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Showing results for tags 'electrical'.
Found 19 results
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Auto-Lite Voltage Regulator Adjustment instructions from Motor Age May 1949 View File Instructions on how to adjust Auto-Lite voltage regulators from the May 1949 issue of Motor Age magazine. Submitter JonathanC Submitted 08/02/2022 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates -
I have a slow crank condition on the 40' but I thought yall could help. Symptoms: 1) Extremely slow cranking even thought I am using a 1000ca optima battery ( new) 2) battery cables get very hot after starting. It will start it just takes 5 or 10 secs of cranking. Timing is set to 4btdc ( set it to 0 and made no difference) The battery is well grounded. Bypassed the Selinoid by touching cables together and still supper slow. The cables look to be the right size, but not sure. Are all signs leading to undersized battery cables?
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Hello everyone. I'm trying to convert over from positive ground to negative ground. Still keeping it 6 volts. I've read this great article from Fifth Avenue Garage and was wondering if its all I have to do. Any help with changing over or the steps it takes would be helpful. https://fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com/2017/06/changing-your-electrical-system-from.html
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I'm sure this is prob a silly question. Tried to start my 1952 Cranbrook after the winter and nothing.. I replaced the battery, starter solenoid and voltage regulator. Still nothing, not even a clicking sound and no power to the headlights or door lights. With the old battery on if I attached it to a 6v battery charger the headlights would go on. Anyone have any ideas? -
I have a 1940 Dodge D14, and I was wondering what the best wiring harness is to replace the original? Mine is corroded and needs replacement.
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Many threads here about the importance of propery grounding our 6v pos. Systems. I have painted my 230 ci engine parts. Now that I'm near assembly I question what grounding points should be bare metal to metal contact. Please advise.
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Well I do have some clues. It connects to the radiator, it has a wire, I think it might be for the fender lights but I can't determine what it does for them and I can't find it in the wiring diagram.
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I'm looking for any help! I recently bought a 48 special delux for a great deal, runs like a champ fires right up etc. guy said there was 'minor' electrical problems when they removed something. Well minor to some is major to others!!! It has been converted to 12 V sorta. New coil and alternator, but no lighting or gauges work. I assume the didn't convert the positive ground to negative with the lights but I'm not sure. I've never experienced a positive ground vehicle before. All the wire is deteriorating and needs replacement. I am looking into a wiring harness, but do I go back to the 6V or complete the 12 V conversion correctly? Any help would be great! Matt. (still wet behind the ears)
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File Name: Vehicle Wiring Schematics covering 1946 to 54 File Submitter: Alshere59 File Submitted: 27 Apr 2013 File Category: Reference Information Schematics are broken out by models. NOTE: 1946 or P 15 does not give wire size, down load the next year for that information. Click here to download this file -
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56 downloads
1946 Dodge D24 Town Sedan Main Wire Harness Assembly April 14, 2012 Purpose of Document This document details the configuration of the Main Wiring Harness of the subject vehicle which is undergoing restoration by the author. The actual configuration of this Main Harness is not determined in reference documents available to the restorer. Therefore it may be necessary to fabricate a replica harness to replace the original harness as part of this restoration project. -
What can I pull out of the car before I start setting in new wire. I picked up the car not running and the wires where not hooked up to the starter. Not sure if it was reverse polarity. I took the starter to Hammetts to have it checked and got it to work but I can't get the silenond to kick in when I think I have it hooked up right. Not sure where the wires go on the starter. There is 4 lugs on the starter. So I guess in need help with where the wires go on the starter and if I can't get it to turn the motor over I will need to replace the wire system with the one I bought from ez wire.thanks for any info......
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97 downloads
Polarization restores the residual magnetism in the cores of the generator field poles so that when the generator starts charging it will do so in the proper polarity. It is usually not necessary to re-polarize unless the generator has been removed and repaired or the regulator has been changed. If this has occured, then re-polarization should be done before starting the engine. Otherwise, the generator may not charge or it could charge in the reverse direction. Re-polarizing is relatively easy to do. All that is necessary is to briefly connect the generator armature to the battery hot terminal. The most convenient way to do this is to take a short jumper wire and touch it to the "Batt" and "Gen" terminals on the voltage regulator. At the moment of contact you should see a slight spark. This indicates that the process is completed. It should be noted that it is the generator that is being polarized, not the regulator. -
What can I pull out of the car before I start setting in new wire. I picked up the car not running and the wires where not hooked up to the starter. Not sure if it was reverse polarity. I took the starter to Hammetts to have it checked and got it to work but I can't get the solenoid to kick in when I think I have it hooked up right. Not sure where the wires go on the starter. There is 4 lugs on the starter. So I guess in need help with where the wires go on the starter and if I can't get it to turn the motor over I will need to replace the wire system with the one I bought from ez wire.thanks for any info......
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Just thought I would post some pics of my bullseye headlights being changed to new reflectors with a mount for a Halogen bulb fits 6 or 12 volt. I bought some Bosh headlights and broke the lenses out of them. Then you just clean the silicon off. Still need the bulbs and relays as they are not here yet. I did end up cracking one prying the metal from around the edge. So the next one and a replacement went into a mild acid solution and did the reverse of the Rust Removal using Electrolysis. So my headlight was connected to the positive lead on my 6 volt battery. Also I used some muriatic acid I had left over from the pool that I diluted with water. So 2 thirds water 1 third acid. Everything done outside. Total time to eat away the lip holding the glass was about 5 hours. I had a baking soda bath waiting for the headlight after it came out of the bath. Then used the rest to neutralize the acid. So anyway that where I am currently If you have never heard of the rust removal a link is below. I just reversed the connections so that it ate away my headlight. The electricity goes mostly line of site so I had a big washer right in front of the center of the lense. http://antique-engines.dickerson-design.com/electrol.asp
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I have been reading all the past threads that included the term resister and I think I've gotten more confused. I have a question about whether or not I should be running a ballast resister... 218 block, 12V system. When I bought the truck it had a 12v coil and an external ballast resister. When I tuned up the engine I sourced a 12-volt "internally resisted" coil and deleted the ballast resister. Am I going to fry my points without a external resister? Prior threads suggested that the "internally resisted" coils are not a good substitute for the mopar flathead electrical setup. Please advise. Thanks in advance for your help. Stephen
