How things work! Water Distribution Tube

[pflaming]

Mine is clogged and being very difficult to remove. Question: (1) Does the tube go through a series of walls; is it attached only on the ends; can one hood the far end of the tube to pull it out? Since it only carries non presurized water (2) if one went in with a small pressure nozzle alternating with a cleaning rod and cleaned it what chance of success would one have?

Finally, the ports seem to be 1" X 1/8' slots, five of them and are on the top. On my engine the tube is the only delivery route to the cylinders (3) do the six chambers surrounding the cylinders have shared access to each other, (4) does anyone have a cutaway view of the inner chambers of the block?

When I finish this truck I think I will return to the University and get my PHD. That is not nearly as tedious, the rust is only on the brain!!!!

Edited January 31, 2010 by pflaming

[aero3113]

If you attach a slide hammer to the tube it should work its way out. Put a hook on the end of the hammer and hook it to the front of the tube and go at it.

[pflaming]

Define 'front': Do you mean the first port /slot? That is what the picture from the "archives' shows and that is where I am going to start. I noticed on that picture a hole two inches maybe along side the distribution tube egg shaped hole. My block has the same hole but my water pump has a steel plate that covers that hole. Seems I may have a 'bastard' water pump, wonder how I determine the correct one? Well back to search. Thanks

[greg g]

The tube tapers from front to back, as it narrows I believe ths slots get larger. Much like a long stepped down HVAC run. Its primary job is to direct a consistant flow of coolant to the area under the valve seats, the graduated size and slots address this. The secondary feature is to regulate the pace of the flow of coolant through the area The only time the valves get cooled is when they are in contact with their seats, so the tube is an important part of assuring long and good service from the valves. Too quick a coolant flow without directio toward the valve seats would hasten their demise.

It is just a slide in fit with no mechanical connection. The only things holding it in there are corrosion and force of habit.

[grey beard]

Hey Friend Paul,

Just because neither of us has finished his Phd yet doesn't mean we can't both think rationally. You will need a new tube fer shuur, so get one now.

Now look it over and see how it's made. This may help you think of creative ways by which it can be removed. I have been told by others that the tube can be accessed/seen/touched through head bolt stud holes, for it sits just beneath the deck - that part of the block that seals to the head gasket.

Were it mine, I would make a strong hook, using the new tube for a pattern to help you learn what is in there to hook onto. Now grab the hook with a ViseGrip, and snag whatever you can of the remaining tube part, then GENTLY tap the ViseGrip with a small hammer. Be gentle. Each time you break a piece off of the old tube you have less to get hold onto next shot. Also, with the head bolts out, liberally flush some PB blaster or other panther pizz down those rear right side head bolt holes - anything you can do to disabuse that tube from wanting to stick in there should help. You may need to think outa' the box, here. Just anything that will- induce that old distribution tube into realizing that you are smarter than it is should be a true blow for freedom, what?:D:D:D:D

[greg g]

Did you see Jim Yergins post regaurding the puller he made?

[pflaming]

Put the engine on a dolly and moved it to the garage alley door, removed the core plugs and hosed out the insides. Shot a lot of water with a presure nozzle into the distribution tube to clean it also.

I made a puller out of a 1/8 x 1/2 flat iron, weld a 'dorsal' hook on one edge, ground it down to make a nice 'blade' and went in and found the upper slot. I can get a good hold but the 'slam hammer' may not have enough impact force.

A local motor machinist gave me a 1/2 x 1/8 flat with holes in it and told me to drive that in and out and clean the tube from the inside to release the pressure from the crud that was in there. The holes filled with crud and drub it out. Did that, and got a LOT of crud out.

Dave: Will pull the head tomorrow and work from the top down. Maybe with the fresh water it will loosen abit over night. Wonder what would happen if one poured some Oven-off into those head bolt holes? Where does that water end up? What is the lowest drain point on that block?

I appreciate each and every bit of advice. Thanks

[Harvey Tank]

it took me two days to get my DT out. I beat and pulled on it. nothing! Then I went to the Tech. tips here on the forum. did evry thing by the book. put penitrating oil bown the head bolt holes let it soak over nite. next day still would't budge. I finley took a peice of 1/8x1/2x 25" flat bar and ground an edge on one side shaped like a chisle. and drove it in on one side of the DT all the way till I felt it hitting the back of the block. then did the same thing on the other side of the DT. I finaly got it out far enough to get a pair of vicegrips on it then used a slide hammer. pulled it right out. I was sure glad it came out in one peice. Patiances it will come out.

[pflaming]

ruth1932: Did you drive those flat irons down the outside of the tube in a chisel fashion thereby collapsing the tube? My machinist in town said his father on one block drilled a hole in the block and drove the tube out, then threaded the hole and put in a plug. I like your solution better.

Stay tuned!

[Andydodge]

What ended up working for me to get the tube out was using a pair of the LARGEST flat bladed screw drivers I had, about 15-18" long, then I had the block on the ground resting on its bellhousing end, with the front facing up..........inserted both screwdirvers at an angle into the "slot" that the tube fits into and basically wedging each screwdriver into the side of the tube then, push down on the drivers and hopefully it will start to move up/out of the hole..........you can access the tube from some of the intake/exhaust manifold bolt holes on the side of the block, those that piss water out when the bolt is removed go straight into the water tube hole, also there is some access from the top of the block.......I flooded the tube over a period of mths and tried various ways of using a slidehammer, etc but it wasn't till we tried the lever approach with the 2 drivers that they applied sufficent force to both sides of the flatened water tube and with them being pushed both into the tube and downwards onto the block face the thing moved..........its a mongrel of a job, that i'd hate to try with the engine in the car.........mine was out.......good luck.........andyd

[Young Ed]

Something I've never seen come up but if some of these blocks are destined for full rebuilds I think you'd be better off to leave the tube in there and let it go in the hot tank when the block gets cleaned. I gotta think that soaking would loosen up the tube and make it a lot easier to remove.

[Harvey Tank]

Pflaming, I wish I could find my removal tool. I could take a photo of it . this is a simple drawing it. I hope it makes sence.

[pflaming]

ruth: put your drawing on my screen background, blew up nice and clear, do that a lot on small pictures. I see what you mean and did. You collapsed the tube from the outside the pulled it out.

Ed: yes putting it in a hot bath would have to help. Today I removed the head took a good steam pressure sprayer and air hose to the inside of the block, it is nice and clean now, can now see all the way down the tube. Tomorrow. . .don't know yet which method to use.

Learned the value of flushing out the radiator once a year. What a mess.