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Door Panel Dismantle


55 Fargo

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Hi all, decided to take the right door panel for my car to the work bench, been sitting in the shed since 2005, and it is rough,and dirty let me tell you.

Okay got the first layer of material off, evidently it was recovered once upon a time, then got down to the OEM material.

First before the material removal, removed the stainless trim, this is Windsor Trim, Royal has not stainless trim,on the door panels so not sure how I wound up with these door panels.

I then carefully removed all the material, and old batting/isulation.

Next removed very carefully the embossed pattern backing, measuring and marking it's location on the door panel, I will be using these again.

Now I have a door panel I can use for a pattern template, it can't be used again, it's too rough.

Chrysler door panels, did not go right to the bottom of the door, but to about 5 inches away from the bottom, the last 5 inches, was carpet, with a surged edge, and rubber strips that fit along the bottom of the door to clip the bottom hanging carpet onto the door.

Now I am not sure I will follow this style again, may just make a larger panel backer and go with material to the bottom of the door, not convinced either way yet.

Now I have to select some backer material for the panel, have heard corroplast works well, and even 1/8 masonite panel board, any suggestions for material.

Will buy the backer soon, make the door panels, what tools are needed to make the holes for the clips to attach the panels to doors, the little squares may not so easy to make, what have some of you guys done.

How about batting, under the material any suggestions?

Should I uise spray adhesive to attach the material, or use very small arrow staples.

Once the car seats are out, which is real soon, then will get busy, did not make kick panel patterns yet, will make those soon, I have lots of door panel clips at least....Thanx Fred

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Fred,

If you go to my website, then click on interior restoration it will show the backer board, with the holes for the clips, etc. I used automotive backer board and it's a water resistant fiberboard (like original panels). I cut the panels and clip holes with a craftsman's knife. Used a hole saw for the round holes where the window cranks and door handle go through.

If you use a hardboard material, use a saber saw to cut it and the clip holes out.

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You can get the automotive backer board from automotive trim shops. They usually have it i 4 by 8 pieces and will sell you either a whole piece or take you old one and they can size it up out of stuff they may have already cut. Some is plain and some may have an embosed leather texture on the surface. Coroplast is light and easy to work with but it is a little on the thick side.

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Bob, that custom interior is not bad at all, mine doesn't have to be exact OEM.

The first car, man would i like to have some parts from it, the front seat bottom for one thing, I am working with real junk, with no option up here, not a lot of these cars around....Thanx Fred

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You can get the automotive backer board from automotive trim shops. They usually have it i 4 by 8 pieces and will sell you either a whole piece or take you old one and they can size it up out of stuff they may have already cut. Some is plain and some may have an embosed leather texture on the surface. Coroplast is light and easy to work with but it is a little on the thick side.

Thanx Greg, we havea a big auto upholstery shop in the City, they selll a lot of supplies too, seems to me he told me he had pieces a guy could buy as you mentioned.

I would like to know if anyone has had success with the corroplast, is this material strong enough to use asa backer board.....Fred

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The first, original car, was bought by a fellow I know in an auction when the local

Mopar dealer went out of business back in the 70s. He's had it sitting in his driveway,

and it was covered for a long time.....and would probably sell it now for some price.

I think it only shows 49,000 miles. But it's sat so long, it needs most everything

redone. Pretty straight, with minimal (i think) rust. He said he started it last about

5 or 6 years ago.

100_6533.jpg

100_6547.jpg

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I just looked at a small piece of corroplast sheet I had, it is 1/8 of an inch thick, light but very rigid.

I tried the stainless trim, it pokes right through it no problem, also put on a door panel clip, it held very well, so this stuff may be what I am going to use.

Here is a possible plan of attack, make panel backer from corroplast, use 3m spray adhesive to secure the embossed pieces, use thin foam or duct insulation roll, and attach material and glue on, this should be the ticket, or may be the ticket.

I am wondering if I should use rubber roof membrane to go onto the doors themselves first, before attaching the panels.

I could make my kick panels wiht same, as well as the panel that goes behind the back seat, in the trunk area, could also attach some duct insulation on this for sound deadening.

