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Three of the threaded holes for the air horn mounting screws were stripped by a previous owner. The screws are 10-24 RH so I ordered a Helicoil kit from McMaster-Carr, kit part number 91732A914. I wasn't sure at first whether it would be wise to change over to fine threads, but some online research told me that fine threads would be wrong for a soft metal like aluminum (too easy to strip) so I stuck with 10-24. Only other considerations were to remove the float and drain the gas out of the bowl (which I sucked out with a syringe) before drilling to avoid starting a fire and to mask off the carb body to avoid chips falling into the carb. Problem solved. I helicoil'd all four holes and I replaced the screws with allens because one of my originals was mismatched and I couldn't find the right style at the hardware store. . Finished...

Ok, so I was able to completely strip all of the other pieces from the fuel pump, except this one. Has anyone out there successfully removed this retainer cap for the rubber seal or does anyone know were I aquire such a peice. Thanks

I bought a 324 straight 8 engine block and it is at the machine shop now while they clean it and accumulate the parts for the rebuild. The block is from a 1949 New Yorker and I would like to put it into my 1947 New Yorker which currently has a Chrysler Industrial 8 with a Stromberg 2 barrel carburetor. I have noticed that there don't seem to be any carburetor re-build kits for this particular carb but that there are kits available for the Carter 1 barrel carburetor which was used on the later 1947 New Yorkers and subsequent years. Does anyone know if there are kits for the Stromberg? Should I go with the Carter? Which one is the better?

I have an issue of sputtering/hesitation and what feels like "running out of gas" every time I make a right turn. When I bought the car it would backfire several times and was a little difficult to drive. Once I had the Carburetor rebuilt, it drove significantly better. I was delighted that the fuel issue was eliminated after the rebuild, or so I thought. About the 5th to 7th time driving it, I began to notice sputtering and hesitation on right turns. I tried to duplicate the problem on left handed turns but had no success. However when it comes to right turns, its like clockwork. Last night, while driving straight, pulling away from a traffic light, it backfired badly and blew the muffler out. I'm assuming this is a fuel issue and the best thing is to take it back to the gentleman that rebuilt the carburetor. However, prior to doing so, I wanted to obtain more information and educate myself a little from the all the experienced folks within this forum. Things like incorrect float adjustment, something vibrating loose, poorly tightened screws, etc. or am I way off?

My mechanical fuel pump has an integrated fuel filter, but some flatheads have a filter attached to the carburetor inlet. Since the fuel pump has a filter already, is the carb filter really necessary or is it just extra insurance? Integrated Fuel Filter Carburetor Fuel Filter

Hello new to the forum. I decided to rebuild the carburetor on my 1948 Plymouth Special deluxe, and I'm kind of glad I did. There was a coating of rust sludge in the bottom of it but it still ran pretty good. I need a new float and float pin, I've found the float but I can't find the float pin. Does anyone know of any alternatives for a float pin, even if I have to modify an existing one? Also, are there any other alternatives to the carter carburetor that would bolt up in the stock location without modifying too much? I'm running the stock air bath air filter and I'd like to keep it looking stock. Thank you!

Carter B & B Service Manual View File Rebuild information and specifications, part numbers and other information regarding Carter Ball & Ball carbs from about mid 40's to late 50's. Submitter Lloyd Submitted 01/27/2018 Category Reference Information

Only been at this for a year, and I'm hoping to draw on your collective knowledge. The 1948 B1B-108 1/2 Ton Pickup I have has a Carter Ball & Ball Model D6H2 which I am told is not the original model for that application, what was the factory installed model for that year and model pickup built mid-year in Detroit? Thanks very much for your help.

The carb on the left us marked 2681S, the carb on the right is marked D8G1. Are these from a 2x1 setup? What's a reasonable value on these? Thank you for your time.

I've scanned the forum with no luck and over a month trying to get a solid run and driving me nuts...HELP! Engine and car finished,missing car shows now, plus I volunteered to drive a general in a Veterans Parade next weekend and I can't get this thing to run more than 20 seconds much less drive! Rebuilt a B&B D6G1, all new gaskets, factory settings, float is 5/64ths from the top set, gas pushing through valve into bowl and keeping filled, vaccum on the intake (wiper inlet) is 20s PSI green range, timing TDC (light tested), etc. and it SHOULD run in theory, right? Here's what I can figure out to establish a baseline setting for fine tuning so it can run without dying at idle (and draining battery after many attempted starts). If anybody has gone through this before: 1. For the threaded throttle rod from the bellcrank housing, where should the linkage arm be be set in relation to the throttle valve- fully closed, hair open, half way, full? Should the throttle adjustment screw be fully out with initial setting at closed or near closed? 2. The throttle screw in relation to #1, should this pull open the valve slightly from completely closed? How does it affect the choke cam? When the starter pedal is engaged, it pulls the bellcrank linkage bak anyway releasing s squirt down the body, right? 3. What is the baseline choke setting with the knob forward to the dash and the set screw on the cable? Should it allow the choke valve to free-range or traverse from fully open to fully closed? 4. I am assuming that the choke should be fully or near fully closed on starting/running so air can be drawn through the idle screw, right? The opening for that is tiny that apparently only a few degrees is the difference between air/no air. This is my 2nd carb I am trying and seems they are waaay too tempermental.

I am getting to the point where I may be putting the '40 wagon on the road soon, and ran across this post from Nov 2012 on the HAMB. I had never heard of Plymouth substituting the Chevy W1 Carter in 1947. The poster, Jon "carbking", seems pretty knowledgable on the subject. Can anyone validate his claims? He said Plymouth called it the Carter 574. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Since you have already decided to put on a two-barrel, the following may be moot; but you may find it interesting. The really easy and inexpensive way to dramatically improve both power and economy on those old Plymouth 218's is to simply bolt on a Carter W-1 built for Chevrolet. Plymouth actually did this in 1947 when the plant producing the BBR carb went on strike. The Chevrolet carb with no other changes is good for 5~10 percent increase in horsepower, and 20~30 percent increase in fuel economy. The W-1 used as factory equipment by Plymouth was the Carter 574s. During this time period, Carter offered 3 different levels of one-barrel carburetor: (A) BBR series - cheap, worked, but never worked well ( W series - inbetween price, worked excellent, but manual choke and power circuit © WA series - most expensive, worked a tiny bit better than the W, with auto choke and vacuum power circuit Of course, simply bolting on a different one-barrel is not as "cool" as putting on duals, but if no other mods are made to the engine; it would probably function better. Jon."