Door Window Removal - Revisited

[Barry Maxwell]

I am working on a '51 B3C and trying to get the door window removed. I used the search funtion and have read everything I can find regarding removal. The threads and posts (Merle, Grey Beard, and others) have been very helpful.

Thus far I have removed the front window channel and run, and the wing vent window. Unfortunately, the vent pivot pin is sheared off at the base of the window frame (probably many years ago). I have removed the pin nut, spring, two stops and washers in preparation for possible welding onto the frame.

Given the proximity to the glass, however, I am not sure that it can be successfully welded.

All the above is background. At this point I am stymied as to how to remove the two rubber bumper buggers and the weatherstrip at the bottom of the window opening. Once they are removed, I can remove the two spring clips at the bottom channel and get the glass out from the top. I can then remove the 4-5 screws that hold the regulator and get that out in the bottom opening.

Question 1 - How are those rubber bumpers and weatherstrip removed? I can dig and pry, but I am afraid that I will bugger something up, including the top of the glass.

Question 2 - Would you folks try and weld the pivot pin to the frame? If not, does anyone have a wing vent and retainer that they would be willing to sell?

Question 3 - Roberts sells the wiskered window run and the vent window weatherstrip. Although I will probably buy the weatherstrip from Steele (at a much higher cost), I am wondering about the window run. Is it good?

That's it for now. I am sure that I will have more questions. I always do. Thank you for any help you can provide.

Barry Maxwell

[Merle Coggins]

The rubber bumpers are slipped into a slot in the upper door edge. If you look carefully at one end of the slot there is a larger opening. The bumpers are supposed to be able to slide out through the opening but they're probably too stiff to work with easily. I thought I had some pics of them but I can't seem to find them. If you damage them getting them out, new ones are available through Restoration Specialties http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%20ebook.pdf.

The fuzzy strip is held in with 3 clips. One in the center and one near each end. You should be able to get behind it with a thin putty knife or something like that and pry it away from the door. The clips should pop our of the holes in the door lip so that you can remove it.

I got my window channel material from Roberts and the rubber weatherstipping from Steele. But Restoration Specialties is also a good source for things like that.

Which vent window is bad? I think I gave my spare driver's side to Brad Schmidt but if you need a passenger side I may still have one of those.

Merle

[Barry Maxwell]

Merle:

Thank you for you rapid response. I went back to the bumpers and got one to slide back and forth. Finally got it out. Was not able to slide the other one. Long story short, I finally got what is visable out but left the rest of it in the slot. Bummer! I checked my Rest. Spec. catalog but couldn't find the bumper. I will check it again when I have more time.

I see the three fuzzy strip clips. I will work on them in the morning. Does that strip really have to come out? Is there a source for a replacement?

The wing vent with the sheared pivot pin is on the drivers side. When I get to the passenger side door, I may find the same problem, although I hope not.

An unrelated question: Do you have a good source for the foam filled windlace that goes between the front fender and the cowl and where the wheel well extensions meet the toe boards? The diameter of the stuff in the Rest. Spec. catalog is much less than the needed 1/2".

Thanks again for you help. Much appreciated.

Barry

[Merle Coggins]

The link I posted should take you to the catalog page with the bumpers. Look at the bottom of the page. The Chrysler one, I believe, is the one I used. It's not exactly like the ones that came out, but it was close enough for me.

I think I got my fuzzy strip from Roberts. As I recall it was a 6 foot length that I cut to fit. I had to reuse the clips from the old strips. However, I think Resto Specalists has clips like that too. Go to their site and download the entire catalog. It's worth the browsing.

The windlace stuff you refer to is difficult to find. I don't remember where I got what I used, I think it may have been Roberts. What I used was all rubber with a hollow roll. I'd have to browse my Roberts catalog again to find it.

Merle

[Dave72dt]

That windlace stuff between the cowl and fender has been replaced by a couple members with stuff from a F1 Ford from Dennis Carpenter. I think something else is used on the fender extension, maybe fender welting. nothing left of mine but a few staples so I really don't know what was there.

[Barry Maxwell]

Merle: Thank you for the information. I got the window sweep (fuzzy strip) out and found the replacement (8' length) in Roberts catalog. I removed the spring clips and window run (also available from Roberts) and got the window out, together with the regulator. I found the bumper you suggested in Rest. Spec. catalog and it looks like it will work fine. I missed it the first time through the Bumper section. So, with the exception of the sheared vent window pin (it didn't shear, the original weld broke) and the weatherstriping on the hinge side of the door, I think I am all set. Once I get to the passenger side door and determine whether I have a broken weld there also, I will take the pin and window to my welding shop to see what he thinks. Although I weld (after a fashion), I certainly won't attempt it myself.

Dave: I looked briefly at the Carpenter web site, but couldn't find anything. However, I really didn't spend enough time to do a thorough search. Then, I looked at the Roberts catalog and found T27A - Door windlace for two doors @ $35 for a kit. The drawing looks like the right stuff (depending on the diameter of the core), but I will check with them.

Thank you guys for your help. The second door should be a snap. Famous last words.

Barry

Barry

[Dave72dt]

Part # 7C-16068 for a 48-52 Ford F series pickup/ Dennis Carpenter/ fender to cab seal.

[HanksB3B]

The part itself is sealed neoprene (like a wetsuit). Not my first choice which would be vulcanized rubber, but it works. I chose to use the part with the smaller of the two profile ends exposed, as I thought it looked more like the original piece. You'll also notice that I attached the Hood Lace with pop-rivets and even drilled and extra hole in in the cab on the high point of the radius The spiral-cut nails may have worked well enough to get the truck into the showroom and into the owners hands, but after 2 or 3 hood lace replacements, my truck's nails wouldn't hold and I didn't want to crunch a nail into my hood.

