Mario Loya B1B Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Hi folks. This summer my truck has been acting up at unpredictible times. Originally occured during Memorial weekend when she cutout on me while driving down the street a few blocks from my home. It felt as if it just ran out of gas, however I had a half full tank. After pushing her out of the way of traffic, I was able to start her up for a few seconds by pulling the throttle knob out half way but would never stay running for more than a few seconds. I went through this exercise several times a day for a couple days when I finally gave up and called a tow truck. As you might guess when the tow truck arrived, she started right up and I was able to drive her home with no problem. I hadn't tried to move her until this past weekend. The truck started right up but after idleing for a short period it starts to "stutter" (for lack of a better word) and ultimately dies at which point gas leaks out of the sides of the carb. What seems to be happening here? Is the truck getting to much gas? not enough? Is it a fuel pump issue, dirty carb? Could the float need adjusting? Other threads I've read seem to suggest it could be any of these. Any advice is much appreciated. Remember I am a real novice at these things so the more detail you may be able to provide is really very much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Sounds like the float needle valve is sticking open, allowing the fuel pump to flood the carb. Ya might have some crud in the carb, as sediment & varnish have a tendency to collect in the float chamber. I recommend removing the air horn, being careful not to damage the gasket, remove the float & needle valve, and flush the innerds with a can of aerosol carb cleaner. Dry with compressed air, reassemble to specifications, and see if that works. Or go the full nine yards and get a carb.kit, disassemble the carb from air horn to mounting flange, clean thoroughly & reassemble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 what kind of fuel pump do you have? the mechanicals are a little closer to tuned to the engine, normal electrics are un-governed and may just push the needle off, and electric "diddle" pumps will only build 4-5 PSI and then slow down to just keep pace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Loya B1B Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Sounds like the float needle valve is sticking open, allowing the fuel pump to flood the carb. Ya might have some crud in the carb, as sediment & varnish have a tendency to collect in the float chamber. I recommend removing the air horn, being careful not to damage the gasket, remove the float & needle valve, and flush the innerds with a can of aerosol carb cleaner. Dry with compressed air, reassemble to specifications, and see if that works. Or go the full nine yards and get a carb.kit, disassemble the carb from air horn to mounting flange, clean thoroughly & reassemble. Thanks for the detail and quick reply. I think that is a good place to start. I'll keep ya posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Loya B1B Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 what kind of fuel pump do you have? the mechanicals are a little closer to tuned to the engine, normal electrics are un-governed and may just push the needle off, and electric "diddle" pumps will only build 4-5 PSI and then slow down to just keep pace. I have a mechanical pump. I have read enough about electrical pumps causing issues with our age trucks and I like the idea of keeping it as close to stock, so I have stuck with the mechanical variety. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Loya B1B Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Can someone help me identify what carb rebuild kit I need for this Carter BB Carburetor? and a good source for the kit? From what I've read, the carb can be identified by numbers on the airhorn. The only numbers/letters I am able to make out are "6 E712" Do these numbers seem right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut123 Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Mario for a carb rebuild kit. It's carquest number 101a . Thats for a carter BB carb. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Keep us posted on the results. I was having the same problem and couldn't figure it out. I decided to pull my truck apart and start my engine swap project instead of messing around with the carb. Here's a link to my thread...just in case any of the suggestions in here help you out. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=203610#post203610 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Make sure that your in-line gas filter is not clogged. Check your line and gas pump before overhauling your carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Loya B1B Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Keep us posted on the results. I was having the same problem and couldn't figure it out. I decided to pull my truck apart and start my engine swap project instead of messing around with the carb. Here's a link to my thread...just in case any of the suggestions in here help you out. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=203610#post203610 Dan, I actually read your thread before my original post and I have to admit it scared me a bit. I don't think a hemi is in the budget for my truck, so I need to get this thing figured out. Yesterday, after pulling the airhorn from the carb I was astonished by the amount of sediment sitting in the bowl under the float. More astonishing is how did I not experience problems before this? Unfortunately after complete disassembly of the carb and a thorough bath, the problem continues. The truck starts right up but after several minutes at idle, it gets flooded. The only reason I can think of this happening is the needle is not sealing properly and is allowing to much fuel in the bowl. I adjusted the float tab as much as I could. Decided to get a carb rebuild kit and a new inline fuel filter before I give her another go. Lugnut, thanks for the Carquest carb rebuild kit number, I was able to cross reference with Napa and should have it later today. Jim, I admit the inline filter needs replacement and there is quite a bit of sediment in the fuel pump glass bowl. Can anyone tell me what is involved in cleaning the fuel pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Mario when you are rebuilding compare the ID of the two bottom gaskets to the spacer piece carefully. Lots of talk lately of wrong gaskets causing vacuum leaks in those two gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Loya B1B Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Mario