"Howdy" - newbie

[Edward Roberts]

Howdy, all. I'm new to the group and to Plymouths. I recently purchased a '46 Special DeLuxe 4-door. This is my first "old, fun" car. I say fun because I don't have to have it running to get to work in the morning!

Having said that, I'm looking forward to getting it on the road for the first time tomorrow morning. New tires are coming in today. I went with Goodyear Eagle LS-2 in 205/70R16 per Maurice Wade's post. (Cooper wide white$$ will have to wait.) Had to leave the wheels with the tire shop, so it is a sweat-filled day at the office worrying about how much damage a reformed meth-addict can do to four steel donuts given enough time and access to pneumatic machinery.

I plan to purchase service manuals and the like soon (money goes to moving parts first), but in the meantime can anyone tell me the torque specs on the lug bolt? I can't seem to find that tidbit anywhere. I'm guessing 80-90 lb-ft., but then I guessed a lot in school and look where that got me.

Thanks in advance for the help and for participating in such an info/experience filled forum. This is truly a great source of help.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Does Don Coatney know you have his car????? Appears to be same color...and if the guy did not damage you wheels...it was not for the lack of trying I assure you...

as for specs..I would say about 85 ft lb that is common for the 1/2 x 20 NF thread that is the value I use on my torque wrench..I usually use it when and where possible and always recommend a torque wrench for any wheel bolting to a disc brake rotor...

[Edward Roberts]

Thanks, Tim. I used to change tires and have watched in horror as coworkers performed some bizarrely cruel rituals on rotors, things involving breaker bars and air hammers. Never mouth off to the guy who prepares your food or works on your brakes!

I did notice the color match. I'd say it was coincidence, but perhaps the previous owner of mine was preparing me to be Mr. Coatney's doppelganger.

[boxer_inv]

Welcome aboard. Nice looking car. This is a great forum, plenty of info and good folks from all over the globe.

More pics of the car??

[Greenbomb]

I think some of the satisfaction of having a "toy" car is being able to leave it in a pile in the shop for however long you want. Shut the door-outta sight, outta mind. That is a good looking car. Welcome to the group.

[Edward Roberts]

Thanks, Rob. I'll put up a couple more photos. How did you get your steering wheels on that side of the car? HA! My uncle spent ten years in Australia and said I'd love it having grown up in Texas. Love the color of Dorothy. Our car was actually green (a darker shade) at one time, possibly originally.

Greenbomb, took the car out for the first time today. New tires worked great, as did everything else aside form the headlights. Oh, and there is a coolant leak from a pystery location. Had to explain the smile on my face to my wife. Women think cars are supposed to work perfectly... with nothing to work on! I just don't understand it.

Tim, I haven't wanted to call this color Grabber Blue because of the Ford people. I have found, though, that it's a pretty close match to Moroso Blue, as evidenced by my new plug wires. (Please excuse the Lucky Charms effect of the wiring used in the 12volt conversion.)

[BobT-47P15]

Nice looking car, Edward.

Welcome to the forum.

[David Strieb]

My '36 Chrysler is painted an '97 Ford Explorer blue, perfect match to what it was painted in '57. Now on it's 3rd paint job. Orginal color was brown.

[P-12 Tommy]

Welcome Edward!

Tom

[Edward Roberts]

Thanks, Tom. I look forward to picking everyone's brain.

[greg g]

You metioned a mystery leak. If its a coolant leak, the most frequent cause is an overfilling of the radiator. Some air space should be left at the top of the radiator. Most folks will fill them up to the to the rim of the filler. The top of the radiator is actually expasion area for whe the coolant gets hot. What will happen is that the car will burp out what is doesn't need, seek it own level if you will. So next time you drive it just make sure the coolent just covers the heat exchange tubes, and then see if the leak still exists .

[Edward Roberts]

Thanks, Greg. The coolant is at the proper level now and a subsequent short drive produced no leakage. The overflow tube appears to have a small slice in it which may have been the source, but left no evidence. (This tube is so old and painted-over that I can't tell if it's hardened rubber or metal. Will scrape and replace accordingly.) It appears that the radiator is filled with 100% coolant rather than a mix.

The previous owner commented that I might need to rod the radiator if it "runs hot" and couldn't remember if there was a thermostat in the car (which seems counter intuitive to me). I've read here on the Tech Archives about the need for heat with negative crankcase ventilation. The temp gauge currently does not work, so I'm nervous about going too far. When I park the car and raise the hood I see light smoke/steam coming out of the oil refill tube filter.

Is this normal?

Is that an indication that I haven't run the engine long enough?

Are these cars especially prone to overheating?

Should I run a mixture or 100% water in the cooling system during the summer?

Thanks for any advice.

[55 Fargo]

If you have a honeycomb rad, they cannot be rodded, just have it boiled out and flow tested.

A little smoke out the oil filler cap is quite normal, after the engine is shut-off, at least on all the flat heads I have seen running.

No they are not prone to overheat, lilke Ford L head V8, but if the rad is plugged, and water jackets full of crud, it will impede coolant flow, and of course overheat.

This engine has a water distribution tube, in block right behind water pump, pull it and make sure it s clean and not rusted out, mine was brass, so I was lucky.

I also removed the freeze plugs, flushed everything out and cleaned.

I would run 25% antifreeze, and 75 % de-ionized water, maybe some Water Wetter too.

You are in the deep south, so this mix should be okay, depending on yuor winter low temps. Your engine should run at anywhere from 165 to 190, depeding on your t/stat temp, ambient outside temps, highway or city driving. Timing that is too late will cause overheating too, so make sure you are timed right. 1 other thing, get a lazer temp gun and see what your engine temp is in the top of rad, back of head, or get a cheap meat thermometer, and stick in top of rad for readings.

I would get an aftermarket mechanical gauge, even for temporary.......

[greg g]

Anti freeze does not absorb and release heat as efficietly as water, water does not protect against corrosion and lubricate the water pump. But coolant will increase the boiling point of water. So the mix is recommended.

I have been running 75 water 25 coolant for years. Don't drive in the winter and it doesn't freeze in the garage. My car has never run over 190 except when we sat for 45 minutes in 85 degree temp at CAN AM customs one trip upnoth.

The simple test for flow through the radiator is to fill it with water (out of the car) with the bottom outlet blocked. With the cap off and the bottom outlet opened, the column of released water should rise about 6 inches before it collapes.