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Oil Change


T120

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...Well,there you go, I decided to change the oil in my Dodge today and went with the Fred (Rockwood) recommendation of using Shell Rotella-figuring he had done extensive research on engine oil lubricants;then I discover he has switched brands.-This is after I have changed the oil using designer quality lubricant at a great expense on my part.;)The weather was great I decided to use the driveway as pictured.I'm not worried - should be just fine :)

post-423-13585351595402_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the reminder Robert.Yes to your question.That's the plan.Lil and I are looking forward to it.Looks like nice weather too :)

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Thanks Norm,Still running okay as well.I'd love to make some of the trips you've documented Norm.Keep it up.:)

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Hi Ralph, car looks fantastic, Shell Rotella T still has over 1200 PPMs off ZDDP, which is a good for our engines, the 15 W 40, works well under hot leaods too.

I am currently on Castrol 20W 50, and 15% Lucas oil stabilizer ( love this snake oil) but next oil change going back to Rotella T 15 W 40, wiht Lucas oil stabilizer.

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I'll probably just run with the oil Fred.I haven't had a problem to date.The engine runs well.Oil pressure is fine.After spending the big bucks on the oil I briefly considered removing the oil pan and cleaning the grunge,but I didn't have a gasket on hand,so that will be on the agenda with the next oil change.

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I'll probably just run with the oil Fred.I haven't had a problem to date.The engine runs well.Oil pressure is fine.After spending the big bucks on the oil I briefly considered removing the oil pan and cleaning the grunge,but I didn't have a gasket on hand,so that will be on the agenda with the next oil change.

Yes I also need to drop the oil pan and clean it out, I have the gasket, will do next month.

The las time I removed the valve chamber covers, last year, they were very clean inside, no sludge at all.

I bought the Lucas on sale, I don't need it either, but it does not hurt either....

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Not on my car, the engine was hot tanked and machined and I washed it in a 35 gallon garbage can in soapy water until a white rag could be wiped on any surface and come out clean. I assembled the engine myself and every thing was clean but the oil does not stay nice and shiny clean. It only takes a few hundred miles to darken the oil.

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  • 6 months later...

Will the cleaning be done with real steam as it once was or high pressure water? The high pressure water can mess up the fabric covering on the original wires. High pressure wash using water can damage all kinds of things if not used by a knowelgable operator, I know, I messed up all types of under hood stuff in a 57 Studerbaker pick up I once had by pressure washing the engine with hot water. In places all I had after high pressure washing was stranded bare wires running to the generator and to the voltage regulator.

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Yep, washed the engine compartment on my '48 after I got it all put back together years ago...then got to pull the starter & later the generator back out to clean the innards as both stopped working. It seems that the oily residue that I wanted to clean off of the motor deposited itself on the brushes and resistance went sky high. On the bright side, this made for good practice as it only took about half the time to do this the second time around. :rolleyes:

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I use the stuff like simple green and Castor makes a purple cleaner in one gallon bottles as well as smaller sizes. I always follow the instructions for cleaning on the bottle. I use a garden sprayer to apply it then a nozzle that has a wand on it and an auxiliary hose for pulling liquid soap into the water stream to wash the engine and compartment down then just clear water. I have done this on every car that I have owned and have only had trouble one time and that was on my daughters fuel injected late model car and it ruined the controller that controlled the injectors and the firing, cost me $350.00 for a new circuit board that fit into the distributor.

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