randroid Posted July 19, 2010 Report Posted July 19, 2010 Folks, The first coat of Rustoleum primer was rolled onto the roof last Monday then allowed to cure for five days. Most of those days were under a tarp, the first two days being the exception, and that was more than enough time for it to cure to the consistency of granite. I began removing that granite this morning in search of a smooth finish upon which to apply a second, thinner coat, and early on in the process I became firm in my resolve that Rustoleum primer needs to be applied straight from the can like Altoids aren’t strong enough. Of course I chose the largest thing on the car to prime first so my error with straight primer will take the greatest amount of time to repair, but it’s my own fault for not putting together the logic expressed in rolling Rustoleum; the paint is thinned so much you can barely see the first coats, but with subsequent coat of paint the color gets there pretty fast, so wouldn’t the primer work the same way? I’m going to do the hood before I finish the roof. The hood was done once about three years ago in primer but after I’ve pounded-out a few minor dents it could sure use another coat. Since I will be sanding it down to big bare spots I’ll give it a shot with some 70\30 primer, maybe two simultaneous coats, and while that’s drying I can get back to chipping granite. So here it is the next day and I did my honeydew list by installing an air conditioner in the computer room because it faces West and has no shade and can easily get fifteen degrees hotter than anywhere else in the house, but there were no rocks flying from Pigiron today. I also wired the same room for cable TV but to do either job I needed to locate specialized tools that I hadn’t yet found in our new home, and thus is explained how a two-hour job can easily eat half a day. All the tools were found and utilized and others were also located, which gives me hope that eventually all will be back to my version of normality. I’ll do the hood and then maybe pictures will be in order. Meanwhile, thin the Rustoleum. -Randy Quote
JoelOkie Posted July 19, 2010 Report Posted July 19, 2010 Working on house stuff instead of the car....damn the luck! Sound like you have gotten the paint figured out Randy. All of it's a heck of a lot of hard work. Joel Quote
greg g Posted July 19, 2010 Report Posted July 19, 2010 (edited) The rust paint will need some thinning and hardner in the final coats. You can get hardener from Tractor Supply Company (or whatever your area alternative is) When you first start to put color on, you need to thin it pretty drastically. Use tight foam roller and resist the urge to work it smooth. After you get some coats, (i think I did 4) then reduce the thinner and introduce the hardner. The process is time consuming as you need to let the coats dry completely before attempting to sand between coats. I did not bother sanding the first 4 thined coats. I did sand between the last three. and since I am going for a satin finish, I added some flatener to the top two. I chose a satin finish because I did not do my best body work (itsa truck) so shiney is not good. Edited July 19, 2010 by greg g Quote
55 Fargo Posted July 19, 2010 Report Posted July 19, 2010 (edited) Ihave rolled Rustoleum ona test project a few years back with fairly decent success, I did thin the paint close to 50%, roll 2 coats wetsand 600, roll 2 coats wetsand 600, roll 2 more coats wetsand 1000, roll 2 final coats(8coats), then wetsand 1500. After this you can use a polsih, buffer, and bring to a brilliant shine, this is follwed by a wax. I dida 48 Chrysler metal dash it was as smooth as a baby's you-know-what, and shiny, this was a small test piece, so a a whole car or bigger sections becomes more challenging, but can be done. I have a recipe and pics from a Guy from another forum that uses urethane paints, for the tip and roll method, he is a boat painter, his work is awesome.......Fred PS the pic is the dash I roller painted with Rust paint, it was not cut and polished yet, I only used a little Turtle Polish by hand, after the final wetsand, it still need to be buffed out, it was still shiny and smooth, no peel, blisters, fisheyes nothing....... Edited July 19, 2010 by Rockwood Quote
Don Coatney Posted August 5, 2010 Report Posted August 5, 2010 Are you sure that is the best paint to use? Quote
55 Fargo Posted August 5, 2010 Report Posted August 5, 2010 That can was sprayed with Dupli-color on the exterior.........LOL Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 5, 2010 Report Posted August 5, 2010 Are you sure that is the best paint to use? Don...cut the can open, that is the the pudding is.. Quote
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