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Posted

Having worked for Underwriters Laboratories for 30 years, I was just wondering if any of you guys have any added electrical safety features into your PH wiring.

I was thinking about installing a Cole Hersee battery disconnect. Just incase something started smoking, I could cut the power quickly.

What about in line fuses or fusible links on some wires? I have worked too hard to let a little short torch my truck.

Any thoughts? Perhaps I should show some of the boys at UL a PH wiring diagram and see what they say.

Thanks!

Brad

Posted (edited)

Original wiring harnesses should be discarded, IMO, even if the conductors are intact. I've seen the cloth insulation rot away inside the factory electrical tape sections and things get kinda warm & gooey after that.

A battery disconnect is a great idea, especially if the vehicle isn't driven every day. A simple knife switch from the battery to the ground cable works on my IH diesel tractor. I reckon I'm gonna try to put one on the firewall of the Dodge to have an engine compartment accessible emergency shutoff.

Most of the lights & gauges are grounded to the chassis, and this is a problem whenever any corrosion is present. The 6V systems don't have enough oomph to overpower the added resistance, and this affects light & guage performance. I've run a separate ground lead from the fuel level sending unit to the battery, which has yielded more accurate gauge readings. I plan on running a ground lead to all lights, especially the brake lights.

Edited by JBNeal
component misidentification
Posted

Yes, add more fuses. I've added inline fuses for my horn, wiper motor, and heater motor. Originally the only fuse in the system is for the lights. On my truck it is actually an automatic circuit breaker off the back of the headlight switch.

Merle

Posted

What is the history of UL? I recall them back in the 50's as advertisers made claims that there UL approved products were superior. Did UL underwrite the original pilothouse wiring? Do they underwrite modern automotive wiring circuits? Or do they stick to small consumer products such as toasters, etc?

Posted

Hi Don;

UL provides safety testing services for a myriad of products; from power distribution to gasoline dispensing equipment. We are also now working with Detroit on electric vehicle technologies. We are heavily involed with equipment related to the National Electrical Code.

We have not done anything with vehicle wiring systems to date. However, that may change with our involvement with electric vehicles.

As far as the PH wiring, I think I will run the wiring diagram past some of our electrical engineers and see what they say would be prudent for eletrical protection. I suspect they will say fuse, fuses, fuses!

Brad

Posted

Never have had the need for fuses in my 52 PU which I have owned for the last 37 years! It's simple and it works for me. I like the cloth wiring too as long as it's in good shape.

Bob

Posted
Hi Don;

We are also now working with Detroit on electric vehicle technologies. We are heavily involed with equipment related to the National Electrical Code.

Brad

Too bad the auto techs in the shops need a mybrid of testing equipment to find out the Engine light was on because the Windshield washer fluid was low. (True account)

Can't imagine the chinese fire drills that will go on with the Electric vehicles.

And the bill!

Posted

Greetings, I added a fusible link to the feed wire coming from the starter switch.

I also like to use marine type battery posts. The ones with the wing nuts to attach the battery cables. That way in the event of a short circuit or smoke you can quickly disconnect the battery. No wrenches required.

Jim

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Well here is what I came up with.

I upgraded the electrical system on my truck and thought I would share what I did with you all. I know some will holler at me for not being a purist, but, I have worked too hard to let an electrical fire ruin my day.

Let me know if you see something that does not look correct.

Brad

Dodge Pilothouse Electrical Safety.pdf

Posted

I would recommend fuses or fusible links on all feeds. I plan to use the fusebox from my old 240Z for this very purpose. Having delt with and repaired electrical fire damage, I can safely say that fuses are very important.

Nothing like a foot high greenish flame coming out of a harness without a fuse inline feeding it (seen it and repaired the aftermath, 90's Isuzu Trooper.)

A fusible link on my Caprice just saved it from a major ugly fire when a main harness way up in the dash had the main power feed from the battery for all the interior rub through and short out on the one and only metal harness loom clip (the rest are plastic, thanks GM). Link lasted just long enough for me to find the source of the smoke and see the bright red glow die down.

A battery disconnect where it can be reached is very important as well. Just make sure that you kill the car first and then disconnect so the alternator or generator does not keep it all running and burning without the battery.

Remember, a fusible link is four wire gauges smaller than the wire in the circuit it is feeding. Makes them easier to make from stock wire rather than paying for the link wire if you do not wish to pony up for them.

Posted

I myself would prefer to run one size heavier gauge on all compnents than what was listed. MODERN cloth covered wire is fine for use since it is constructed with the same materials as non cloth and then covered to make it authentic looking.

I plan on using a modern vehicle master circuit breaker and fuse panel when I wire mine.

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