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Posted

Joe it wouldn't be big pieces like he had in the picture. It would be little tiny chips or particles of them that could circulate in the oil.

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Posted

Visited with my machinist this weekend and brought him my original damaged block and the crank. After discussing it with him I have decided to go with re-sleeving the original block. Time will tell if that is the correct approach.

Jim Yergin

Posted

Jim I hope you can get your engine to a reliable state. You must be very frustrated about the situation, but there is nothing like a few hundred trouble free miles to relieve it. Keep plugging. cylinder liners are used in may applications especially heavy duty trucks and equipment, so it should be a satisfactory repair.

Posted

I've heard of this being done but don't know anything about the process. I know the sleeve has a press fit. How do they get the old one out? Bore it? Do they freeze the sleeve in nitrogen to shrink it then press it in?

Posted

Jim the sleeve would be an addition. The cylinder would be bored to what ever size in necessary to the sleeve size less a thousandth or two, then the sleeve would be pressed in. This could be done with a lubricant or by freezing of the insert 1st. the sleeve will replace the cylider wall material that was removed then it would be bored ad honed to the size dictated bythe piston.

A lot of early engines with aluminum blocks had cylinder liners for increased wear resistance and duribility. The engineers and metalurgists have since come up with alloys and even ceramics that make this unecessary. Cylinder liners have been sandard practice for small engines to railroad/marine diesels for as long as there have been engines.

Posted

In the flatheads there is no old one. Typically you'd install a sleeve back to standard so in most cases it'd be .060 thick. Just an example really there are a lot of combinations. Now in Jims case it'd probably be sleeved to match the other 5 holes. Not sure if that means they'd have to bore that one cyl bigger to make room for the sleeve or not.

Posted

Jim , Been gone for a while and just saw this thread . Seems as though your sticking with the original motor and having it sleaved but i have a p-15 motor sitting in the garage thats supposedly been rebuilt about 7 years ago with 0miles . Havent verified anything just took the motor out chauked it up in the garage . let me know if things dont work out on the road to recovery . Good Luck !

Mike

Posted

Jim that sucks but I guess isn't too surprising. Try not to use up 200 posts looking for a new rod :)

Posted
Jim that sucks but I guess isn't too surprising. Try not to use up 200 posts looking for a new rod :)

Ed,

For sure I won't go down that road. BTW, isn't the 10 day ban about over?

i bet that engine made a he!! of a noise when it went!

Actually, the car just stopped running. No big noise.

Jim Yergin

Posted
Well, its just another of life's mysteries, I guess.

I can imagine how closely you will be listening the first time it runs again. Will you ever be able to relax?

Good question.

Jim Yergin

Posted

Jim, I was telling my machinist about the piston hitting the head and he said that they use silly putty to test the clearance. Will your guy do this for you? When I changed the heads on my hot rod they did the test because of the big valves. You are very mature, I would be trying to walk down to the machine shop. I can be so impatient sometimes:rolleyes: I was reading EGGE website last night and they do the babbit process. They have the rod you need it to bad they are in California we use to have shops like that here, it helps that they are third generation machinist. Good luck with everything Jim.

Posted

Rodney,

As far as I know the piston did not hit the head, it just came a part because of a defect. I ordered a replacement connecting rod from VPW this morning. Fortunately I do not have to deal with having the rod bearings babbitted, Chrysler used insert bearings on the engine.

My arrangement with my machinist is a little unusual. He actually works in a shop up in western Maryland where he spends the week. He comes home to Virginia on weekends so I drop off and pick up parts on the weekends.

Hope you are doing OK with the snow.

Jim Yergin

Posted

Right, I am the one that needed a babbit process. I was just saying. They have it all there, This 1934 Graham I was helping a guy with needed a babbit bearing. He was so spooked that he got insert bearings for the motor. I had no idea EGGE had all that going on there until I read their website. I read they had the motor kit for my Stude as well. I don't know why but your right all those mopar motors had insert bearings and that a very good thing. I think I am leaning towards building a RED RAM hemi for my Plymouth. I saw one at Carlise last spring. They wanted just 100.00 dollars for this complete motor so If I get it I can take my time building it. We are dealing with the snow very well. No power outages and we have plenty food. I ever baked a lemon cake yesterday:)

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