Cast Iron Headers Info Wanted

[Andydodge]

I was wondering if anyone has a set of the Fenton(?) cast iron headers that Don Langdon sells?......I originally wanted to run a set on my 1941 Plymouth Coupe, but as I'm in Australia and my cars RHD, I have assumed that the front header would foul on the RHD steering box, however I have seen a pic that shows the front header from another angle and I was wondering if anyone who has a set of these cast iron headers would be able to do some measurements for me, ideally i'd like the distance from the block port face to the outside of the header/engine pipe flange plus various measurements of the flange from the front/back of the front header, etc as well as the same for the rear header.....this may seem a lot of info but as the cost of these is over $300 US plus freight and the Oz dollar means they would end up close to $6-700.00 Aust.......so any info re the exact size etc would help......thanks, Andyd

[Olddaddy]

The cast iron headers that Tom Langdon sells are based on Fentons, but they have been "improved" some. The milled areas that allow access to the mounting bolts are larger, and the flanges where the exhaust mounts are modern sealing types. He also does tube headers that might have more clearance.

[Andydodge]

Olddaddy, thanks for that info but its the actual diamensions that i am really looking for as they are an expensive item to get and then find they don't fit due to the RHD steering box, thanks, andyd

[hkestes41]

Andy,

I will get some measurements from mine this weekend and send to you. On my way out right now but give me a day or two.

Here are a couple of pictures showing them on the engine before it was installed to give you an idea.

[Andydodge]

Oldaddy..........thems the pics I wished I had saved!!......twas you.......am in no hurry, many thanks for this......andyd

[1937 Dodge]

What a great looking engine! I like the red paint job and the dual carb/exhaust system.

[littleman]

Andy,

My Landons cast irons are

Outside edge of flange is 6 5/8 " from blk

Back flange appears even with back of blk

Back flange to front flange 16 1/2" ctr to ctr

Frt flange 5 1/2" ctr to back of frt mtr mount

Top of head to flange 10"

Hope this helps.

AL

[knuckleharley]

Andy,

....

Here are a couple of pictures showing them on the engine before it was installed to give you an idea.

...

Ahhh,but that is a thing of beauty!

[Andydodge]

Al, many thanks, will do some measuring tomorrow(sunday morning).........its 8.20pm sat nite and I got a belly full of "flat dry white"........lol......don't think I should measure anything.........lol, many thanks tho'........andyd

[hkestes41]

Andy,

Here is what I came up with after installation of the engine pictured above.

1) From point A to radiator support = 12 1/4 inches

2) From point A to side of block = 5 1/2 inches

3) From point A to rear of flange that timing cover mounts to = 3 1/2 inches

4) From bottom surface of point B to top of frame rail = 2 3/4 inches

5) From point B to the inner fender panel 1 1/4 inches

6) From point C to point on Oil Pump = 2 1/8 inches

7) From point C to point D = 12 inches

8) From point D to side of block = 5 1/8 inches

9) From bottom surface of point E to top of frame rail = 5 1/2 inches

10) From bottom surface of point B to top surface of head 10 5/8 inches

Let me know if there is any specific measurement you need and I will see what I can do.

[Andydodge]

HK........those will be a big help together with Al's I should be able to work it out, many thanks for the info, regards, AndyD

[Tony WestOZ]

Gee those manifolds are nice. Sure wish the 25" type would fit an OZ Pilot-house truck. Well they will but then the clutch would not work.

Hope you can fit them to your car Andy.

[Andydodge]

HK, can you also check the vertical height of the headers, ie from the engine port flange at the top on each to the horizontal exhaust pipe flange, btw are both front and rear exhaust pipe flanges on the same plane, ie the headers look the same length, but are they?........again thanks for this info........and Tony from West Oz........thanks for mentioning the clutch pedal swing!!........I'd forgotten about that, doesn't look good tho'........andyd

[david lazarus]

Andy

I have just completed this on my RHD '38...Jeeze what a mission. by the time I realised it was not easy I was donkey deep into it and had to see it through.

Problems were

rear header hit my brake master cylinder (had to move that).

replumb the brake line

Heat transfer to the MC (had to lag the headers)

Clutch pedal swing (had to offset that)

Pedal linkages all wrong, had to instal a complete new pedal, cable etc.

Pipework was complicated as it ducked and dived around all the RHD items.

On several occasions tools and foul language flew in all directions.

However have all smiles now.

PM me you email and I will send you pic's

[Andydodge]

Dave, thanks for the info, I'd forgotten about the clutch pedal swing and it looks like it maybe the killer, I'd thought about making up some tube headers after first dismissing the Langdon idea and found a set of factory 302 Ford headers that use small pipes so intended to chop them up and make a set for the six, but found a pic that made me think the front Langdons might be o/k, didn't even think that the rears would foul, but it doesn't look promising......without a lot of fiddling.......go to my shop website, www.scaleautomobilia.com.au and apart from the email addy on there, theres also pics of my 2 heaps on the About Us page......would appreciate seeing the pics......thanks and regards, andyd

[hkestes41]

HK, can you also check the vertical height of the headers, ie from the engine port flange at the top on each to the horizontal exhaust pipe flange, btw are both front and rear exhaust pipe flanges on the same plane, ie the headers look the same length, but are they?........again thanks for this info........and Tony from West Oz........thanks for mentioning the clutch pedal swing!!........I'd forgotten about that, doesn't look good tho'........andyd

Andy,

I just measured and from the center of the top bolt (2nd from right in picture) on the #1 tube to the top of the flange (Points A,B&C) is right at 8 inches. Both the front and rear flange appear that they would be on the same plane without the rearward tilt of the engine. If that makes sense. The rear flange is slightly lower than the front because the rear of the engine is slightly lower.

[n1gzd_plymouth]

I am interested in finding some headers like these but I wonder if it would be hard to adjust the valves. Can someone tell me how hard it is to adjust the valve clearances with headers (such as the cast iron ones above)?

Thanks,

Rebecca

[martybose]

I am interested in finding some headers like these but I wonder if it would be hard to adjust the valves. Can someone tell me how hard it is to adjust the valve clearances with headers (such as the cast iron ones above)?

Thanks,

Rebecca

I've got a set that are similar to those, and I wouldn't want to try to adjust them while running. I just go for a drive with the access panel removed from the right fender, then adjust the valves after shutting the engine off (while wearing some welding gloves). It's not that bad if you've got a set of good wrenchs.

Marty

[Olddaddy]

I have a pair of Langdon Cast Iron headers for sale, they have never been installed and were coated with Bill Hirsch high temp black coatings. Email me at olddaddy@rustyhope.com if you are interested.

[PatrickG]

Not to hijack this thread but...

HK, (or anybody else with these headers) are you doing anything about the tight header-fuel pump clearance, as far as heat/vapor lock goes? other than maybe the heat-shield plate that was there from the factory..

Is it even an issue?

I've been thinking about this, but haven't had a chance to run the motor long enough to see if it would become an issue...

[hkestes41]

Not to hijack this thread but...

HK, (or anybody else with these headers) are you doing anything about the tight header-fuel pump clearance, as far as heat/vapor lock goes? other than maybe the heat-shield plate that was there from the factory..

Is it even an issue?

I've been thinking about this, but haven't had a chance to run the motor long enough to see if it would become an issue...

My car is my daily driver and I have had no problems with the fuel pump even in 100+ degree Texas summers. I do not have a heat shield on the pump either. Really the headers are not as close as they appear in the pictures. Here is a picture taken from the rear of the engine that shows the clearance a bit better. While you can't see the pump you can get an idea that there is a lot more clearance than it looks like from side shots.