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Hey everyone. New to the forum. First 1941 rebuild here. Just finished a 1967 Big Block Corvette with my buddies. The Back Story: In the middle of a power-train rebuild on our families 1941 Dodge Luxury Liner. Car has a 3 speed with the fluid drive. We pulled the fluid drive out of the car. We've had the engine rebuilt. Also rebuilt the transmission our self. Everything was running smooth until the fluid drive unit. When we pulled out the fluid drive, it was still full of fluid. No leaks. We drained the old fluid, and used some de-greaser to clean her up. We filled up the fluid drive unit and let it sit ready for install and to test for leaks. So far so good. The Problem: About a week later, we stood up the fluid drive unit as if you would mount it in the car, spun it around by hand to check, and now it leaks like a dripping facet out the bottom. Not sure if we some how manged the seal by lifting it improperly. Hate to think these could be that fragile. I have never pulled one of these apart, but would love if anyone has a guide, advice or a recommended shop who can assist. I am located in southern California. Cant wait to get this baby sealed up and back in the car. If anyone knows a trans shop or some steps. We tried using a combination of bear pullers, you name it. Maybe we're going at it the wrong way and in over our heads. I have on hand a fluid drive seal kit. Brand new that just came in. I can not remember the vendor I ordered it from.

Hi Everybody - I have a 1946 Dodge D24 with fluid drive and need to make up the linkage rod from the Sisson automatic choke to the carb. Carb is a Stromberg BXVD-3. Would appreciate it if somebody could let me know the length of theirs or the spec if you know it. Thanks, Doug

I have a 1949 Desoto custom. She's got transmission problems. As in it won't stay in 2nd gear. It has the fluid drive tip toe trans. It starts out fine . shifts into second and go's for a while then pops out of gear with a loud clunk. I have taken it into a shop and it looks like the pump is bad and the housing and syncros also the speed blocking ring. Thats what they're telling me. I don't know that much about transmissions. Anyway We are not finding any parts for this trans. Can anyone steer me in a good direction where I might find parts?. Or someone who can machine the extention housing?. Or possibly buy one in good condition? Thanks

Even though my fluid drive shifts fine I thought since the car is new to me I'd better check the level. After about a couple dozen tries I finally got the filler/inspection bolt to line up with the inspection hole. Once I unscrewed the bolt, the fluid started to flow out. In one respect I was glad that I wasn't low on fluid. But after about 2 seconds I realized it was still coming out strong so I put the bolt back in and started to think. It didn't make any sense at all. I pulled the bolt out again and after about 4 seconds I realized it wasn't about to stop flowing out anytime soon. Imagine taking the cap off a quart of oil and tipping it at 90 degrees. That's how steady it was coming out. glurp, glurp, glurp. How is that possible???? The only way I can visualize filling the fluid drive up past that bolt hole opening is to tip the entire car on about a 45 degree angle so that hole would be at the highest level, then filling it to the top. I've read somewhere that there needs to be a certain percentage of air in that sealed coupler for the transmission to sense a proper pressure. The air capacity in my coupler is obviously less than normal. If my fluid drive wasn't shifting properly then I would suspect the overfull coupler would be the problem and just drain off until it stops coming out. But since mine works fine, I can't help but think "if it ain't broke , don't fix it" . I'd be upset if I drained off the extra oil and then it started to act up. Either way I'm mystified at how it got overfull. ???

Just got finished replacing the oil in my M5 Fluid Drive…after 12 years. Unfortunately, when I first got my Chrysler New Yorker, I installed the “slightly” wrong oil; “Mobil DTE 24 Hydraulic …. should have been “Mobil DTE Oil Light Circulating Oil” - manuf. part number 104743. Mobil’s naming scheme is confusing, however my mistake allowed me to compare both blends. The DTE 24 has additional additives, but IMO, was more "slippery" and didn’t accelerate the car as quickly as the DTE Oil Light Circulating 104743 -- while not fast, I’d say that it’s much more “sprightly”. The only downside is that the DTE Oil Light comes only in 5 gallon pails…. and it ain’t cheap….I found it locally for about $100…well, at least I’ve got a 30 year supply…. A few observations: - the fluid coupling of an M5 takes exactly 25.5 cups or 6.375 quarts. - instead of using a rag to keep the plug from falling into the bell housing, I used a thin piece of aluminum sheet to make a tube that fit in the fill hole.... left more room for the socket wrench. - make sure the car is level. On my first refill years ago, didn’t realize the gentle slope of my street… under-filled the coupling by 3 cups. This time I used a level and jacked the back end. - a DIY slow drip system is a lot less fatiguing, allows you to walk away while it’s filling…see photos. - Jame Douglas deserves a round of applause for his research into the correct oil for our Fluid Drives, he got it right. David in Santa Cruz

hello friends can same one help me ? what kind of fluid goes in the torch converter and the transmission ? in 1949 dode

Hi guys. advice required. I'm about ready to pull the motor out of my '49 Dodge wayfarer. The transmission is 3 speed manual with fluid drive. I know I have to separate the engine and trans, before I lift the motor out, but I need to know whether I have to remove the transmission, and leave the fluid coupling/clutch and bell housing on the motor, and then remove that unit after the motor is out ??. If I tried to remove the trans WITH the bell housing/clutch etc, the motor would become unstable because the bell housing casting sits on the rear mounts. Looks like common sense, but any advice welcome. Also, when lifting the motor out, will it be necessary to remove the radiator yoke (mounting panel ?), or, should it clear ? (using an engine hoist, not overhead lifting block and tackle) Regards, BB.

