HotRodTractor Posted January 5, 2009 Report Posted January 5, 2009 Hey Guys! I'm working on building a 1951 Dodge 1/2 ton with a bit of a hot rod engine ( I can't leave ANYTHING stock... its my weakness...) I have a 265 industrial engine I scavanged out of an Oliver combine. Well I actually bought the combine just for the engine. Best $100 bucks I have ever spent. I have a good chunk of the engine rebuild well under control, but I have a couple of questions. Valve springs.... I want the option to open this engine up when i feel like it (And I do mean OPEN it up and let er eat!). I would like to be able to NOT float the valves when doing so. I would like to make sure that I am good to 6000 RPMs. That will give me a little bit of a safety factor for what i really want to run as well as give me the option to use the engine in a different application down the road if I decide I don't care for it in the truck. Carbs. What do the stock single barrel Ball and Ball (Carter) flow CFM wise? What about the single barrel Strombergs like the BXVD-3 that was found on some of the Dodge trucks? I have my heart set on a progressive linkage triple carb setup and plan on making it very responsive even if I need to spend some dough to get the carbs that will make it work the best. Spending less money is always a good thing though and i have some Ball and Balls and Strombergs BXVD-3s kicking around the shop. Holding myself to a vintage looking triple setup though I am sure that triple 81s will flow exactly what I want..... Camshaft - Where can I get ahold of a regrinder that knows these engines and can give me a great grind for my app? HEI system - Where can I got to get a good conversion, or better yet is the a DIY guide for building one out of commonly available parts? Oil System - know that some if not all of these motors had a bypass oil filtration system. How is this system set up and how can I make it either a full flow system, or ensure that the bypass system actually is set up and works correctly? That should do it for now Thanks guys! Jason Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 5, 2009 Report Posted January 5, 2009 The best way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. At this point in your questions valve float is not much of an issue as your engine will be in pieces once you hit five grand unless you cross drill your crankshaft and make several additional modifications. Suggest you do a search on this forum and also on a few other forums for how to spin a Mopar flathead to five grand or better. Start with the Innliners forum and graduate to the HAMB and OLDSKOOL forums. Look for Hudsonator who does tractor pulls at over five grand. Quote
greg g Posted January 5, 2009 Report Posted January 5, 2009 your 265 should be set up for full flow filter. It should have a alominum canister bolted to the bock with no external plumbing. If so its a full flow. You can make up an electronic ignition by using parts from /6 engines with yhe stadard mopar electronic ignition. The distributor needs to have the base turned a bit and the drive tang needs to be swapped. There is a fellow in Tenn that runs a pulling tractor with a mopar big 6. cross drilling the crank will aid in the oiling situation. Although 6000 rpm might be a bit much for a 5 inch stroke engine. Chevy valve springs have been used to good effect, dual intakes and exhausts manifolds are available from a couple sources. Coiu[le guys are using carter webber 2 bbls. I don't believe there is much difference between the solex and carter as far as flow rate is concerned. The carter webbers are progressive units with the secondary opening after the primary. Couple other guys will likely chime in as to where to get your cam reground. Quote
HotRodTractor Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Posted January 5, 2009 The best way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. At this point in your questions valve float is not much of an issue as your engine will be in pieces once you hit five grand unless you cross drill your crankshaft and make several additional modifications. Suggest you do a search on this forum and also on a few other forums for how to spin a Mopar flathead to five grand or better. Start with the Innliners forum and graduate to the HAMB and OLDSKOOL forums. Look for Hudsonator who does tractor pulls at over five grand. I have a copy of several posts from several years back that Hudson had made over at inliners regaurding some oil modifications (probably 2000-2001 area???). This isn't the first time I looked at doing this build, but I plan on following through with it this time, before it was just information that I wanted to aquire. Thanks for giving me a heads up on where Hudson hangs out these days I do agree that the mean piston speed is going to be a bit high... but I think its doable at 25.4 m/s with some carfull planning, mathing piston and rod weights, shot peening and cyro treating the rods, and making sure the pistons are top quality - this probably means finding a new piston to fit into the engine. your 265 should be set up for full flow filter. It should have a alominum canister bolted to the bock with no external plumbing. If so its a full flow.You can make up an electronic ignition by using parts from /6 engines with yhe stadard mopar electronic ignition. The distributor needs to have the base turned a bit and the drive tang needs to be swapped. There is a fellow in Tenn that runs a pulling tractor with a mopar big 6. cross drilling the crank will aid in the oiling situation. Although 6000 rpm might be a bit much for a 5 inch stroke engine. Chevy valve springs have been used to good effect, dual intakes and exhausts manifolds are available from a couple sources. Coiu[le guys are using carter webber 2 bbls. I don't believe there is much difference between the solex and carter as far as flow rate is concerned. The carter webbers are progressive units with the secondary opening after the primary. Couple other guys will likely chime in as to where to get your cam reground. Now I have to go home and look..... I could of sworn it was a steel canister with lines coming in and going out of the block, but I have been tinkering with 4 different engines in the last few days and my memory is fuzzy at the moment. Thanks for your help so far guys! Jason Quote
martybose Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 Pistons shouldn't be a big deal. I looked back through my old records, and found that in September of 1996 Venolia made me a custom set of forged pistons for my 230 with an uncommon size and a metric ring package (a long story) for just $412.51, including shipping. I sure wouldn't want to twist those rods to 6K RPM unless the 265 rods are a lot stronger than my 230 rods (and bolts) were. There are people who will make rods for anything, and they're good insurance. Of course if it were mine I wouldn't buzz it, I'd put a small supercharger with maybe 6-8 lbs of boost, which would probably make 300 HP without high RPM. But it's your nickel, so spend it as you wish! Marty Quote
HotRodTractor Posted January 6, 2009 Author Report Posted January 6, 2009 Eh I already mess with turbo charged diesels, I want this guy to be NA - just because I can. A little background on me - I'm a farmboy through and through, grew up on a dairy and restored some old two banger Deeres over the last few years. I have an engineering degree. I have a tool and die degree and some machining skills. I built a 600Hp Powerstroke diesel pulling truck with a 3" turbo, makes 50+ pounds of boost, turns about 4200 RPMs down the track( will be 6,000 when the fueling issue gets resolved... LONG story but every 7.3 Powerstroke has this issue.), Has billet rods, custom made aluminum roller rockers (stockers are stamped steel - pretty sad....) etc..... There is no reason an old flatty like this can't sing a tune at 6,000 RPMs. I probably won't run it up over 4500 very often, but I want the option. Thats not a bad price for odd ball pistons. Quote
blueskies Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 Earl Edgerton knows a thing or two about cams, he's a cam grinder and races a one-off 12-port fuel injected Chrysler long block on the salt. Not sure if this e-mail is current or not, but try him at edgerton@pacbell.net Pete Quote
Tony WestOZ Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 I was talking to a guy how use to race 250`s (we never got the 265 here) back in the 50`s and 60`s. Hopefully in a month or two when I see him next he will have found his notes on what he use to do to them back then. Generally speaking he never had a problem with the rods or pistons letting go. Cranks were the problem, even with cross drilling. 5000 rpm and you could run a full season with no problems. 5500 rpm and you needed to pull it down every 3 or 4 meets to check things out. 6000 rpm. Only if its the last race of the day, the last corner before the checkerd flag and your fighting for first place. That way you only had to walk back to the last corner to start picking up all the bits before heading home to build another motor for the next meet. Quote
HotRodTractor Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Posted January 7, 2009 Yep steel housing and external oil lines... Block ID is a IND265..... Quote
Frank Elder Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 Bypass filter, I got one too:( Quote
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