head gasket sealer

[oldcarlover]

Just bought a head gasket for my 50 flathead from Andy Bernbaum Auto

parts. It is steel with a composite sandwiiched in the middle. I asked what

type of sealer should be used and they were not sure. I also noticed at the

front location of the gasket was an extra hole. When I line it up on the block,

everything fits perfect and the extra hole is covered by the surface of the block. Is this ok or will the extra hole cause a weak spot? I have copper spray

gasket sealer. Should I spray both sides of gasket?

[jd52cranbrook]

Welcome aboard.

I put mine on both both sides when I install a new gasket, others will chirp in with their mix I am sure.

I have also used silver paint among other things.

Are you sure it is not copper on one side? The gasket I mean.

[Harvey Tank]

I used copper coat on mine, booth sides works great. as for the extra hole don't worry about it. just let it stik out on the front. right of the water pump.

drivers side.

torque head bolt @ 65 to 75 Lbs. three times.

[greg g]

the above note refers to the practice of retorquing the head after a heatcycle. When doing the initial torque, it is necessary to follow the proper secuence, and to do it in increments like 40, 60, 70. Then go around again after having run it up to operating temp, in sequence at 70 lb ft.

[austinsailor]

The silver paint method is to spray paint it both sides with a metallic silver paint. Let one coat dry, then spray another coat and install it while the paint is still tacky. I've never had one blow after using this method, even in a motor that had a history of blown gaskets.

Proper torquing is also very important.

[38plymouth]

the above note refers to the practice of retorquing the head after a heatcycle. When doing the initial torque, it is necessary to follow the proper secuence, and to do it in increments like 40, 60, 70. Then go around again after having run it up to operating temp, in sequence at 70 lb ft.

I did my head last night and I swear the manual said 55-60 pounds for the iron head. I went to 60, should I go higher?

[TodFitch]

I did my head last night and I swear the manual said 55-60 pounds for the iron head. I went to 60, should I go higher?

There are a couple of different values out there, see http://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

My take is that if you are using head bolts the torque should be 65 to 70 ft-lbs. If you are using studs and nuts the value should be 55 to 60 ft-lbs.

Studs have fine threads so you get more clamping force at the same torque value.

[38plymouth]

There are a couple of different values out there, see http://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

My take is that if you are using head bolts the torque should be 65 to 70 ft-lbs. If you are using studs and nuts the value should be 55 to 60 ft-lbs.

Studs have fine threads so you get more clamping force at the same torque value.

That's what it said, I have the studs.

[claybill]

interesting stuff here....i use the copper spray..sprayed it also onthe metal head/block and gasket.

bill

[martybose]

I've always used a Felpro gasket that is copper on the bottom and blue teflon on the top. I've always coated the bottom with Gasgacinch (now sold by Edelbrock) and left the top bare. No problems in the last decade or so.

Marty

[steveplym]

Gasket will work, but why was the right one not sent:eek:

Are they no longer available for the external bypass head?

I ran into the same thing Shel. It is no big deal as you can't see it, but when I checked it with my old gasket it was the same way. Maybe they are making a one size fits all.

[greg g]

Sorry was using my reference for torque. My p15 manual says 70. Ond I am using bolts not studs and nuts.