Oil bath air filter question

[Mario Loya B1B]

I am in the process reconditioning an oil bath air filter I recently picked up. Our original owners manuals for these trucks recommended soaking the filter in kerosene. Unfortunately I have only been able to find kerosene in 5 gallon containers (much more than I will ever need). I think I remember reading somewhere that other solvents can be used. Gasoline was mentioned. Actually it recommended "white gasoline". What is white gasoline? Can regular unleaded gas be used? And is there a better option than these two?

[Norm's Coupe]

White gas is like kerosene used for heating. (Heating Oil). Back in the 50's we had to use White Gas in our 2 cycle lawnmore. Around here there are few gas stations that also sell Kerosene at the pump, just like gas. You do need a blue container for it though. I go to a farm store for my kerosene that also has a gas station. That said, you can also go into the store and buy it in a 1 gallon can. You can find that in the camping section of the store. So, just go to a camping store if nothing else, look for the heating oil and they probably sell it in gallon cans.

For what it's worth, you can never get that air cleaner clean after all these years. I know, I soaked mine trying to clean it for my 48 Plymouth. If you want to see what it looks like after soaking go to this link. http://www.indfloorcoating-repair.com/1948plymouthenginerestoration.html I modified mine to use a paper air cleaner.

[Reg Evans]

I have a parts washer filled with mineral spirits. Before that I used gasoling,paint thinner and Laquer thinner. You are just trying to flush out most of the dirty dusty oil so any solvent should work fine. Laquer thinner is the fastest but will act as a paint remover too on the outside of the air cleaner.

[David Muma]

Home Depot here... carry both 1 gallon and five gallon containers of kerosene

[grey beard]

Mario,

Why not cut out the inside of the top element jjust inside the lip and install a nice, clean, modern paper element of the sort all newer vehicles use? It will filter the air just fine and remove one potential leak from your engine compartdment. I have the larger heavy duty filter, and mine uses a NAPA A6184 filter quite nicely.

Your oil bath air clenaer cleans the air quite nucely at higher engine speeds, but at idle, large bubbles of air are pulled hrough in slugs. These bubbles often contain dirt and/or dust. Ir is for this reason that nearly all modern equipment uses paper filtration media. JMHO:)

[Mario Loya B1B]

I am not sure what route to take. My truck (as far as I know) is pretty much as close to original as they come. A while ago I decided to keep the 6V electrical for reason of keeping the truck original. So, wouldn't converting to an paper filter be contrary to that logic. As I mentioned earlier, this is a spare air filter. I think I might go ahead and convert it and keep the original one so that I can go back if ever needed. Dave and Norm, I may need to consult you guys.

A while ago, there a was a thread asking about what was the best fitting paper filter for our trucks --> here it is

I don't think mine is a heavyduty. Does anyone have a part number for one that would work in a '49 1/2 ton? Photos of my engine and spare below

[Young Ed]

Mario I still have oil bath air cleaners on both my cars and my truck. I soaked the elements in the parts washer for a couple days repainted them and installed with clean oil. You should be able to do the same.

[Merle Coggins]

Mario,

I too am trying to keep my truck mostly original, but my air filter was rusted badly on the inside due to it being stored in the bed of the truck and getting filled with rain water. Following Norms info from his web site, I did a similar conversion. I gutted the upper section and cut it shorter to allow good air flow, but you have to look very close to see any of the paper element when it's assembled. I cut a donut shaped plate and set it in the bottom with RTV silicone to get a flat surface for the filter to seal against. I found a Napa 542193 element that fits pretty good.

Merle

[Guest Dave Claussen]

My Dad used to buy "white gas" for his Coleman lanterns. I think you could probably use VM&P Naptha that is available at most hardware stores in one gallon cans. Just make sure and have plenty of ventilation as cautioned on the label. We use it at work and it'll give you a headache if you are exposed to it for too long. It works good for dissolving oil etc. which is what you are attempting to do to your air cleaner. A little shot of compressed air will evaporate it with little or no residue.

[DutchEdwin]

Good idea to get a paper air cleaner. Any good suggestions for my filter, 1955 260 cu.in. V8

[greg g]

Colman camping fuel (or other brands) can be substituted for white gas.

[grey beard]

Merle,

I used 3/4-inch wide weatherstrip foam tape, self adhering on one side, and put this on the bottom and top area of the lid where my paper element contacts. Worked really fine, seals well, and is visible only when the element is changed. You really have to look hard to see the paper element inside the lid, and since I have also installed a pcv system, I am obviously more concerned about engine life than originality.

Mario, for a guy who cherishes originality, that nice clean engine surely loois awfully BLUE for original . . . . . .

[Norm's Coupe]

Good idea to get a paper air cleaner. Any good suggestions for my filter, 1955 260 cu.in. V8

Edwin,

Since there are different sizes of air cleaners (even on the P15's) it's hard to tell you what size paper air cleaner would work in you 55. If you want to switch to paper, you can follow the basic instructions on the web page I posted. Once you have all the old stuff cut out, take the air cleaner with you to the parts store. Then just look for a paper cleaner to fit inside. Remember though you have to leave an open space for the air to get through. Best thing to do is measure the gap between the top of your cleaner and the bottom half before you cut out the old filter out. Then find a paper filter big enough around and tall enough to give you about the same spacing.

