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New approach to car body modification (OT)


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Posted

I have been using expanding foam fo years for body work on winter rats, and use a similar process on one of my studebaker fenders. Uded the foam to act as a backer to fiberglass matt and resin, then carved the foam away after the glass cured.

For beaters you just tape some plastic over the rusted out portion, pump in the foam. After it sets remove the plastic, carve or abrasive wheel out a bit of relief, bondo, shape and paint. then undercoat the back of the repair as the foam will attract moisture. It extends a bondo job from 6 months to 2 or three years.

Posted

Greg post some of the northern body work techniques at their finest..as said, will get the winter beater through another season while you park the good car..sad part is this fast and cheap method has found its way to the quick cut and cover body repair, flash bang paint jobs, move them down the line fly by night individuals/shops..sad part is when these type repairs rear their ugly heads, you are on your own..the PO is long gone..

Posted

I can understand how someone going by the name of "Fireball" would be speechless at the concept of an expaning foam car body ! The license plate should say "NO SMOKING".

Posted

Along these lines I have been wondering why one could not mold the "whiskers" for the Chryslers from plastic which now-a-days can be platted. The originals are pot metal and replacements are scarce as hen's teeth. I need two on mine. You Dodge/Plymouth guys are lucky because your's are all stainless steel.

There is a gentlman, Edward Pauch, in Winipeg, Canada who does a number of different castings for the many (hard to find) plastic pieces for the Chryslers. I hope he reads this post. I have dealt with him before, and (from my experience) he makes very high quality reproductions with his molding kit(s).

I think it would be right up there with the foam idea. Something that would work and is practical--meaning within most folks budget.

Posted
I have been using expanding foam fo years for body work on winter rats, and use a similar process on one of my studebaker fenders. Uded the foam to act as a backer to fiberglass matt and resin, then carved the foam away after the glass cured.

For beaters you just tape some plastic over the rusted out portion, pump in the foam. After it sets remove the plastic, carve or abrasive wheel out a bit of relief, bondo, shape and paint. then undercoat the back of the repair as the foam will attract moisture. It extends a bondo job from 6 months to 2 or three years.

Ed Roth built a lot of his cars in a similar way. He'd carve the body out of Plaster of Paris, cover with 'glass and resin, then knock the plaster out.

Posted

I always wanted to build my own body from fiberglass. Never thought of useing spray foam though. No doubt the man is very talented. Somewhere someone will pay half a million for a one off car made from spray foam.

I didn't know this was a quick fix for the rust belt cars. When they get to the point you've gotta use this stuff I guess it doesn't matter how it's fixed anyway.

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