BobT-47P15 Posted January 10, 2007 Report Posted January 10, 2007 I'm sure this has been discussed several times before, but as usual I was not paying attention as did not need to do the procedure at the moment. What tools are needed to remove the rear axle shaft.....in order to replace the inner grease seal and perhaps the outer bearing. How hard is the thing to remove? Anyone have the bearing number for a 39 or so Dodge rear axle bearing???? If you recall, this is a '47 model car with older rear end from the late 30s. Any advice on this topic would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob Quote
oldmopar Posted January 10, 2007 Report Posted January 10, 2007 If the axel is not too tight I have pulled it reversing the brake drum and pulling it out use the drum and have also used a slap hammer . I know some references advise against a slap hammer I have not had any problems but have only done a few Ed Quote
captden29 Posted January 10, 2007 Report Posted January 10, 2007 when i did the rear brakes on my 54 windsor i did not understand the directions in the motors manual and elsewhere as to how to get to the inner rear seal so i did not do it. usually i can just look at things and figure them out or with the help of a manual while looking at it i can solve it. the rear seal eluded me. anyway, no leaking so i am ok, but i would like to replace them next time i get the drums off if i knew how. dennis Quote
oldmopar Posted January 11, 2007 Report Posted January 11, 2007 Its been a few years since I did them but as I recall you remove about 6 bolts possibly a shim then remove the axel then there is the seal ,I had to use a bearing puller to get it out. The axle bearing remained on the axel and was good so I just cleaned and repacked it. If the bearing needs to be removed it should be pressed off. When the axel is installed you should use a dial indicator to set the end play of the axel to spec. As I remeber there is a inner and outer seal that should be replaced. I do not use motors but have a orignal Plymouth manuals I work from I also have a parts manual that hepls to see how it goes together. When working on these cars the dealer model specific books are as important as a good set of tools. I have done this on other then Plymouths so may have mixed a few minor things up but by using the books,correct tools and some common sense it is not a hard thing to do. One more then when you are there clean out the old grease from the axle grease fitting and install new grease ed Quote
Young Ed Posted January 11, 2007 Report Posted January 11, 2007 Bob you'll have to do more then remove the bolts to get the axle out. Pulling the axle requires a puller. You can use the same one you use to pull the drums. I cant remember the exact dimensions but we put a piece of PVC that just fits around the outside of the studs on the axle. I think its about 2 inches wide.Put the drum and puller back on and you can get the axle out. Quote
grey beard Posted January 11, 2007 Report Posted January 11, 2007 Sorry guys but the drum puller trick won't work. When you remove the drum, the wheel lug holes come off with uit. To get the axle shaft out, first remove the drum, then nuts and bolts that secure the backing plate, and get it out of the way. When the backing plate is removed, there will be shims behind it. Keep these intact and don't forget to reinstal them, for they determine axle end play. Now to remove the axles, just reinstall the drum on the axle shaft with the nut turned on only a few turns. This allows some slop or play for the drum to move on the shaft. Now just use the drum weight as a slide hammer against the nut to work the axle out. It only needs to move about an inch for the bearing to come free, then the shaft comes right out. The inside seal is just about useless IMHO. No newer vehicles use these. If you left it out, the rear axle grease would lube the wheel bearings. HOW ABOUT THAT IDEA? Otherwise, be sure to pack the bearing while it's out, after you've cheaned and inspected it. Should last a long time before it needs attention again. AND put a new seal in the backing plate. That one IS important. Quote
RobertKB Posted January 11, 2007 Report Posted January 11, 2007 Pull the drum and remove the backing plate and any shims behind it. Pull axle. There are two ways and I've used. Both involve leaving the nut done up as far as you can on the axle to avoid thread damage. I use an old flywheel and slip it over the axle and then let the end of the axle take the weight. Pull it toward you with a fairly vigorous motion letting the flywheel slide along the axle until it hits the nut. A couple or three of these has always removed the axle for me. Just be prepared for the axle to come fairly quickly once loose. If you don't have a flywheel use a big length of chain and slide it over the axle end and then the nut. Throw chain and watch axle pop out. I prefer the flywheel and if you are careful you will do no damage at all to the axle. I've pulled all the axles out of my three mopars this way at some point to replace seals, bearings, or to pull the pumpkin. Quote
Young Ed Posted January 11, 2007 Report Posted January 11, 2007 Ya the drum puller trick does work. I've done it multiple times. I may not be explaining the PVC part very well. I think Pete tried it-maybe he can chime in. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 11, 2007 Report Posted January 11, 2007 I think I understand your pipe method now, Ed. I didn't when I first read it. If you put a pipe between the axle tube and the drum that is just long enough to allow the nut to be started, you could tighten the nut and pull the axle out. That sounds like it would work pretty well. I put a large heavy washer behind the nut and used a three jaw slide hammer puller, grabbing the washer, to pop mine out. A few good smacks and it popped right out. Merle Quote
Young Ed Posted January 11, 2007 Report Posted January 11, 2007 Thanks Merle you got the missing step. Its been a while since I've done it. Quote
blueskies Posted January 11, 2007 Report Posted January 11, 2007 Ya the drum puller trick does work. I've done it multiple times. I may not be explaining the PVC part very well. I think Pete tried it-maybe he can chime in. Ed- I didn't try the PVC pipe trick, but I'm sure it would work. To my understanding, the length of PVC is a spacer between the inside of the drum, and the face of the axle housing. The length is just long enough so that when the drum goes on, there is just enough thread on the end of the axle to get the nut back on. As the nut is tightened, it pulls the axle out of the housing, because the PVC pipe won't let the drum advance toward the center of the car. I tried to use the drum as a slide hammer, but I couldn't get the axles to budge. I resorted to a heavy slide hammer, borrowed from my neighbor. This heavy weight, pulling on the end of the axle, popped them right out in one or two pulls. Pete Quote
Young Ed Posted January 11, 2007 Report Posted January 11, 2007 That's it I'm remembering it now. Tighten a little bit and then remove the nut and put a washer under it to pull some more. I knew it worked but its been 6 years since my truck looked like it did in the pic I posted before. Its come a long way! This year I'm planning on finally getting a headliner for it. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.