Did read the old threads but no help on 12v

[speedyshark]

I have done the change (almost) from 6 to 12. Does anyone have a part number on a 12v coil they have used, Like a ford coil? I have put a ford solenoid and if I put a 12v ford coil do I need to hook up the I post on solenoid to coil? I looked at the page from speedway that had the pulley for alt. but not working. Anyone know where to get the pulley for the wide belt? Is there a chance that there is volt meter that looks like the original ammeter? I would like to put one in place of the ammeter when I use the one wire alt. The only thing that used electric on gauges was the ammeter and fuel gauge right? water temp., oil, and speedo all mechanical? With that is there a direct replacement for the fuel sending unit form 6 to 12 or only 6 and use reducer? Sorry for all the questions, but can't find in search.

One last thing I will replace all bulbs to 12 I was thinking of using a fuse block to run all the stuff off that ( Flasher for turn signals, horn relay will they work?, light, ect) I don't think running the fuel sending unit off 12v fuse block then put reducer if needed will hurt it.

Car is a '47 Dodge d-24. By chance is there a already made bracket for the alt.?

[speedyshark]

I was reading some stuff and thought this might work for the volt gauge. To keep the look and not add a voltmeter some where use a idiot light. Get a 3 wire alt. and put a led light in dash some where. Maybe put behind the ammeter and when something wrong the light will light up red and make the ammeter glow red. Just a thought.

Did figure out the solenoid question. I will use a true 12 volt (AC delco #U515) that does not use a ballast resistor.

[oldmopar]

Here is a few links with 6-12 info

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/six12.htm

http://www.classictruckshop.com/12volt.php

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/SixVolt.html

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

and about 1/2 way down on the tech tips for this websites home page

http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar...pframeset.html

[speedyshark]

Have looked through all those links. Very good info, however none answer the questions.

[greg g]

Most non electronic coils for automotive applications are built to run between 5 and 8 volts. the exception would be coils that are lables as having internal resistors. You can use you stock coil with the addition of a ballast resistor in the line from the ignition switch to the coil. The extra terminal on the ford solenoid bupasses the resistor while the ignition switch in in the start position. It sends 12 v to the coil for the period that the starter is egaged. This will not harm your coil as it should be for 10 seconds or less on a well tuned engine. The hotter spark should give you plugs a hotter spark for starting, then reverts to the resisted feed for running.

When you get your resistor you want to mount it as close to the coil as possible in a locatio that is isolated from vibration and bump shock. Also buy a couple for the glove box as they are reliable unreliable. Should be available for 4 bucks or less at parts store near you.

[martybose]

I bought my wide alternator pulley from

Fifth Avenue Auto Parts

415 Court St.

Clay Center, KS 67432

phone 913-632-3450

This was many years ago, but I think they are still there. No web presence that I could find.

Marty

[Plymouthy Adams]

coils...12 coils are just 6 volts coils using a dropping resistor.. primary resistance of 1.2 to 1.7 ohms..is designed for 6 volts and you just use the dropping resistor of equal impediance..(select your impedence on the current your ignition system requires)...run a start wire from the starter relay for a 12 volt start boost and run the resistor on the run circuit...if the coil is a GM and reads approximately 3.4 ohms..it is already set for 12 with an internal resistor..when the industry went to 12 volts the coils and gages did not change..they just added resistors and CVR's

Lots of Fords and some GM's also used external resistor coils with the feed wire from the run circuit being the actual resistor...

I just use a Mopar standard coil of the mid 70's with appropriate resistor....

[blueskies]

I used a "Runtz" electronic voltage reducer for my fuel guage. Bought it from Speedway Motors for $19. It prevents voltage spikes that can burn out the guage. Wires in-line to the guage. It's the blue shrink-wrapped piece in this pic, with the ground wire to the back of the guage.

Why not just use your amp guage? Just reverse the wires for negative ground, and it will work fine. It doesn't care if it is 6 or 12 volts.

Pete

[Don Coatney]

As has already been mentioned externally resisted 12 volt coils are actually 6

volt coils. Pictured below is the coil I use as well as the ballast resistor. I

also use a 4 pole furd starter solonoid and as greg mentioned I use the 4th

pole to supply the ignition with a full 12 volts when the starter is engaged.

Keep in mind that if you are using a remote (under the hood) starter button

that everytime you spin the engine with the starter (key on or off) you are

powering up the igniton circuit.

I modified my factory generator bracket to accept a GM single wire alternator.

With this alternator the engine must start and spin up to about 1200 RPM's to excite

the alternator before it will start charging. Once excited it will

countine charging even at idle speed until the engine is turned off. Pictures

below.