normf@centurytel.net Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 I have a 1953 B-4-B which is restored and now just taking care of a few squawks....one of those issues is the outer axel seal on the left side. Two issues are on my mind. First, does anyone have a part number or specification for that seal? Second....does anyone have a source for that part. Third, can anyone tell me if the brake backing plate needs to be pulled to replace that seal? Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Hey there Norm, haven't heard from you in a while. Glad to hear your truck is close to road worthy. I have the seal numbers at work, but I did a quick lookup in my parts catalog and did a cross reference on Napaonline. Here's what I came up with Inner Seal P/N 1139897 crosses to a National Oil Seal P/N 14423 Outer Seal P/N 1409902 crosses to a National Oil Seal P/N 14359 The outer seal is pressed into the brake backing plate, so if you're careful you could replace it with the backing plate in place. But if the outer seal is leaking oil that means that the inner seal is leaking oil. There should only be grease between the two seals to lubricate the bearing. I highly recommend pulling the brake plate and the axle shaft and replace both seals. I would also check the axle breather to be sure it's open. A plugged breather will cause excess pressure in the axle that could push oil past the seals. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 The OE Dodge truck Outer seal #1117814 was superceded by 1409902. 1117814 would be a good # too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 Yup, that number was crossed out in my parts manual and the 1409902 number was written in. I checked this morning, those numbers are correct. The seals that I got from Napa were actually SKF, but the part numbers are the same. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austinsailor Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 I just replaced all the seals on my 1/2 ton with NAPA SKF seals. Seemed very cheap, very flimsy. And, as I drove the seals in the axle housings, the springs in each poped out, making them less effective. And they cost about $20 each, not cheap. Anyone else finding them to be inferior? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 I didn't have any problems with mine. They seemed like a normal modern lip seal to me. SKF is a well known bearing and seal manufacturer. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normf@centurytel.net Posted December 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Merle, Thanks much for the NAPA part numbers for the axel seals and for the advice on the breather. The truck is in running condition and licensed and driven occasionally. I have another problem that has me stumped. The engine was overhauled and has approx. 11,000 miles since the O.H. New points, condensor, plugs, wires,rotor, cap, coil....and it starts very hard....cranks and cranks and the goes....runs good, smooth, normal, Carb had complete kit installed w/needle and seat and etc. New fuel pump..... I've messed with timing and that seems not to help..... Any ideas????? Norm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 I just replaced all the seals on my 1/2 ton with NAPA SKF seals. Seemed very cheap, very flimsy. And, as I drove the seals in the axle housings, the springs in each poped out, making them less effective. And they cost about $20 each, not cheap.Anyone else finding them to be inferior? I agree that these seals are very cheap/lightweight and way too pricey for the quality. The lip to hold the spring on is extremely thin. You have to very carefully tap the seal into place otherwise the spring will pop off. Grease will not hold the spring in place either if you bang the seal a little too hard. I don't know of any other manufacturer that provides current stock usa seals for the axle/hub grease seals for our cars and 1/2-3/4 ton pilot house trucks. I use to be able to get National/victor seals at the local parts stores.. They were heavier much better quality seals. Less demand- Lesser quality parts I guess. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Normf@centurytel.net,I did this work in mine B3-B 1952 in april/may this year.I put all inner and outer new seals,put a new gasket between the bearing and brake backing plate(I decide do this,but didn't see this gasket on manual).Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Fernando, There shouldn't be a gasket behind the brake backing plate. There are shims that can go between the backing plate and the axle housing. These adjust the bearing preload. The shims also act like a gasket to seal up the area. If you used gasket material it will be too soft and can work itself out, causing everything to become loose. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Excuse me Merle,but I shared at that time all the pics about my work for this forum and nobody noticed and said nothing to me.Nobody knew?nobody red/visit when I shared all the pics including the gaskets?If someone said me something I had changed my work.But I was alone at this moment.Now I dont think to change.Thanks.PS:I will show this pics that I shared in the past for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Sorry Fernando. I must have missed that post. If I had seen that before I surely would have said something. If you got it all good and tight it'll probably be alright for now, but I would keep an eye on it. Periodic inspections will show if the gasket is working out and the brake plate is getting loose. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Ok,thanks.I will always inspecting it.I thought I did a good work with my heart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 04-22-2009, 05:35 PM Fernando Mendes Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 233 Gasket with 5 holes? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Is this gasket(aforests) with five holes preached in manual? Fernando Mendes Merle this is the message I put asking about the 5 holes backing plate gasket(without pic). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 I read through that thread again. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=15033 It appears that Young Ed did tell you that it is a shim that is necessary for adjustment of the bearings. I guess I didn't read the rest of the posts close enough, at that time, to catch the fact that you made and used a gasket in that area. I know that you don't want to tear it all apart again, I wouldn't want to either. However, I'm concerned that your bearings may not be set right. You may have too much, or too little, end play in your bearings. And, as I said earlier, the gasket may not hold up over a long period of time. There should be thin metal shims in there. The number of shims depends on what is needed to get the proper bearing setup. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 Yes,now I saw that youngEd answered to me.I didn't understand what does shim means.It is a metal gasket,right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 The shims are basically a metal gasket yes. They are cut out of various thicknesses of metal to move the backing plate futher away or closer to the axle end. This gives the outer bearing race a spot to move to to set the load against it. My 46 pickup when I got it had no shims at all. The rear end was toast! Now I can't say how long if at all it was driven like that so it could very likely be a coincedence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 Right... like Ed says... The shims being metal won't compress like a paper gasket would so they'll hold their shape and keep the bearing settings correct. They are quite thin, maybe the thickness of a piece of paper. More shims will increase the bearing play and less will tighten up the bearings. Here's a page from my service manual about adjusting the bearing play. Remember though that both axles must be installed when measuring and adjusting. And here's a cut-a-way view of the bearing and seal area. for your reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 Ok thanks Merle.I understood.I will print the page from your service manual and read carefully.My PU didn't have the shims when I disassemble the rear axle shaft in may.I never travel with it.It only runs here in the city. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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