adam_knox Posted June 30, 2009 Report Posted June 30, 2009 Hey gang, Got a 97 Ford Taurus that was making a loud sound (the faster the car the louder the sound, regardless if foot is on the accelerator). Took it to a shop, for $75 they determined it is the Hub bearings (passenger side is worse than driver's). They charge $90 per hour. So their estimate is 121.06 per bearing so if did both sides it would cost 242.12 for parts and the said labor would be 225.00 for both. the total cost to replace both of the bearings would be 493.28. Now I've had the fronts off my 49 Chrysler too many times to count, and those bearings seem pretty darn easy to get too. Would working on a 97 Ford Taurus be about the same as the Chrysler, minus removing disc brakes rather than drum brakes? I'm thinking I could do it, what other factors should I consider by having a shop do it versus me? Thanks!~Adam p.s. Anyone around these here parts know of a trustworthy and reasonably priced shop? Quote
Young Ed Posted June 30, 2009 Report Posted June 30, 2009 Remember its a front driver. I've never done a ford but a couple GM cars. You end up puying the hub and bearing as an assembly and the only really tricky part is getting the drive axle out of the center of it. Quote
desoto1939 Posted June 30, 2009 Report Posted June 30, 2009 If your are a good backyard mechanic and can do the job and have the tools to pullthe axle and the knowhow then the job can be done. But if you messup and then have to have the car towed then figure this price and then any other damage that you might have done. Compare the work effort with your experience level. The older pre front wheel cars were much easier for the backyard mechanic to work on. This is only thoughts. good luck Rich Quote
adam_knox Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Posted June 30, 2009 Thanks Norm! Really nice guy on the phone. They gave the range of 300-400. Might go with them rather than me doing it myself. I wouldn't have time to tackle it until next week, and don't really have the time to dedicate more than one day to work on the car (and can't leave the convertible out really, as I only have a one space garage!). I'll keep ya' posted...By any chance does mentioning your name get a 30% discount? If I do go there I'll be sure to mention that you sent me, maybe at least they'll be super nice the next time you pull in! Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 30, 2009 Report Posted June 30, 2009 If your are a good backyard mechanic and can do the job and have the tools to pullthe axle and the knowhow then the job can be done. But if you messup and then have to have the car towed then figure this price and then any other damage that you might have done.Compare the work effort with your experience level. The older pre front wheel cars were much easier for the backyard mechanic to work on. This is only thoughts. good luck Rich Rich; I noticed on another thread that you had a mechanic work on your Desoto. Do you do any work on your old car or do you farm it out? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 30, 2009 Report Posted June 30, 2009 Don't work on Ford often and GM never but for the Mopars of front wheel design and such the hubs are easy to do and with normal tools about the place..further it is down without any interference to the front end alignment.. DO NOT roll the vehicle with weight on the bearing without the axle stubs in place and torqued to specs... Quote
desoto1939 Posted July 1, 2009 Report Posted July 1, 2009 Don> i do the work that I am capable of doing. Brake jobs, Water pump etc. tuneup things that I feel comfortable with. I know my limitations rich Hartung Quote
realgonekatt Posted July 1, 2009 Report Posted July 1, 2009 cant recall if thats a pressed in hub style bearing or a 4-bolt from rear of hub. A pressed bearing can be a P i T a without a press, Where as the latter is an r&r of the whole assembly. An air hammer works well on driving that stub axle through the hub. Good luck! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 1, 2009 Report Posted July 1, 2009 the air hammer was ideal on my Porsche..the hardest hubs I have ever had to remove...the huge air hammer I had I cut a 1/2 drive extension as a chisel body, put a socket on the end..inserted the nutted up 2 inch trailer ball and put agaist the back of the bearing..it came out very nicely..I have since saved this setup just for this type work.. even if you have just a small air hammer..you can back the bearing with some dummy plate to stread the effect of the hammer to the entire bearing..DO NOT use this method to install new bearing.. Quote
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