Robin (UK) Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 Hi Guys, Here's a new approach to car body modification, from Lithuania... http://englishrussia.com/index.php/2008/05/29/lithuanians-and-pu-foam/ Scroll down to see the work in progress. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 Man........whatta deal. Wonder how those hold up over time. Quote
greg g Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 I have been using expanding foam fo years for body work on winter rats, and use a similar process on one of my studebaker fenders. Uded the foam to act as a backer to fiberglass matt and resin, then carved the foam away after the glass cured. For beaters you just tape some plastic over the rusted out portion, pump in the foam. After it sets remove the plastic, carve or abrasive wheel out a bit of relief, bondo, shape and paint. then undercoat the back of the repair as the foam will attract moisture. It extends a bondo job from 6 months to 2 or three years. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 Greg post some of the northern body work techniques at their finest..as said, will get the winter beater through another season while you park the good car..sad part is this fast and cheap method has found its way to the quick cut and cover body repair, flash bang paint jobs, move them down the line fly by night individuals/shops..sad part is when these type repairs rear their ugly heads, you are on your own..the PO is long gone.. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 I can understand how someone going by the name of "Fireball" would be speechless at the concept of an expaning foam car body ! The license plate should say "NO SMOKING". Quote
Edward Roberts Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Another fine example of: Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. Quote
Gary Manes Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Along these lines I have been wondering why one could not mold the "whiskers" for the Chryslers from plastic which now-a-days can be platted. The originals are pot metal and replacements are scarce as hen's teeth. I need two on mine. You Dodge/Plymouth guys are lucky because your's are all stainless steel. There is a gentlman, Edward Pauch, in Winipeg, Canada who does a number of different castings for the many (hard to find) plastic pieces for the Chryslers. I hope he reads this post. I have dealt with him before, and (from my experience) he makes very high quality reproductions with his molding kit(s). I think it would be right up there with the foam idea. Something that would work and is practical--meaning within most folks budget. Quote
Big_John Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 I have been using expanding foam fo years for body work on winter rats, and use a similar process on one of my studebaker fenders. Uded the foam to act as a backer to fiberglass matt and resin, then carved the foam away after the glass cured.For beaters you just tape some plastic over the rusted out portion, pump in the foam. After it sets remove the plastic, carve or abrasive wheel out a bit of relief, bondo, shape and paint. then undercoat the back of the repair as the foam will attract moisture. It extends a bondo job from 6 months to 2 or three years. Ed Roth built a lot of his cars in a similar way. He'd carve the body out of Plaster of Paris, cover with 'glass and resin, then knock the plaster out. Quote
Flatie46 Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 I always wanted to build my own body from fiberglass. Never thought of useing spray foam though. No doubt the man is very talented. Somewhere someone will pay half a million for a one off car made from spray foam. I didn't know this was a quick fix for the rust belt cars. When they get to the point you've gotta use this stuff I guess it doesn't matter how it's fixed anyway. Quote
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