when you are rebuilding compare the ID of the two bottom gaskets to the spacer piece carefully. Lots of talk lately of wrong gaskets causing vacuum leaks in those two gaskets. Yes, I saw that issue in another thread. I will be careful to look for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 One more thing....make sure you change your oil (or at least check it). I drained my oil the other day and it was really thinned out and stunk like gas. If you had gas pouring out of the sides of your carb like I did, then you probably had gas seep through the rings and into the pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Loya B1B Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 One more thing....make sure you change your oil (or at least check it). I drained my oil the other day and it was really thinned out and stunk like gas. If you had gas pouring out of the sides of your carb like I did, then you probably had gas seep through the rings and into the pan. I think I've found the problem, but have no idea how to fix it. Help! The float appears to has fluid (gas?) in it, which is most likely keeping it from rising all the way to close the needle. Does anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 2 ways to fix it. Drill a small hole in the float that has the gas in it and drain. there should be a solder spot somewhere besides the seam That's where you want to drill. Resolder the seam and let cool. Then solder the hole you drilled back up. You can test by sitting it overniight in some solvent. Other method is to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 an alternative is to put the float in the summer sun and let the accumulated gas boil out, then re-solder the joint. Test by attaching a weight like a big hex nut on a string to the float and submerge the float in a pot of water. Any air in the float will find the leak point as bubbles would escape, much like finding a pinhole in a flat tire. Submerge for I dunno a day or so to test the solder joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 I 've found that trying to solder the joint without an air escape hole tends to blow solder out of the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintrader Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 2 ways to fix it. Drill a small hole in the float that has the gas in it and drain. there should be a solder spot somewhere besides the seam That's where you want to drill. Resolder the seam and let cool. Then solder the hole you drilled back up. You can test by sitting it overniight in some solvent. Other method is to replace it. I have had a number of floats do this over the years. This fix works well and has never failed again. Good Luck. Dutch;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Loya B1B Posted July 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 My helper took it upon himself to make a "small" whole to release the gas. The good news is the gas is out but unfortunately that small whole is actually a large one. I was wondering if JB Weld would work. I saw in a past thread, that a gentlemen named George Asche is a good source for floats. I will look him up. Does anyone else know of a supplier? I'm guessing these are not something your local carpart store stocks, or can even get for that matter. Also, having had this issue, I've considered buying a second carb to keep on hand. Does anyone suggest a source for that. All I can think of is Ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 First thing to do is tell us where you are. There may be someone close to you that has a spare carb or float they'd being willing to part with. Several forum members have been making parts runs to salvage yards known to have pilothouse trucks within and several have trucks they have modified and/or parting out. Try the soldering trick. Treat it like a copper plumbing joint with the seam first. You may need to find a way to fasten the pivot bracket so it doesn't end up on the floor. Get all the heat out of it, then do a quiick heat and solder on the hole. it may take a few tries to get it but it can be done. You're not out anything if you can't get it to work. You can also send it to me if you want and I'll have a go at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 Mario, I have a Carter carb off my B3C parts truck. It has a cracked neck, but may be good for parts. It does not look like yours but maybe the floats are interchangeable. If interested send me your address and I'll drop it in the mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveMelchiorre Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 Did you search "The Carburetor Doctor" website? http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/catalog/DodgeTruck/DodgeTruck6.htm Steve... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 My freebie is a Carter YF 4378 S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Loya B1B Posted July 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 First thing to do is tell us where you are. You can also send it to me if you want and I'll have a go at it. Dave, I am in Southwest CT. I really appreciate your offer, but it appears that George Asche may be able to come through with a replacement. I have never been patient so i gave JB Weld a shot. The float has been submerged for close to 24hrs. I'm anxious to see how it holds up. I was a little generous with the stuff, so I am hoping bending the tab would allow me to compensate for the extra weight. This is really just a temporary fix until I have an acceptible replacement in hand. Steve, I did check out the "Carburetor Dr.s" website and they appear to only carry the carb kit for this type of carb (no floats). Jim, I also very much appreciate your offer. From what I been able to find out about your freebie it is somewhat different than my Carter carb but I may come back to you. Thanks to everyone for the comments, offers and advice. I'll keep you posted on the outcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Loya B1B Posted July 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 New carburetor float, carb kit, gas filter and spark plugs and she is now running like a top. Without a doubt should experience better gas mileage. Special thanks to George Asche, a real class act, who provided me with the float at a very reasonable price. And most gradifying is getting over my fear of fooling with the carb. After dismantling and re-assembling serveral times I feel like a soldier that can breakdown and reassemble his rifle blindfolded...well maybe not quite that confident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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