[Mario Loya B1B]

Mario, for a guy who cherishes originality, that nice clean engine surely loois awfully BLUE for original . . . . . .

I knew that was coming! Quite honestly I just want to keep the thing running, so I can enjoy it. And If I had a choice I would have painted the engine silver, but the previous owner saw it differently.

[Mario Loya B1B]

Merle,

From the looks of your photos, it seems like the top portion of the canister was cut and it does not rest on the bottom of the resevoir. Is that right? So, the paper element is supporting the top piece. Actually that makes sense - the air has to get in there somehow.

My resevoir piece is a little different than yours. I think I might try using some liquid resin or epoxy to level the bottom for a good seal with the bottom of the paper filter.

[Norm's Coupe]

Mario,

If you want the air cleaner to still look completely stock, you can leave the sides on the top section of the air cleaner. You'll still get all the air you need through it that way. On the stock oil bath cleaner that side section doesn't sit on the bottom of the cleaner. It has a space between them when put together. Then there is a space between the sides and top for air to flow down and in. Those same spaces will allow the same amount of air if a paper filter is used as long as you use a filter tall enough for the spacing at the top between the two pieces. That gap was about 1/2 inch, give or take a little. When you look at my air cleaner it looks completely original. Even if you take the top off and look at it from the side, it still looks original. You have to turn the top upside down to see that all the old filtering system is gone. I did this on mine in 1998 and it's worked fine ever since. I did not alter the bottom section at all. I found a filter that sits in there just right. The rubber seal on the bottom of the filter closes it off, and the top holds it there when you put the nut on to hold the top section. No dirt gets through.

[Merle Coggins]

This is what it looked like before I started.

Never mind the oil filter in the photo. That's another story.

I cut around the sides about 1/2" up from the bottom of the upper section. Then it came apart pretty easy. I then ended up cuting a little more off to expose more of the filter element. I then cleaned everything and repainted it. I toyed with the idea of filling the bottom with something to level it out, but then cut the plate to fit in instead. That worked quite well. I then measured it up as close as possible and got out our Napa Master Filter catalog and found a few elements that would work. Since they didn't stock any of them, I picked the one I thought would fit the best and ordered it in. It worked out nicely. You have to take a little time to center the filter element properly, otherwise the cover won't sit on straight. But with a little readjusting it'll fit. Then tighten the wing nut and you're done. You'll notice from one of the first pictures, that the filter element gets crushed a little bit when the cover's tightened down. This doesn't appear to hurt the element, but I then know that I'm getting a good seal on the top and bottom.

Merle

[Norm's Coupe]

I left the sides on the top of my air cleaner. This is how it looked after cutting the small cross metal strips out. Then the air cleaner guts just fell out. Left it this way. Will work either way. Like Merle did his or I did mine. I also have to center the paper cleaner each time. I don't tighten mine quite as much as Merle evidently does though. I just snug it down and stop before I start to crush the filter.

Here's a side view.

[DutchEdwin]

Edwin' date='

Since there are different sizes of air cleaners (even on the P15's) it's hard to tell you what size paper air cleaner would work in you 55. If you want to switch to paper, you can follow the basic instructions on the web page I posted. Once you have all the old stuff cut out, take the air cleaner with you to the parts store. Then just look for a paper cleaner to fit inside. Remember though you have to leave an open space for the air to get through. Best thing to do is measure the gap between the top of your cleaner and the bottom half before you cut out the old filter out. Then find a paper filter big enough around and tall enough to give you about the same spacing.[/quote']

Thanks Norm, I'll work my way through. When finished I'll post it. Could be a while though.

[Mario Loya B1B]

Well guys I decided to go the paper element route. I cut her open yesterday and to my surprise the 50+ year old filter element was in very good condition - My hands didn't even get dirty. I will try to fit her for a filter at lunchtime today. Photos to follow. Thanks for everyone's input.

[Reg Evans]

Uh Oh....it's becoming a Hot Rod.

[Mario Loya B1B]

Well guys I'm very happy with the result. I tried the paper filter that you used, Norm, but it was a tad too short for mine. The parts guy was more than happy to look through his inventory to find the best fit. The filter I used is a Carquest #88179 for anyone that has a similar type filter housing. It seems to seal quite nicely at the top and the bottom when the wingnut is tightened. Looks pretty darn close to original to me.

[Norm's Coupe]

Looks good Mario. I guess my filter number wouldn't fit your's. Your's looks a little bigger than my air cleaner. Mine is in a car though. Even so, right after putting up that we page some years ago, I found out that not all car air cleaners are the same either. That's why it's best to just take the air cleaner into the store and fit one.

No one can tell the difference in a modified or original air cleaner unless they look inside, when done this way.

[Mario Loya B1B]

No one can tell the difference in a modified or original air cleaner unless they look inside' date=' when done this way.[/quote']

I even plan on putting that oil bath instruction decal on the outside just for looks and a little deception.

[Mario Loya B1B]

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