D24 with head studs

[moose]

I got the chance finally to start disassembling the 230 for my Model A. This was a running motor from a friends 46 Dodge. He couldn't get it to run the way he wanted it to, so when he got offered a free 305 Chevy, I got his flathead.

This thing must have been rebuilt some time ago. It has studs. Anybody run into a stock motor with studs? Also the tops of each piston says 342-(piston #) Maybe are these overbore? If so, how much? Under the tappet covers there was a thick coat of oil gunk, the timing cover too. The timing chain was looser than I had ever seen. No wonder he couldn't get it to run right.

Do you guys think all that gunk came from blow-by? The cylinder walls look pretty good, with only a small ridge at the top. All the valves and seats are in great shape, and I'm only going to lap them when I put them back. The replacement timing chain that I have is from a later motor, and it isn't as wide, so the sprocket will have to be changed too. Anybody have any cautions or recommendations about that or anything else I'm up against?

[realgonekatt]

I was thinking of using studs so I could top em with chrome acorns. I have a couple of studs in both my 218"s but, mostly head bolts. My "spare" looks similar, I say just bore over and lap the valves. Thats my plan anyhow. That gunk looks about par for course.

[Jerry Roberts]

Moose , Sometimes the top groves for the piston rings get worn badly even though there isn't much of a ridge on the top of the cylinder . I think that you might as well at least take a look-see . The older oil was non detergent and that would have added to the sludge . My engine ( 1939 dodge car ) had head studs too , these were replaced with bolts at the rebuilder . The rebuilder didn't like studs as he broke off several on one of the engines that he had just rebuilt . I like the ease of pulling the head with bolts rather than the studs . The manual says to use something screwed into the spark plug holes to lift up a head that was fastened with studs and never pry with a screwdriver or chisel . The replacement of the timing chain and sprockets is pritty straight foward . Just line up the little marks . When you put the cover back on , set the hub in place to center the cover before you tighten the bolts . Some of those bolts on the cover are special and go into the water jacket so seal them up .

[Don Coatney]

Moose;

What I see is a very high mileage engine. Thye "gunk" came from years of blow by. The top ridge on the cylingers supports the high mileage theory. Were it me I would do a total rebuild to include valve guides, cam, rod, and main bearings.

[moose]

I agree it's probably high miles.

My plan with this engine is to use my good parts(cam, tappets, timing chain, finned head, side-draft carbs) on the good block, and make it run for this fall. After that, if it smokes too bad, I'll pull it apart again this winter.

What about the stamp on the pistons? 342-1 to 342-6 do you think that is for a bore job? What size rings do you think it might need?

[greg g]

Most of that sludge in the valve gallery is probably LEAD PUDDING. Wear gloves and work carefully when removing it, and put it in some sort of stout sealed ocntainer when you dispose of it. OR mix it in with old oil and take it to an oil recycling place.

I have seen some MOPAR flat heads with studs rather than bolts, I don't think they are exclusive to rebuilt engines, what is the engine number??

most oversized pistons have the bore size stamped on the with a plus sign.

like "+ .030"

Look on the side of the block near the distributor for a riveted on metal tag. Many commercial engine rebuilders stuck a tag on with some language about what parts to reorder.

[Plymouthy Adams]

mic the bore..snap guage is best...

as the numbers go..odds are they are a weight stamp on a matched set of slugs..