, 2011 Hi Fred, I recommend that you grease in between your leaf springs. They look very dry and rusty in the photo. You'll get a better ride and minimize the likelihood of spring failure. Phil Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Posted January 30, 2011 Hi Fred,I recommend that you grease in between your leaf springs. They look very dry and rusty in the photo. You'll get a better ride and minimize the likelihood of spring failure. Phil Thanx Phil, I have been thinking the same thing, how should it be done, these springs are wrapped, well mostly wrapped.....Fred Quote
greg g Posted April 6, 2011 Report Posted April 6, 2011 I have a pinion seal leak I need to address. I understand the procedure but, stupid question, does the torque on the pinion nut have to be reset to adjust the gear lash after the seal is replaced??? I need to get mine attended to and I will proably take it out to have it done, as I ams starting to enforce my rule of mechanics: The closer something is to the ground the less likely I will work on it. Quote
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