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Posted

i looked under and the standard tow bar mounting system looks impossible...also i remember that tow hitches were usually attached ot the bumper...dont want to do that of course..

has anyone rigged a successful hitch system to the p-15..? my teardrop is ready to ROLL!!

claybill

Posted

What about the type you just clamp on to your bumper??? I have two of those one was made by U-Hall and the other well I really don't have any idea but I did have it on my 42.

Posted

I was thinking just what Teardrop said. You can go to a welding shop

and have them build the mounting part using flat steel pieces. Then

attach a modern receiver hitch to that so the ball can be removed.

Posted

please send them randy....

i dont want to use a bumper hitch...

i was wondering where on the frame would be the best 'anchor'. and it seems the only crossmember is way back near the gas tank and the hitch would have ot be 16" long..etc to get out to the bumper.

i see that a bracket extension is the answer..

i have access to expert metal working facilities..just looking for the best road to travel before i make the same mistakes.......

thanks , bill

Posted

A few years ago, I decided I wanted to tow our race car to a show with my Plymouth. I was "given" a receiver(class II?) for a '90's Explorer. It was fairly wide, but it needed to be cut and sleeved to widen it about 6" more.

It pulled this trailer just fine. Always thought it was more of a truck motor anyway...

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Posted

Bill,

I had a hitch on my P15 coupe when I bought it. Was the old fashioned type hitch. It had a piece of heavy angle iron welded across the back from frame rail to frame rail along the back cross frame support. Then the hitch was welded to the angle iron, then attached to the rear bumper using the center bumper bolt. Don't think I have any pictures of it and I can't take any. I cut the hitch off where it was welded to the angle iron and removed it. Then gave the hitch away. The angle iron is still welded like it always was though.

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted
It looks like the receiver would puncture the fuel tank in the event of a collision.

I just found this thread and feel that I need to respond to the statement, "It looks like the receiver would puncture the fuel tank in the event of a collision."

I was rearended by an SUV a month after installing that receiver. The SUV's bumper made a direct hit on the receiver. The force of the collision transfered through the receiver to the torque tube and adapter plates and on to the frame. Which bent at the forward attatchment bolts for the adapter plate. This drove the gas tank into the rear of the differential housing and put a nice, round dent in the tank. If I had NOT had the receiver bolted to the car the SUV would have driven the rear bumper into the gas tank and crushed the tank between the bumper and the differential. With a good possibility of rupturing the tank and spraying gasoline all over the crush zone. This would certainly guarantee a vehicle fire at that point with the total loss of the car and possible harm to the vehicle occupant. Me.

That trailer hitch assembly probably saved my life.

When I rebuilt my car I reinstalled the receiver and I now consider it a safety item.

And it was not even bent in the collision. A Draw-Tite Class lll/lV receiver is not put together lightly. And I'm here to tell you that that welder knew what he was doing!

Thanks,

Joe Romey

Posted

Joe,

My concern for the fuel tank arose because of the puncture issue in Ford Crown Victorias a few years ago that resulted in several fatalities.

I'm glad that the hitch proved my statement wrong.

Harold

Posted

No problem Harold,

I took another look at the PDF I made of the process and the pictures are a little deceptive. Most are from the back and it is hard to tell that there is at least seven inches from the front of the receiver tube to the rear of the gas tank. And as I said, none of the receiver parts bent when I got hit.

As I was rebuilding the car I boxed the frame back to a point just in front of the rear spring shackle mount. I also installed strobing LED brake lights/turn signals and a high mount center LED brake light. I sincerely hope that I don't get rear-ended again.

You can see some of the work I did on youtube.

If this link doesn't work just search youtube for "1950 plymouth tilt".

Have fun,

Joe

Posted

Just had one fabbed for my 47 Sedan Stated with a hitch off of my old 1994 Astro van. the two side flages un bolt. Hled the reciever up under the car, centered, cut the ends off. The addred a approxiamately a 33 degree angle to frame. Re wledied addtional bracing into the frame rails. bolted on each railwith one in the center of the bumper. EAsily supports 300 lbs of tongue weith. I am more concerned about starting and stopping

Posted

You can see some of the work I did on youtube.

If this link doesn't work just search youtube for "1950 plymouth tilt".

Have fun,

Joe

Joe, I absolutely love that tilt front end!!! I have been considering one for my Chrysler because I can't bend over the fenders far enough to work on the engine well enough.

