Engine Removal

[Joe Flanagan]

The marks must be aligned.

[aero3113]

I rotated the cam shaft and was able to get the chain on with the marks aligned thanks guys.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[Niel Hoback]

Thats purty. Oil it good before you put the cover on.

[greg g]

Are you 100 % that number 1 is TDC when the marks are alligned??? Just asking looks good.

Reminds me of a few years back. As you are doing this I hope you are giving some thought to the trip to Vermont in July. You should have some Break in miles on it by then.

[aero3113]

Greg by looking at the crank both #1 and #6 are at the top of the stroke and the timing marks line up what do you think?

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

Now that I look at your valves compared to mine I have #4 intake and #5 exhaust valves open and you have #2 intake and #3 exhaust valves open. I guess I am off? but I just tried to get your config and could not get it, this is the only way my marks will line up?

Edited February 20, 2011 by aero3113

[Dodgeb4ya]

Now that I look at your valves compared to mine I have #4 and #5 exhaust valves open and you have #2 and #3 exhaust valves open. I guess I am off?

You are fine. Just line the dots on the cam/ crank gears as you have done. Now rotate crank to set # 1 cylinder TDC with #1 clyinder valves closed (cam lobes down-pointing away from lifters) this is TDC for #1 cylinder and then install oil pump into the block as described in the manual. When pump is installed correctly withthe distributor installed correctly the rotor can only point either to 1-O'clock or 7-O'clock position. Have it point to the 7-O'clock position. Thats factory rotor position for #1 cylinder @TDC. Now do a preliminary cold valve adjustment on all your valves. I set mine .002" wider cold. Thats it -it will run properly after setting timing! Re-adjust valves again hot. Good luck-nice rebuild!

Bob

[greg g]

Didn't mean for the pic to confuse you. I don't kow where the crank was for that pic as everythig was butoned up and awaiting the head and accesssories.

Just wanted to make sure you were sure, and the pic was just for yucks...

[aero3113]

I installed the rings on the pistons,the pistons on the rods and installed them in the engine today. I also installed the timing cover and pulley. Everything went smooth but I do have a couple of questions on the timing cover. The new seal has a lip on it that faces the timing gear it comes very close to the gear,is this normal?(You can kinda see it in the pic) I turned the crank over and it does not seem to be rubbing so I guess it is ok? Also my engine did not have a felt seal when I took it apart and do not see it listed in my parts book, I did not install it, should I?

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[Don Coatney]

Yes to the felt.

[aero3113]

Yes to the felt.

Even though I don't have a recess for it to go in? I do not have a damper like you do as you can see.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I used your timing cover picture, and one of mine to show, for those who don't know some points on the TC area to be sure to use sealer on most of the bolts and also the location of the copper sealing washer under the upper RH engine mount plate bolt, all this to be sure to help prevent oil/and water leakage at the front end of these 6 cylinder flatheads!

Your engine looks show!

Bob

[aero3113]

Thanks,nice diagram. There is one more that needs to be sealed it is behind the cam gear you can barely see it in my pic (to the right of the other behind the gear). Tell you the truth I didn't know about the copper gasket, would all of the bolts that look like that in the pic have a copper gasket?I used a good sealant on them so it should not be a issue if it is not the copper one. Anyone have any input on the seal Clearance? It might not be a issue. If the crank does not move forward or aft while running it should not be a issue because it is not rubbing now.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have only seen the one bolt have the copper washer installed. Sealer will do too. The OE front seals stuck out about a 1/4" on the non-damper pulleys. Now all the replacement seals being just flat you just press them in all the way to the face of the cover and thats all you can do

Bob

[aero3113]

I have only seen the one bolt have the copper washer installed. Sealer will do too. The OE front seals stuck out about a 1/4" on the non-damper pulleys. Now all the replacement seals being just flat you just press them in all the way to the face of the cover and thats all you can do

Bob

There is a lip on the inside of the seal that almost touches the gear,its like a oil slinger ring maybe? I think I might have a picture of the original seal and the one I used to show the difference,I just have to find it.

[aero3113]

I got lucky and found the pick right away. The old seal is on the left and new on the right, you can see the lip I am talking about. I just want to make sure this is correct before I install the engine in the car.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[Specialdeluxe47]

Did you use gasket sealent like "Permatex" on the paper seal between the block and the engine mounting plate? What did you use to seal your bolts?

[aero3113]

Did you use gasket sealent like "Permatex" on the paper seal between the block and the engine mounting plate? What did you use to seal your bolts?

Yes, I used Permatex on all of the paper seals, I think it is Permatex 2B. I used red high temp RTV on the bolts that go into the water jacket.

[aero3113]

I just called Vintage Power Wagons to ask about the seal, they said with the new seal the clearance is very close and should have no issues. The felt is only designed to be used with a damper that has a recess for it.

[aero3113]

Today I installed the oil pick-up,cross over tube,oil pan,oil pump and oil pressure relief valve. I was in heaven installing everything standing up instead of on my back under the car:D(have done that about 3 times before,LoL:o). I slid the distributor in to make sure it would point to the 7'o-clock position and it did:).

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

I also came up with a puller to pull the pilot bushing I tried it and used it with a slid hammer I have. I will have to double or triple up the safety wire because when I tried it it broke but it seems like it will work. Anyone have any other tricks to remove the bushing?

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[55 Fargo]

All looks great Keith, been following along your thread and watching progress:cool:.

This thread is getting huge:eek:, might be time for Engine Install Thread;)

[Dodgeb4ya]

I just called Vintage Power Wagons to ask about the seal, they said with the new seal the clearance is very close and should have no issues. The felt is only designed to be used with a damper that has a recess for it.

If the seal hits this is what it will look like-some dark discoloration. And yes that metal oil slinger type of oil seal IS very close to the TC chain. If the original old seal is carelessly pounded out it will cave in the timing cover just enough so when the new oil slinger type seal is pressed in with a unknowingly damaged TC cover you won't know there is a problem till you hear a rubbing noise down at the front of the engine and then you ask yourself what the hell is that noise?

Bummer!

[Don Coatney]

All looks great Keith, been following along your thread and watching progress:cool:.

This thread is getting huge:eek:, might be time for Engine Install Thread;)

Nothing wrong with a long thread. Keeps all the eggs in the same basket.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I also came up with a puller to pull the pilot bushing I tried it and used it with a slid hammer I have. I will have to double or triple up the safety wire because when I tried it it broke but it seems like it will work. Anyone have any other tricks to remove the bushing?

Fill the area behind the bushing completely with grease-no air pockets. Then get a solid metal rod or wood dowel that fits the bushing fairly tight and pound it into the bushing and the bushing will come out hydraulically! If grease leaks around driver it's too small a diameter. Bigger driver is needed.

Bob