Powerhouse Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 My gauge reads 80 when its running....should it be less? Quote
captden29 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 if it reads 80 all the time it has a problem with the guage. dennis Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 Gauge should be fine. Check your oil pressure regulator plunger as it is most likley sticking and or your oil pressure regulator spring is broken. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Posted January 20, 2009 engine at idle not warmed up yet.... oil pressure regulator plunger????? Quote
greg g Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 your white arrow is poiting to the oil pressure regulator valve access. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Posted January 20, 2009 ok...i kinda thought so...If I open that up will alll the oil come out from the filter and anything higher? Can I get a spring for it easily? Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 Also (I might be wrong) but I believe your oil filter to and from lines are labled incorrectly. Should be the other way around. Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 ok...i kinda thought so...If I open that up will alll the oil come out from the filter and anything higher? Can I get a spring for it easily? No oil will come out as long as the engine is not running. If the spring is broken Vintage Power Wagons sells them. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Posted January 20, 2009 Also (I might be wrong) but I believe your oil filter to and from lines are labled incorrectly. Should be the other way around. The filtered oil is running out the bottom through the fat rubber hose in to the top port. The dirty oil is running in the side from the bottom port. I sthat incorrect? I hope not...I'll be changing this over to a modern remote spin on filter soon so the correct way would be appreciated. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Posted January 20, 2009 AH CRAP! I just looked at a diagram from another hread...I DO have it wrong. Would that effect oil pressure? Or will it do bad things anywhere else? DOH! Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 AH CRAP! I just looked at a diagram from another hread...I DO have it wrong. Would that effect oil pressure? Or will it do bad things anywhere else? DOH! Will not effect oil pressure. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Posted January 20, 2009 SO...should I reroute the oil gauge line to the rear most port? Is there a rear port like that in the diagram behind the starter? Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 SO...should I reroute the oil gauge line to the rear most port? Is there a rear port like that in the diagram behind the starter? Any main oil gallery port will work for an oil gauge as they are all common. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 Your gauge line is OK where it is. The pressure is the same throughout the oil pressure passage. You can tap into any of the ports for your gauge and filter. As for your filter, look at the canister near the ports to see if it is stampped IN and OUT. My filter is plumbed the same as yours because the bottom port is labled "IN" and the upper port is labeled "OUT". Other filters are set up so that the upper port is the inlet and they drain out the lower port. It all depends on which type of filter you have. Merle Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Posted January 20, 2009 My Filter Doesn't Have Any Markings For In Or Out. Great, Now What? I Got It From A Friend For Free...it Came Out Of His Junk Pile...no Way To Tell What Car It Came From...i Painted It Blue Because That's The Only Paint I Had Left. Quote
billwillard Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 I dont care how those filters are marked they should always be plumbed the way Don is showing you. If not you are dumping your dirty oil back to the bearings instead of the oil pan. Top to top and bottom to bottom ALWAYS Bill Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 21, 2009 Author Report Posted January 21, 2009 I dont care how those filters are marked they should always be plumbed the way Don is showing you. If not you are dumping your dirty oil back to the bearings instead of the oil pan. Top to top and bottom to bottom ALWAYSBill oh great...so that's the filtration I've been getting for the past 3 years. Dangit! SO what goes into the oil pan? Quote
Jim Saraceno Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 I thought of moving my plumbing to the rear port but it is obstructed by the starter. As they said before, the pressure should be the same in all of them. Quote
billwillard Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 Powerhouse, Oil goes under presure from the main oil gallery to top of the filter traping the dirt on the outside of the filter. Then clean oil from the inside of filter goes into the pan. If you install the lines backwards trash from bottom of filter will go down into main oil gallery every time you turn car off. Bill Quote
grey beard Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 I have seen these bypass filters hooked up both ways - oil in the bottom and out the top or vice versa. Doesn't really matter, as dirty oil will not enter the engine bearings either way. Think about it. The dirty oil is ENTERING the filter, not leaving it. The oil pressure entering the filter determines the direction the oil will travel inside, and the filter doesn't care which way the oil flows through it. Either way, these filters only have oil flowing through them when the oil filter pressure regulator allows the flow back into the pan. It is always the return line from the filter that is connected to the top of the pressure regulator, no matter which way the filter is plumbed. When the regulator valve is open to return oil flow from the filter, it opens and allows the clean, filtered oil to return back into the oil pan. On low pressure situations or very high pressure situations - like wide open throttle - the regulator valve closes this return oil from the filter temporarily. If you plumbed up an external spin-on filter to your engine and routed the return line from the filter to your block via another route than through the regulator valve, you could makie your part-time bypasss filter into a full-time spin-on by-pass filter. Might be better, but don't know for sure. What do the rest of you think about this? I still like Marty Bose's full-flow oil filter work around. That is what I hope to do on my own engine. Just can't do the block drilling with the engine in the frame - not enough room for the drill and bit down there . . . . . . Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 The filter I have is from the Deluxe Filter Company It is marked with "IN" at the bottom port and "OUT" at the upper port, so that's how I plumbed it up. When I look into the inside of the filter I see that the bottom port feeds up through the center tube, which has holes coming out the side of it about half way up. The oil will then migrate through the filter and exit out the upper port and drain back. This filter also uses the sock type filter element. I'm sure other filters are made differently, but a little research on how your's is designed will help identify how to plumb it up. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 21, 2009 Author Report Posted January 21, 2009 I took the oil pan down last nite as well as the flywheel cover pan thing...They were really greasy and had caked on gunk... from decades of use i'm sure. The iside of the flywheel pan was not bad...and the flywheel wasn't greasy at all...so the rear main seal must be good. However the flywheel teeth were a bit chewed at one section....but not worn on other teeth. Wonder what happened there. Anyway the oil pump screen was somewhat gunked up...not terrible though. The pan had about a half inch of really thick grey matter at the very bottom...looked like body filler before you mix in the hardener. I think it was some of that engine oil Snake OIl Quick Fix Seal CRAP....I've used it before on my old 87 K car....could that have been decades of lead or something settled at the bottom? I took out the oil pressure valve thing...it has a green spring(looks new) and a plunger...i cleaned it well...and also sprayed some carb cleaner in the port and then I wiped it out best I could with a rag. Didn't seem gunked up. HOW DOES THAT THING WORK? It' just a heavy spring and plunger...when the caps tightened all the way how can that thing do anything besides stay put? I read in my 49 MOTORS MANUAL the green spring is heavy duty, a red spring is light duty and no color at all is regular duty. Doesn't say what it does though. Quote
greg g Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 Ca you say lead??? Alot of that residue is from leaded fuel use. Becarefull handling and disposing of it. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 21, 2009 Author Report Posted January 21, 2009 yeah...I probably shouldn't have used my bare hands...and then ate a sandwich with my dirty hands...just kidding. It was pretty nasty stuff! I think I'll have to return it with the used oil...they'll figure it out. Quote
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