You have it down perfect.

How do you latch it?

What are the cylinders?

What type of hinge did you use??

Again, ingenious work on that hood :eek::)

(got more pics???)

Pat

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

The tilt is powered by 2 electric linear actuators and they hold the hood in any position from closed to fully opened. I can also unpin them and open the hood even further than the video shows.

I fabricated the assembly from square and round tubing to bolt to the frame, with the hinge points behind the top of the bumper guards. This allows the gravel pan to rotate back and up to clear the bumper. Which is still bolted to the frame.

Thanks for the compliments on it. It took me a while to get things figured out.

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post-7075-13585356257785_thumb.jpg

Posted

I have been reinventing the wheel on my Dodge as far as the hitch goes. I will take pictures as soon as I'm finished with the assembly. Right now I have it in place and marking two bolt holes to be drilled out and then I will assemble the whole unit. Its really a little bit stouter than it should be but I got the receiver assembly at a bargain price and everything else I have either used material I had around here or fasteners bought down at Lowes. Now how will it work with my trailer well we will see as the trailer weighs in at 1900 lbs and the tong weight is at about 300 lbs. Thats right at the max for trailing but I should be able to put my little trailer on a diet with removal of some stuff and placing some gear behind the axle.

Posted
The tilt is powered by 2 electric linear actuators and they hold the hood in any position from closed to fully opened. I can also unpin them and open the hood even further than the video shows.

I fabricated the assembly from square and round tubing to bolt to the frame, with the hinge points behind the top of the bumper guards. This allows the gravel pan to rotate back and up to clear the bumper. Which is still bolted to the frame.

Thanks for the compliments on it. It took me a while to get things figured out.

very kool,love that plymouth fast back,,nice engineering on the tilt,,,what the power under the hood ?? il assume 318 ??

Posted

Thanks,

The engine, transmission and computer are from a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab pickup. It is a 5.9L (360 ci) with electronic fuel injection, AC, power steering and automatic 4 speed overdrive transmission (46RE).

With a reproduction Caddy air cleaner. The "Oil Filter" is now the radiator recovery tank.

Have fun,

Joe

Posted
Thanks,

The engine, transmission and computer are from a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab pickup. It is a 5.9L (360 ci) with electronic fuel injection, AC, power steering and automatic 4 speed overdrive transmission (46RE).

With a reproduction Caddy air cleaner. The "Oil Filter" is now the radiator recovery tank.

Have fun,

Joe

joe,, thats the way to do it,,, i have been looking at a super low mileage 5.2 motor,,but no computer,,its been a night mare sourcing all the stuff to make it happen,,, i have figured that the easiest way to do it is to get a vehicle, ram/dakota/van...and use both the motor and tranny,,and wiring harness from the donor vehicle,,, so i guess yours is later then a 518 trans,, how much floor did you have to cut to get that trans in there?? any pics ???? thanks for the reply DON :cool:

Posted

on the trannies...the RE stands for rear wheel drive, Electronic control whereas the earlier models that have only the electric overdrive lockout switch are know as RH where the R is again, rear wheel drive and the H stand for hydraulic shift..the first were A500 (basic 904 with OD) and A518 (basic 727 with OD) and later were I think remaned 42RH (previous A500) and 46 RH (previous A518) then when the electronic shift control came into play this was 42RE (replaced the hydraulic shift A500) and 46 RE...(replaced the hydraulic shift A518)

main thing to remember is that the RE's will rquire the electronic controller and interconnecting harness for use in any retro..

The RH's will need the OD lockout switch and are mostly set up for electronic speedo's/odo's this is not a biggy as the early models will still drive a standard chain when swapped backed.

if mixing and matching parts from various sources do be careful to match the 5.2 to the correct convertor and 5.9 also to its convertor with additional weight attached..the 360 is external balanced engine..318 internal...

Posted

i wanted this super low mileage 5.2 magnum, said to be a test mule from chrysler,,but the location this guy lives,,no way it was a test mule,,, so theres one issue,,,where did it come form ???

2nd,, i wanted to run my current 904 with hyd lock up converter,,to run the EFI on a 1996 and newer with OBD2 and a non computer tranny,, i need to have a manual trans computer,, and then needed one leg of the harness,,

so a complete donor vehicle would be the way to go in my opinion,,

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