New engine and bolts vs studs

[Lou Earle]

I had mentioned that I thought I had a rebuilt engine because of the bolts used - I did not complete the thought process - the head is attached with the proper bolts but no bolts with threaded head for ground anywhere on engine .

Several other things lead me to believe a good engine but neither here nor there - Don I think is right However my 34 engine does have studs - are they original?

couple of questions:

1- The twisted off stud in the lower right corner for the pic - any suggestions on how to get it out- Now soaking it in Kroil penetrating oil. Any particular tool? Heat-is so where? I can grab it with vice grips and I does not yet move at all.

2 In the center of the pic near the water pump there is plugged hole any idea what that was or is?

3engine number is p15 *695176* Any info on when made etc?

Lou

[Don Coatney]

I have had good luck using a stud puller. Soak the broken bolt with a good penetrating oil overnight then give it a try. If that fails heat the broken bolt with a propane torch and hit it with a wax candle. The candle wax will seep into the threads and help free it up.

Not sure if studs were factory or not in your 34 Plymouth.

P-15 indicates your engine is from a 46-48 Plymouth. I believe engine numbers can be referenced on the main page supporting this forum.

My engine battery ground cable is located below the generator bracket. I believe this is a stock location.

[48mirage]

If you have to drill that bolt out go buy yourself a left handed bit and put your drill in reverse. You will have obout a 50/50 chance that the bolt will back out during the drilling process. Looks like only a couple of threads are sticking up above the block, probably not enough to get a stud remover on it.

[TodFitch]

Studs were factory original in 1933 and 1934. The 1936-42 service manual lists torque values for head bolts and for head nuts indicating that both were used during that period. So I guess that they switched sometime after 1936 but had gone to bolts by 1942. Per that manual the torque values are:

Torque for nuts (i.e. studs with nuts): 55-60 ft-lbs.

Torque for bolts: 65-70 ft-lbs.

Since the thread pitch for the studs is finer it makes sense that the torque value would be lower for the same (or similar) clamping force.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Not sure just how many years this was applicable but in my book it shows the battery grounded to the front drivers side of the engine on a drilled and threaded head bolt. My 54 is original and it is there also..being a 54 model car and the book covers 46-54..one can but guess.

[claybill]

absolute answer....i have tried the rest...get an oversize nut and tig/weld it to the exposed bolt...and wrench it out. it works.

claybill

[Alexander]

what ever process you use make sure to heat the block and not the broken stud. The idea that that when you heat something it will expand. heating the block while keeping the stud cool will expand the threads.

Note: This effect holds true only while heat is applied. The matrial goes back to its orginal size as it cools.

If you dont have access to a welder, you can cut a slot in to the stud and then try to unscrew it while heating the block.

[JohnS48plm]

I have a broken manifold stud in the P-15 engine I just bought. I plan on heating it with a propane torch then putting beeswax on it . We used beeswax in the shop at work for years and have had good luck loosening broken bolts. After the wax I'll drill it with a left hand drill bit.