Joe Flanagan Posted January 4, 2010 Report Posted January 4, 2010 I'm thinking about taking my radiator to a shop to be tested. I know from a previous thread that the truest test is a flow test. Whether they will do this or not, I don't know but I would like to see if it leaks under pressure. As I understand it, the cooling system operates under about 4 pounds of pressure. Is it risky to take an old radiator like this to a shop that might put it under too much pressure and damage it? Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 4, 2010 Report Posted January 4, 2010 Joe: Prior to taking the radiator out of the car or truck I would callthe radiator shop and tell them that you have an older radiator fro the 40's that is not a pressurized system. Ask them if they have every tested this type of unit and how they do the testing. MAke sure they understand that this is an older system and that you can not get a replacement very easily. Call before they do the work. They might not beable to test but might recommend someone else. Call first. rich Hartung Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Posted January 5, 2010 Thanks, Rich. I was concerned about it being damaged. It seems to me I read somewhere that you could apply the four pounds of pressure in a home test. Does anybody remember this? Quote
1949P17BC Posted January 5, 2010 Report Posted January 5, 2010 Joe, fill and drain it a few times, if it runs clear you are good. A visual inspection can point out any potentiallyt bad spots (leaks) If you do have tohave it fixed, be carefullthey can get pricey quick. Quote
Young Ed Posted January 5, 2010 Report Posted January 5, 2010 The few we've had trouble with failed the test from the manual that has you filling it with water and then seeing how high the water comes out of the bottom. There is actually a spec for how high the water should rise. Isn't it a little too cold to be playing with water? Quote
dirty dan Posted January 5, 2010 Report Posted January 5, 2010 The few we've had trouble with failed the test from the manual that has you filling it with water and then seeing how high the water comes out of the bottom. There is actually a spec for how high the water should rise. Isn't it a little too cold to be playing with water? As I recall, my manual says 5-6 inches spout of water from the bottom when opened with the radiator full. Mine only reached about 2-1/2". Still, I can idle the engine all day in the south Louisiana summer without the engine temp getting over 185. I can't imagine it would get much warmer on the road with a decent air flow through the radiator. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Posted January 5, 2010 When I first pulled the radiator I performed the 6-inch test mentioned in the manual and it passed. Water seems to run through it freely and no crud came out of it. And yes, Ed, it is way too cold to be playing with water. I only mentioned testing it because I've read some threads in the past few months where people had trouble with their radiators and I got the impression that the only surefire way to make sure it was OK was to take it to a shop. While that's probably true, since some of you guys have performed the do-it-yourself test and have had no problems, I think I might just install it and see how it goes. I'll have the clip off and will have access to everything, so if there's a problem, I don't think it will be all that difficult to address it. Quote
dirty dan Posted January 5, 2010 Report Posted January 5, 2010 When I first pulled the radiator I performed the 6-inch test mentioned in the manual and it passed. Water seems to run through it freely and no crud came out of it. And yes, Ed, it is way too cold to be playing with water. I only mentioned testing it because I've read some threads in the past few months where people had trouble with their radiators and I got the impression that the only surefire way to make sure it was OK was to take it to a shop. While that's probably true, since some of you guys have performed the do-it-yourself test and have had no problems, I think I might just install it and see how it goes. I'll have the clip off and will have access to everything, so if there's a problem, I don't think it will be all that difficult to address it. I doubt you're going to have any cooling problems with that sort of flow. Hook her up, fill her up, then check for leaks. Watch you don't get your nose or fingers into the fan with that clip off. Fill it to the top and let the engine get to temp. The radiator will spit some water out of the overflow tube until it finds what level it likes. My coolant stays about 1-1/4" from the top of the radiator. My car isn't road drivable right now, but I still crank the engine once every two or so weeks and move it under it's own power a little to make sure everything stays working (and because it's fun). If you do the same, just keep an eye on your water level, you'll see if it's losing water. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Posted January 5, 2010 Thanks a lot for the pointers, Dan. I'll be sure to watch out for the fan. Quote
Robert Horne Posted January 5, 2010 Report Posted January 5, 2010 I ran a test on my 38 on a 94 degree day. Let it idle for about an hour in the hot sun, no cap, just a cooking temp gauge in the radiator. Engine temp went to 191. I did the test the next day with the cap on, about the same temp, 190. Not bad for a long time idle on a hot day. I think my car would be okay if I got stuck in traffic, but I believe I would have a difficult time. A friend of mine went to the Pigeon Forge Tenn. rod meet in September, seen alot of big engine cars on the side of the road overheating. Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted January 6, 2010 Report Posted January 6, 2010 (edited) The test you are doing are fine I guess if you never let the car heat up. When car is on the road you have varible water flow. The faster you go the faster the circulation is, then when you slow down or stop the temp is going up. Now the block is hot, the head is hot. The water flow has slowed, is your radiator cooling the motor now? Once the iron gets hot the true test is if you can get the temp back down. This is very difficult when air flow is minimal. High speed driving is going to put added pressure on the radiator as well. When a radiator shop takes a look at that honey comb core they will know it's old. Most radiator shops want to recore the radiator. They will use your tanks however the cooling core is what they want to replace. Yes it is expensive. The real good shops have a flow testing machine. How well your radiator flows determines if it can cool that motor after the iron gets hot. Most of my street rod buddies are using aluminum now as it cools very well with minimal air flow. These companies build to suit. Edited January 6, 2010 by Rodney Bullock Quote
greg g Posted January 6, 2010 Report Posted January 6, 2010 These are buy it now on ebay, looks like a decent price if its a bolt in. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1949-50-51-52-Plymouth-Coupe-3-Row-Aluminum-Radiator_W0QQitemZ150401492958QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2304a0a7de Quote
dirty dan Posted January 6, 2010 Report Posted January 6, 2010 These are buy it now on ebay, looks like a decent price if its a bolt in.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1949-50-51-52-Plymouth-Coupe-3-Row-Aluminum-Radiator_W0QQitemZ150401492958QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2304a0a7de $225 with shipping looks like a fair price. Quote
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