Question for the group. Under certain circumstances while at a stop with the clutch out & the fluid drive engaged, we get a vibration toward the center of the exhaust system strait pipe about midway between the muffler & the kick up over the rear axle. It is like the kind of vibration you get in the middle of a recurve bow string after releasing an arrow. The previous owner had the exhaust recently replaced. If I put it up on jack stands, leave it idle with the parking brake on & the clutch engaged, it will stop if I put some pressure sideways on the strait part of the exhaust with my foot. Any ideas? Would a short flex pipe right after the down pipe like a modern car often has be a possible solution? Could it be the new style hanger they put on? It will do it maybe one time out of ten when coming to a stop on the road...

Hi I'm working on rebuilding my 47 dodge coupe. I'm looking for suggestions on a new wiring harness. Where to order, good diagrams etc. grateful for any help!

On a B4B, how does one tell if it equipped fluid drive? Thanks!

I am working on a 251 to replace the stuck 230 in my 52 dodge pickup. The engine I found is a rebuilt 251 that was in an M-37. I know this is a 25 inch motor instead of the smaller 23 currently installed in the 52. When I got the 251, it didn't come with a starter so I put the 230 starter on it. This is before I realized the 251 could have a different flywheel tooth count. Anyway putting the 230 starter on was no problem and it worked fine - didn't bind up and sounded ok. So is this normal? The M37 that I got this motor out of was an ex brush fire truck from central Oregon. The front mount was welded to the frame instead of bolted. I am betting the M had a 230 originally and it was replaced with the 251 at a later date. The serial number on the block is from a 48 to 49 truck. So I now have a few questions. First - could the 230 flywheel fit on this motor (explaining why the starter didn't get bound up)? The 52 has a three speed fluid drive. Will I be able to bolt the fluid drive to the 251? I'm pretty excited about getting this motor installed it the 52. I fired it off briefly and it sounds really strong. Can't wait to get it cleaned up and ready to go. I have it on a run in stand so it will be easy to work on and get running before being installed. Any help you can provide would be great. Thanks for letting come here and ask questions. The 52 is going to be treated a dropped front axle, new brakes, and a higher geared rear axle. I have not decided what I want to do with the body. For now I just want to get it on the road with a good reliable engine and updated suspension.

Hi there, Does someone know a source to buy a dish membrane for a 1941 Chrysler Royal with fluid drive transmission? I have attached a pic of my broken one. Many thanks in advance for any information!

Hello all. it's been a long time since I posted last time. I have a 1950 B-2-B Woodie that I'm getting geared up for the summer. It never really ran right last year but I managed. I had a shop put a new carb on and I think it's the wrong one. I have a fluid drive 4 speed. It's stalling on decline and will not stay running when I slowly let the clutch out while stopped or come to a stop without putting in the clutch. After looking over this site I'm hoping for a little guidance. The carb is a D6G1 and I don't think there is a dashpot. Before I go crazy trying to dial this thing in I want to make sure I've even working with the right set up. I attached a picture of the set up to see if that helps. Thanks guys, Jeremy Portland, Or

The patient is 1948 Chrysler with the fluid drive option. Symptoms: Car will not downshift as it should. At a stop if you engage the clutch briefly it will downshift. Upshift is as designed. When the key is turned to on you can not hear the relay engage. When reversing the relay will "click" several times. History: I had this issue in the past and thought it was the relay. When tested according to the shop manual it worked correctly. There was a note that if you could hear the relay "clicking" that there is a short in the electrical portion of the transmission system. I did replace the harness with a kit from Rhoad Island Wire and the car worked as it should. It started not working correctly again last week. After rechecking the relay I checked the Governor because when I bypassed it the relay worked as it should. It was cleaned and a few drops of mechiene oil were dropped in the shaft hole. All seemed to work until today when I needed to take the car to a film audition. I suspect that there is an issue with the governor. Does any one else have any ideas befor I start sourcing parts? TIA

I think i've isolated a problem on the '48 S-11 custom to the kick down switch on the carb body. has anyone taken one of these out of the carb and attempted to service it? many thanks for any experiences anyone can share

I used to think all d24's were fluid drive but Now I know fluid drive was an option that almost everyone bought. How many d24's were sold without fluid drive and does anyone have one? How do you like it? Has anyone converted a fluid drive car to a standard dry clutch? How did that work out?