That's what I love about this forum, many good ideas on how to do things, and usually with a shoe string budget in mind....Fred

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These old cars had a thick tar like substance sprayed on the inside of the door as a sound deadener and this is what gives the door the nice "thunk" when it closes. This usually becomes very brittle over time and should be replaced. On my coupe, I used some carpet underlay and used a spray adhesive to hold it in place. I took the door panels off for the repaint and it is still in place. If you don't put something there the doors sound tinny when you close them. It's why they have a sound deadener on the roof as well, not just for insulation purposes.

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I have seen several guys glue a thin sheet of plastic to the back of the backer board to goes against the door. Thsi helps to stop any moisture from getting to the board when the windows are down and whenthe rain goes down inside the door.

Glue your padding maternial onto the backer board and keep it tight and pull it with some vise grips that have the wide flat metal on the ends to stretch the material. Then you beable to find a person that has a commercial sewing machine and then stitch the outer ends to the backer board with the trim material.

Just some thoughts. Also might stop and ask a car upholstry guy for some ideas. They are alwasy glad to provide help when they see what you are doing and might even provide some tricks of the trade.

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

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Today bought door panel material at Upholstery supply house. It is black panel backer board, 1/8 of an inch thick, 4 ft x 5ft, bought 3 pieces for roughly $50.00, more money than coroplast, but the real mccoy panel backer supposedly, cut some to shape, very rigid.

Tomorrow will cut all holes, for cranks, arm rests, clips, then will tweak the fit on the door, hopefully all goes well.

Anybody else use this type of panel board before.....Fred

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Fred' date='

Evidently you have not visited my website. I used the same backer board for my coupe several years ago. Just click on the link next to my signature. I think mine was about 1/16th thick, or just under that.[/quote']

Hi Norm, cannot access your webpage, did you change something, is anybody else having difficulty with this?

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Here is a pic of my first door panel prototype, still need to make the bottom clip holes, but so far not too bad.

I am reluctant to try them on the doors with all the clips, as removing will stress the board no doubt......Fred

post-114-13585351981565_thumb.jpg

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Fred,

I would go ahead and mount it to the door to make sure you have all the holes in the proper location, etc. This is new backer board and it's a lot stronger than the old stuff you took off. You don't want to put the covering on, then find out you have a hole in the wrong place. I think I had mine on and off several times before covering them. Just remove them carefully. Place a screwdriver or putty knife between the door and the panel right next to the clip and pry it off. The clip will pop right out of the hole without damaging your panel that way.

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Fred' date='

I would go ahead and mount it to the door to make sure you have all the holes in the proper location, etc. This is new backer board and it's a lot stronger than the old stuff you took off. You don't want to put the covering on, then find out you have a hole in the wrong place. I think I had mine on and off several times before covering them. Just remove them carefully. Place a screwdriver or putty knife between the door and the panel right next to the clip and pry it off. The clip will pop right out of the hole without damaging your panel that way.[/quote']

Okay, will try that, just don't want to do damage, but prying them off correctly should be the answer.....

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Fred,

Do you have the door sweep for the bottom of the door? It goes between the door panel and the door. It's there to prevent air and water from getting into the car. It's just a thick piece of flat rubber that goes along the whole bottom edge of the door. It's also held on by the same clips as the door panels. Holes in the rubber line up the same.

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Fred' date='

Do you have the door sweep for the bottom of the door? It goes between the door panel and the door. It's there to prevent air and water from getting into the car. It's just a thick piece of flat rubber that goes along the whole bottom edge of the door. It's also held on by the same clips as the door panels. Holes in the rubber line up the same.[/quote']

Yes I have them, will be using them, they are in only fair shape, but will be used.....Fred

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Door panel backer board on car door, fit is pretty good. Still need to make clip holes for the bottom, the ones that go through the door rubber sweep. Will makea carbon copy for the other door. then the back panels, then recovery time....

A pic of the door sweep, and the embossing that is glued onto the panel, the cloth is then glue tightly to this to give the embossed design in the panel, I have mixed feelings about using this stuff, as it stinks like crazy.

Also the last 5 inches along the entire bottom on the OEM panels is carpet, with a surged edge with trim, that is attached to the material, and fastens to the bottom of the panel, not sure I can do this with my novice skill, but it looks fancy smantcy, thats for sure....Fred

post-114-13585351982797_thumb.jpg

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Edited by Rockwood
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