Brake Light Switch Replacement

[Joe Flanagan]

I just pulled my brake light switch off and I know you can buy replacements but I was wondering about the wires. It looks like a funny kind of clip connection. Can't really tell much from mine at the moment because it's completely caked with dirt. When they sell you the switch does it include the wires/connectors?

[Rodney Bullock]

Joe, do you have the one that is like an old coke top with ywo prongs sticking out? You might have the one with the level. I think yours is the round one they come in low and meduim pressure. It look like the one ford used in 1960 two lines connect.

[blueskies]

I replaced mine with a generic mechanical switch that activates when the pedal moves away from the firewall. I think they are about $15 bucks.

I like it better because the brake lights come on right when the pedal moves, a bit quicker than the pressure switch. And because I didn't have to run new wires all the way back to the rear of the car to the stock pressure switch location.

I also put one on the clutch for a neutral safety switch. I didn't want one of my kids to turn the key and run the car through the garage wall... Now the clutch pedal has to be pushed in for the starter to work.

Pete

[Young Ed]

Joe the switches are available new. They use bullet connectors. Only issue I had when replacing mine was the new one had the opposite bullet connection so I had to switch the ends on the wires.

[Joe Flanagan]

Rodney,

Mine looks like a big nut with two prongs coming out the top.

Young Ed,

So the replacement is ready to take commercially available connectors? I'm going to order one tomorrow along with the rubber hose that connects to the brake lines on the rear axle. Supposed to get eight inches of snow here in DC Metro area so I don't think I'll be doing anything with the car tomorrow. Well, ordering parts. That's fun.

[RobertKB]

Like Pete (blueskies) I have a mechanical switch on my '38 after replacing the original style twice with no luck. Both my '48 and '53 have the original brake switch which work fine. I like the mechanical and will go to it if either of my originals quit working.

[Young Ed]

Young Ed,

So the replacement is ready to take commercially available connectors? I'm going to order one tomorrow along with the rubber hose that connects to the brake lines on the rear axle. Supposed to get eight inches of snow here in DC Metro area so I don't think I'll be doing anything with the car tomorrow. Well, ordering parts. That's fun.

My replacement took regular bullet connectors and so did the old one. Just the opposite ends.

[Don Coatney]

I also switched to a mechanical switch for the same reasons blueskies did.

[Frank Elder]

I know you have pictures Don, are you home or on the road somewhere?

[Don Coatney]

I know you have pictures Don, are you home or on the road somewhere?

I shot this using my zoom as I am in Seattle, WA.

[Frank Elder]

Gotta love tha Zoom! I was having trouble picturing the newer brake switch...looks like a standard swing pedal switch like in my 78 dodge truck.

[moose]

Mine had the bullet connectors, and I got a replacement for it at NAPA. After that one corroded and stopped working(two months), I went back and found one that has screw connectors. I haven't had a problem since.

[steveplym]

I installed a mechanical one from watson street works after two stints with the hydraulic one. I've got a pretty good picture of mine, just drilled two holes in the floor pan and bolted it up.

[james curl]

Check out the supplier of 50s Chevrolet pick up parts. They use a switch which looks like the one Don C used. The arm is one peice and not adjustable but they are available at most chain auto supply stores.

[Joe Flanagan]

I wound up ordering the original pressure switch from Roberts yesterday. Despite some of the modifications I've made (disc brakes, OD), I want to keep things as original as possible. I'll see how long it takes to crap out on me and then take it from there.

[Young Ed]

Joe I have orig ones on both my car and truck and haven't had to replace them once. The truck one is ~8 years old now.

[Joe Flanagan]

That's good news, Ed. I wonder if it's another case of NOS parts being kind of iffy from time to time.

[Young Ed]

Joe mine are brand new ones from the reg auto store. Its not the kind of part I would buy NOS.

[David Strieb]

NAPA, Echlin # SL113, orginal type switch with screw terminals.

[PatS....]

Ron Francis has these

http://www.ronfrances.com/showpage.php?page=detail.htm&partid=216

FULLY ADJUSTABLE & WATERPROOF

A fully adjustable and water proof mechanical brake switch. Since it's rated for high amps, this switch doesn't require a brake switch relay. It can easily be mounted to most manufacturer's pedal assemblies with the adjustable stainless steel bracket.

5/8 inch mounting hole

*Very Waterproof

*Very Heavy Duty

*Easy Mounting

*Use Anywhere on Pedal

*Fully Adjustable Stainless Steel Bracket

*Intelligent Choice

*Normally On/Push Off

*No Relay Needed if Using w/ Halogen Bulbs

http://www.ronfrances.com/showpage.php?page=detail.htm&partid=217

LOW PRESSURE

High quality switch. Much longer life than previous models available anywhere.

Fits most cars, 20-50 pounds pressure required instead of stock units that don't come on until 60-120 pounds pressure.

Standard 1/8 Pipe Thread. It is compatable with Silicon Brake Fluid.

Attention: This updated version of this trusty switch is D.O.T. compliant which includes silicone fluid compatibility and it is capable of 200-300% more cycles.

[james curl]

I am still running the original pressure switch in my 48 P-15 with out problems and it is only 61 years old.