Nice When It Happens - Kinda OT/Kinda On Topic

[RobertKB]

Took my manifold from the '48 Dodge D25 long block down to the local engine machining shop and parts store. Went to the machine shop/engine rebuilders with my dirty manifold (see first picture). Had a new heat riser kit for it. Guy at the desk was an old student of mine and didn't know a whole lot about what I wanted but was smart enough to call the old timer from the back. His advice, leave the bloody thing (heat riser) alone because it will outlast you. Little play in the shaft and he said the heat riser gasket looked good. He then asked when I wanted the manifold and I replied that there was no rush. He told me to go to the parts store and get a coffee and by the time I was done he would be too. I had to go to the parts side of the business anyway to see if they had any long manifold bolts. I was not hopeful but the parts guy I always deal with comes back with a container and lots of manifold bolts. We found ones that will work and even had the brass nuts. (See picture two). Went back to the machine shop and my manifold was sitting on the counter. (Pictures 3 and 4). $35 which I thought very reasonable. I love it when guys do only what is needed and actually talk you out of doing unnecessary work. I seldom leave this place without the part I need as well. There are still people and companies out there that treat you right.

Now I just have to paint the manifold and install.

Edited January 8, 2010 by RobertKB

[randroid]

RobertKB,

Am I to understand that this guy machined the flanges and sandblasted the whole manifold for $35? Plus the gaskets?

W. C. Fields said to never smarten-up a chump.

-Randy

[RobertKB]

RobertKB,

Am I to understand that this guy machined the flanges and sandblasted the whole manifold for $35? Plus the gaskets?

W. C. Fields said to never smarten-up a chump.

-Randy

He machinged the flanges and sandblasted the manifold for $35.20 including tax. The heat riser and its gasket were left alone on his recommendation. I love old time mechanics who actually have worked on these old parts at some time in their career. I have a set of gaskets for reinstalling the manifold but needed two long manifold bolts. I had ordered some out of the US but the dummies sent me the short ones. Should have gone to this local place first. Each bolt was under $2 and the brass nuts were less. I think I paid around $11 for the four bolts and nuts. I only needed two but always like to have spares and who knows about availability in the future.

[greg g]

Very nice. So in the backfround is a Nabob coffee can, is that where you keep you expensive and prominent hardware?????

Over on the studebaker truck board, there was a posting about using boiled linseed oil as a rust preventative, surface protection deal.

Wonder if it would work on the manifolds to keep them lookig that way or if the heat would just toast it off????

And if Linseed oil is made from flax seeds shouldn't it be called flaxdseed oil? And what is that stuff called Flaxseed oil. And if linen is made from flax should it also be called flaxen, or is linen because it it grown from plants that produce linseeds? Oh Flax seed oil is edible and linseed oil is for paint (but it edilbe to) and how come Canola oil comes from squeezing rape seeds. And now we eat it but it used to be used for lubricatig steam engines. And how you Canadians can't keep these oils straight but sell us most of your petroleum oil.

But I digress,, your maifolds look great.

[RobertKB]

Thanks, Greg. Coffee can contains old manifold bolts, brass nuts, etc. Coffee cans, yogurt containers, and potato salad containers are my favourites for most things to be kept in. I have used lots while working on the '48 this winter.

I will likely use Tremclad (Rustoleum) aluminum on them again as I did 30 years ago. There is actually still some silver on the exhaust manifold and lots on the intake in the first picture. I find that whatever you use on the exhaust manifold burns off eventually so I will just use something cheap.

Interesting digression on the different oils. Where I live they grow a lot of canola which is the PC term for rapeseed and we have a huge plant in the industrial area of the city that make all kinds of products from canola beside the oil itself.

Nabob Tradition is my favourite coffee and I drink at least three cups to get going in the morning.

Edited January 8, 2010 by RobertKB

[mackster]

manifold looks good and the price was right! I love the old fashion mechanics..Ive been told enough times, junior dont mess with it if it aint broke!

Say...whats the overall lenght on those long bolts and are they 3/8 fine thread? is that right??????

I need to get me some for this weekend. . .

any info is appreciated.

[RobertKB]

manifold looks good and the price was right! I love the old fashion mechanics..Ive been told enough times, junior dont mess with it if it aint broke!

I need to get me some for this weekend. . .

any info is appreciated.

The original bolts as seen in the picture is 3 1/2" long and the new one is 4". The end that goes into the block in 3/8 Coarse and the end the nut goes onto is 3/8 Fine. I will likely trim a bit off the fine thread end as it is too long and you know how these threads get over time. The less thread the nut has to come off the better. Likely take about 3/8" off because the coarse end is longer too. I believe it goes into the water jacket so will use anti-sieze on it as I would anyway. Hope this helps.

[greg g]

Nabob (N) a prominant person, usually with wealth and influence. From Nawab, a term from India refering to a tribal or community leader, person of some rank and influence.

[Niel Hoback]

Greg, I am going to have to wait until later in the day to read your posts when I am more awake. You done confused me back to bed!

[55 Fargo]

Hi Robert, the manifold looks great, what great service too, gotta like those old timers that are still in the biz..........Fred

[mackster]

The original bolts as seen in the picture is 3 1/2" long and the new one is 4". The end that goes into the block in 3/8 Coarse and the end the nut goes onto is 3/8 Fine. I will likely trim a bit off the fine thread end as it is too long and you know how these threads get over time. The less thread the nut has to come off the better. Likely take about 3/8" off because the coarse end is longer too. I believe it goes into the water jacket so will use anti-sieze on it as I would anyway. Hope this helps.

thank you robert! thats what I needed to know! Im getting back on my desoto. I need all the help I can get. Thank You...

[alan32433]

I have a question about your heat riser as pictured. I though the thermostat shield was supposed to be off centered to the right at around 1PM position so that as the thermostat spring heated and expanded, the weight of the thermostat shield and exhaust flow would close the valve (rotating the shaft clockwise). When the valve is closed that means exhaust is routed straight through the manifold rather than heating the intake.

I see in your picture that your thermostat shield is off centered to the left at around 11AM Your setup may be correct and if that's the case I'd like to know so I can re-think the way mine is set up.

I replaced my heat riser primarily because the bushings and the shaft were both really worn and loose.

[greg g]

The shaft rotated full clockwise puts the flap in the horizontal osition closing off the flow of exhaust to the intake.

[RobertKB]

As Greg stated, the shaft rotates clockwise. All three of my flatheads are the same.

[alan32433]

The shaft rotated full clockwise puts the flap in the horizontal osition closing off the flow of exhaust to the intake.

Correct, that's what I said in my post. Rotating the shaft clockwise routes the exhaust straight out of the manifold not heating the intake.

My question is: What position should the thermostatic shield be in when the manifold is cold (like the one pictured), 11AM position or 1PM position.

[RobertKB]

Correct, that's what I said in my post. Rotating the shaft clockwise routes the exhaust straight out of the manifold not heating the intake.

My question is: What position should the thermostatic shield be in when the manifold is cold (like the one pictured), 11AM position or 1PM position.

Gotcha. All mine are at 11 o'clock and all open fully and can't be made to go further clockwise once the manifold is good and hot. Hope this helps. Everything is pretty well adjustable anyway. I live in a cold climate and not that I drive my cars much in winter but when new you would have wanted the full benefit of the heat riser.

[alan32433]

Thanks Robert, that makes sense. When I set mine up, I figured I should set the shield at 1PM so there would be a slight gravity pressure against the tight (cold) thermostat spring. But I suppose the exhaust gas pressure against the valve would be enough to lift the shield up from the 11AM position (clockwise). So that's where I'll set mine.