New Member, old dude, old Plymouth

[rockable]

Thanks guys. Still wondering about HP from the flattie. Also, I see all these P numbers, P15, P9, etc. What P is a '41 Plymouth?

[Rodney Bullock]

The first pre war car I had was like yours a 1941. They came as p-11 and p-12 as I remember and someone chime in if I'm wrong. I had two bodies and one car. One was a special deluxe and one was a Deluxe. Some where in there it must be a P-10. I have a 1940 Bus. coupe and it's a P-9

[1940plymouth]

The P-10 is a 1940 Plymouth as is the P-9, the P-10 had more trim

[greg g]

Liz Dexick filled out the original paper work. Perhaps she postranced sum nimbers.

I could also have misremembered the mistake.

[Andydodge]

Rock.........me again..........Andyd from the Hamb.........re your car, with the chrome/stainless trim around the front window and the thin chrome/stainless piece on the door above the beltline chrome piece it could be a P11 but more likely a P12, there should be a plate on the upper part of the firewall that will have P11 or P12 stamped into it........either way its definately a 1941......and more than a nice old car........only thing I was thinking when I looked at the front on pics was that it may have a Dodge bumper bar as the one thats on it has a slight dip in the centre.......I could be wrong tho......either way its still nice.......lol.......andyd

[rockable]

(This is a duplicate post to my information on the H.A.M.B.)

New information on my P12 Plymouth Special Deluxe Business Coupe. It is a P12 and the sn on the engine is P122395I2B, so it's a numbers matching car, I guess. What cubic inch is this motor? HP?

I put the car up on my lift and am even happier now than before. The car has no rust through holes in the fenders and the fenders have never been bent. The frame is very solid, as are the pans. The pans have a couple of small holes no bigger than a quarter in them. I'm sure I could make them larger but we're talking patch panels, not replacement.

The chrome is in amazing shape given its years and all the trim is there. I think I saw one knob that is not correct. It has the chrome (or is it polished SS) glove compartment door/instrument panel. The "wood grain" has been painted over turd brown.

The tires are hard as a rock and it needs shocks, tie rods and a master cylinder repair. What are the chances the master cylinder is repairable with a kit? Or, should I order a new one? The wheel cylinders are not leaking.

Another question. Did the doors not have weather stripping? There is none on the car now and I can't see where it might have been. I'm sure the trunk had it but it does not now.

In short, I bought a very solid car. I can't believe how thick the sheet metal is. I believe I could blast it and would find very little exterior rust to repair. The repairs I found would be easy.

For now, I'm going to get it driveable and cruise around in it for a while. The guy I bought it from drove about two hours from Morganton, NC to Greensboro. He said he had two people try to wave him over and buy the car on the way here. (Remember, it's AutoFair week) He said, "I'll guarantee you have the only one around here." I don't know if that's true, but I've not seen another one..........and that's a good thing.

Edited April 9, 2010 by rockable

[BobT-47P15]

On the master cylinder, check with White Post Restoration shop - they

will install a brass sleeve. I looked around my town for a new master

cyl, finally found one, and it cost about the same as sending to them

I spoke with them on the phone one day - they seem friendly and

helpful.

Link to their site: http://www.whitepost.com/

[rockable]

I've used them before........for Porsches. The do nice work. Thanks.

How long did it take you to get yours back?

Edited April 9, 2010 by rockable

[P-12 Tommy]

(This is a duplicate post to my information on the H.A.M.B.)

New information on my P12 Plymouth Special Deluxe Business Coupe. It is a P12 and the sn on the engine is P122395I2B, so it's a numbers matching car, I guess. What cubic inch is this motor? HP?

I put the car up on my lift and am even happier now than before. The car has no rust through holes in the fenders and the fenders have never been bent. The frame is very solid, as are the pans. The pans have a couple of small holes no bigger than a quarter in them. I'm sure I could make them larger but we're talking patch panels, not replacement.

The chrome is in amazing shape given its years and all the trim is there. I think I saw one knob that is not correct. It has the chrome (or is it polished SS) glove compartment door/instrument panel. The "wood grain" has been painted over turd brown.