This can also be of help:

Hank

[Merle Coggins]

Dave, I believe he is looking for the stuff on the inner fender extensions where it meets the toe board of the cab. I seem to have misplaced my Roberts catalog and I can't find what I used on their web site.

The piece Dave refers to is for the upper fender to cab cowl seal. Roberts offers one but it is a bit small. It'll work but it's not quite like the original. The one from Carpenter appartly is a better fit according to some.

Merle

[HanksB3B]

Looks like 1 number and 2 arrows indicated it was all one piece. At the top I used the Ford Fender Filler and I used fender welt for the vertical piece where the fender meets the cab (if that what is meant by the "toe board of the cab").

Hank

[Dave72dt]

I interpreted the original request to be for both places. The Ford piece for the top and suggested the fender welt for the vertical, knowing how close the gap is between the fender and cab side.

[Barry Maxwell]

Dave, I believe he is looking for the stuff on the inner fender extensions where it meets the toe board of the cab. I seem to have misplaced my Roberts catalog and I can't find what I used on their web site.

The piece Dave refers to is for the upper fender to cab cowl seal. Roberts offers one but it is a bit small. It'll work but it's not quite like the original. The one from Carpenter appartly is a better fit according to some.

Merle

I believe Merle is correct. I ordered what I called "fender filler" from Carpenter (7C-16068) on 12/27 but it has not arrived yet. I THINK what I am getting is a pair of rubber pieces approx. 12-13" long that install (with split rivets) about horizontally between the upper edge of the fenders and cowl. I think that I got that lead from one of the archived threads that I found.

The windlace that I am now looking for are vertical pieces of 1/2" diameter foam filled material (about 24" long) with an attachment strip (with split rivets) that goes between the rear of the fender and the cowl (I think that is what it is called). It looks like the stuff on page 30 of the Roberts catalog. I have not checked with them yet.

Barry

P.S. Now I am really confused. Two more posts came in while I was keying this response. I am going to post this anyway and try to sort it all out later. Thanks for all the activity. I love this hobby!

[Dennis_MN]

When I was hunting for windlace, I was told that there was none left and the manufacturing was to be no more. This was from a source in Coon Rapids, MN called Classic Auto Supplies.

So I went to the hardware store and bought some weatherstripping with a 1/4" bead of foam sewed on one side. I pop riveted this on the little mud plates and put them where they belong. No one will ever see this where they are located. I also used pop rivets on the fender filler stuff. I didn't have a proper tool for that stupid split rivet.

[DollyDodge]

Back to the drivers door window. I am a bit confused by what I have seen in my searches and this string as to what is needed and where to get all that is needed for the door windows. I think I know what to get and where to get it except for:

1) I'm not sure where to get he channel that is on the back rear and top of the door that the glass rides up and down in, or even what to ask for when talking to distributors

2) Regarding the metal strip that is on the front side of the glass, how is it held on the glass, what do I need to have to put it back together?

Santa brought me new front windows and a drivers window from Classic Flat Glass made in Placerville, CA. Now I get to install them.

[HanksB3B]

Roberts Motor Parts carries just about everything you'll need to restore your Door Glass.

Hank

[DollyDodge]

Thanks, I'll give him a call. I call there so much they know me by name now. I just like to sound simi intelligent when I ask for parts

[HanksB3B]

Bet the Sierras are looking mighty nice these days.

Got Pics?

Hank

[DollyDodge]

Yes there is a ton of snow on the mountains from the last series of storms. I don't have any pics on this computer, but will try and get some.

[DollyDodge]

I got my driver's side window out. Where can I get the material that is in channel at the bottom of the window? Mine feels almost like it is leather, it certainly isn't rubber.

[Barry Maxwell]

Where can I get the material that is in channel at the bottom of the window? Mine feels almost like it is leather, it certainly isn't rubber.

I am not sure what "the channel at the bottom of the window" refers to. You might use the terminolgy used in the parts diagram several posts down from HandB3B. I have recently bought all the weatherstripping, runs, and bumpers, from Roberts or Rest. Spec. (bumpers) but have not installed them yet. I am, however, far from an expert on this since I required Forum help on my doors.

[Young Ed]

I got my driver's side window out. Where can I get the material that is in channel at the bottom of the window? Mine feels almost like it is leather, it certainly isn't rubber.

Are you talking about the glass setting tape? Its almost a tar like stuff that any glass shop should be able to provide.

[DollyDodge]

Yes I was refering to the glass setting tape (just learned that name this morning after I made this post) that goes on the channel pn 23-09-52. I can't find the tar material that you and VPW said was the original material. Our local glass shops (only 2) don't have any. Would the rubber/cork glass setting tape work? If you know of a supplier for the tar product, I would rather use it but I can't find any online.

[Young Ed]

There is a guy in the 39-47 dodge truck group that uses autobody seam sealer to set his windows. Comes in a caulk tube. He says it hardens enough to keep water out of the channels yet you can get it apart later if needed. I've never tried it personally but it could be a good option for you.

[DollyDodge]

That is the same stuff the guy at VPW said he uses. I may end up going that way. I am holding out for the setting tape though.

[Young Ed]

The other reason i'd consider it is the channels are spring steel and after ~60 years they don't always have that much spring left in them