P-12 Tommy Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Damn Keith.... you'll be afraid to get the motor dirty. Coming together very well. Tom Quote
greg g Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 I used the copper spray on the block side of the gasket. the torque sequencing is meant to make sure the gasket gets squeezed equally from the center out to make sure no wrinkles form. It's OK to loosen a two to attach your lifting chain. Just remember to tighten them again when your engine is positioned and the chain is off. You're going to retorque again after you get some heat into it so loosening those at the far corners of the heads is not a problem. Quote
aero3113 Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Posted February 25, 2011 Damn Keith.... you'll be afraid to get the motor dirty. Coming together very well.Tom Thanks Tom . Greg that's good to hear, I was afraid it might ruin the the gasket. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 That's how I attached the chain to mine and didn't have any problem with the head gasket. Quote
greg g Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Just another thought. I put washers on the head bolts just to be sure the head of the bolt would not slip throughthe chain. Quote
Specialdeluxe47 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 aero3113 This is a great thread as I too are doing the same thing to my 1947 218. I may be behind you in progress but keep it going. Pics to come soon. Quote
Specialdeluxe47 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 aero3113 did you have someone rebuild your distributor or did you do it? If you did it where did you get your parts? Quote
aero3113 Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Posted February 25, 2011 (edited) aero3113 did you have someone rebuild your distributor or did you do it? If you did it where did you get your parts? I took it apart, painted it,lubed it up and installed new points and leads. It's not that bad of a job with it out of the car. If you go to page 2 of this thread you can see how bad my leads were. I found the leads on ebay and the points were extras that came with the car when I bought it. Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113 Quote
aero3113 Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Posted February 25, 2011 (edited) Today I was able to Install and torque down the head, I used sealer on all of the bolts except for the 2 I am gonna use for the chain. I used the copper spray on both sides of the gasket because even on the paper side it still has a ring of metal that needs to be sealed. The "Bump" that sticks out isn't too bad and should be hidden when the water pump is installed. Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 26, 2011 Report Posted February 26, 2011 Looks like the water "D" tube needs to go flush to the face of the block. I think most all new replacement head gaskets are made with the bump to fit early and late engines. Bob Quote
RobertKB Posted February 26, 2011 Report Posted February 26, 2011 I think most all new replacement head gaskets are made with the bump to fit early and late engines.Bob Exactly. If it really bothers aero 3113, just take a sharp (soon to be dull) chisel and remove the offending bit of gasket. However, it really won't be visible once the water pump is on. My 2 cents worth and they may not even be worth that much! Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 26, 2011 Report Posted February 26, 2011 If it was the cheaper steel head gasket, it wouldn't be worth the 2 cents! Quote
aero3113 Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Posted February 26, 2011 Looks like the water "D" tube needs to go flush to the face of the block. I think most all new replacement head gaskets are made with the bump to fit early and late engines.Bob I left the tube out a little bit so when I put the water pump on it will be a tight fit against it and will draw it in. Yea, I think all the new gaskets have the bump since it is universal to both internal and external bypass. Quote
aero3113 Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Posted February 27, 2011 (edited) I picked up some fittings and I think I came up with how I am going to run my PCV. I may get a shorter down tube not sure yet,that is why I did not cut the hose,it looks a lot cleaner than the way I used to have it. When I was looking for a new intake manifold I made sure it had the port on the side so I can run it like this. I also went to the auto store and asked for the shortest radiator hose in the size I needed and cut it to make a new hose for the t-stat housing. I think the hose that was on there was original . Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113 Quote
austinsailor Posted February 27, 2011 Report Posted February 27, 2011 >Yea, I think all the new gaskets have the bump since it is universal to >both internal and external bypass. I just got an overhaul set from NAPA last week and it had the non-bump gasket, which is what I wanted. Quote
aero3113 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Posted February 28, 2011 (edited) I picked up a shorter and thinner down tube for the PCV, it gives the heat riser more clearance and has a cleaner look. I also received my magnetic oil drain plug from VPW and pilot bushing which is in the freezer as I write this. Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113 Quote
aero3113 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Posted March 1, 2011 (edited) Here is a pic of the PCV apart, I bought it from VPW a couple of years ago. Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113 Quote
aero3113 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Posted March 1, 2011 (edited) Tonight I was able to install the pilot bushing and flywheel. When I was installing the clutch, one of the bolts snapped (I used the correct torque setting,30-35ft lbs.) Good thing the broken bolt just unscrewed out from the flywheel. I am going to replace the six bolts that hold the clutch on with grade 8 bolts. Is there a certain way the flywheel and clutch should be on? I did not mark them when they came off so I just bolted them up. Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113 Quote
greg g Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 Just what ever way it lines up. Are you sure your torque wrench is correct??? Quote
aero3113 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Posted March 1, 2011 Just what ever way it lines up. Are you sure your torque wrench is correct??? Yea,its one from my tool box at work (Just had it tested and calibrated). Can the clutch and flywheel not line up? Quote
greg g Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 only if the flywheel is drilled for both the 9 in and 11 inch clutch but is should be pretty intuitive. Did you get an alignment tool for centering the frictin disc. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Posted March 1, 2011 Yes,when I had my clutch rebuilt at Tennessee Clutch they included one. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 When you replace the bolt make sure you use a grade 8 bolt with a shoulder as pictured. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Posted March 1, 2011 Don, I went to 4 different hardware stores and could not find the correct grade 8 bolt with the shoulder? I even checked on-line and they all came up with no shoulder. Does anyone have the correct bolts for the clutch laying around? It is 5/16 X 1 (actually just under an inch) 18 thread size. Quote
greg g Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 Most hardware stores do not carry grade 8 stuff, google insdustial fasteners or construction supplies, or see if there is a Grainger Store in your area. I remember a lot of those types of places in LI CITY but that a ways from you. Quote
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