The tires are hard as a rock and it needs shocks, tie rods and a master cylinder repair. What are the chances the master cylinder is repairable with a kit? Or, should I order a new one? The wheel cylinders are not leaking.

Another question. Did the doors not have weather stripping? There is none on the car now and I can't see where it might have been. I'm sure the trunk had it but it does not now.

In short, I bought a very solid car. I can't believe how thick the sheet metal is. I believe I could blast it and would find very little exterior rust to repair. The repairs I found would be easy.

For now, I'm going to get it driveable and cruise around in it for a while. The guy I bought it from drove about two hours from Morganton, NC to Greensboro. He said he had two people try to wave him over and buy the car on the way here. (Remember, it's AutoFair week) He said, "I'll guarantee you have the only one around here." I don't know if that's true, but I've not seen another one..........and that's a good thing.

Rock, Your motor should be a 201.3 ci and 87 horsepower.

Tom

[rockable]

Wow. 87 whole horsepower. Oh well, I'll live with it...........for a while.

[greg g]

If you use the search button for master cylinders, there has been a lot of discussion about them. Yess the doors and trunk had weatherstripping. The age old argument os if the trunk stripping goes on the trunk lid or the body. I am from the on the body school.

Robertsmotorparts has the basic rubber needed for these locations. they have an online catalog with illustrations. Should have your brake parts, as well.

Check the links section (button in the gray tool bar above) for lots of parts sources.

Kanter, Antiquespartceller, and mitchellmotors will have front end pieces. but you might be suprised by NAPA, carquest, and other local sources.

Take you distributor number with you when you go to order tune up pieces, as several different models were used and though the dizzys will interchange, the internal parts and caps differ from series to series. The Distributor is best serviced out of the car, one wire, the vacuum advance line, and the hold down bolt once removed allow it to be pulled out. you can put a chalk mark on the block to align the vacuum pot, and mark the location of the rotor, But unlike others these are drivien by a single tand at the bottom of the shaft and ca only go back in correctly or 180 out.

Tune up specs are also in the reference section of the host page of this forum. If you haven't read through that, you should. :ots of good informatioi there. If you decide you need to redo the brakes, you might want to check with Olddaddy of this forum as he makes an adapter for disc brakes. From most experience, the cost is about the same as a total rebuid of the front brakes.

I can;t remember which years had front brakes with steped wheel cylider pistons but it was inthe range of your car. If that is the case there was just some discussion on a Studebaker board regarding stepped wheel cylinders, and it was noted that early ford F100 used them also and the wheel cylinders are thought to be a bolt in to the stock backing plate. And like all ford parts are less expensive than "mopar and studebaker" branded items. Probably worth a look if you are gonna keep the drums.

You might also want to search for brake adjustment threads because these ar lockheed not bendix self centering and have a certain procedure and some will insist a brake gauge for proper adjustment. (another reason for checkig out the adapter kit)

www.rustyhope.com

[mrspeedyt]

nice find! my personal preference is a stock look with perhaps some updating the runningear for your enjoyment and safety. enjoy!

[rockable]

Thanks, Mr Speedy. That's what I will eventually do. I'm thinking restomod at this point. Keep the exterior appearance pretty stock and update the mechanicals and interior. For now, I'll just get it roadworthy and putt around in it. That should be cool for a while.

[BobT-47P15]

Re: re-sleeving a master cyl by White Post......

I've used them before........for Porsches. The do nice work. Thanks.

How long did it take you to get yours back?

I didn't send one to them as I found a N O S unit locally thru a truck

brake company....who had a couple in the warehouse. As I recall, they

have a pretty quick turnaround time.

[Young Ed]

The master should still be available new. Problem is they are expensive! Almost to the point where its cheaper to sleeve the old one.

[blueskies]

I just bought a '41 Plymouth coupe today. Hope that is welcome. I think it's a great looking car.

Nice '41, trade ya...

Pete

[fstfish66]

nice 41 love those coupes

[rockable]

Thanks for the offers guys, but I don't think so.