sser2

Rubber bushings and silent blocks for these springs are readily available. There is a spring lubricator attachment to grease gun to lubricate springs if the sheathing is still intact. If spring is intact (no broken leaves), don't remove the sheathing. It keeps dust out and grease in.

FSM specifies the length of front and rear shoe linings. For '38-39, front linings are 10 9/32 and rear linings are 7 11/16 for both front and rear axle. Using the recommended lining length is very important because these lengths, together with wheel cylinder front and rear diameters, determine the front-rear proportion of braking forces. If this proportion is incorrect, either braking efficiency will decrease, or, which is much more dangerous, rear wheels may lock before front wheels, causing loss of control during braking. In modern cars, there is a front-rear proportioning valve in the hydraulic system, but those old cars didn't have the proportioning valve, and proportioning was achieved by careful design of wheel cylinders and shoes.

Running 6V starter off 12V battery may be acceptable if engine starts flawlessly. Difficult starts will quickly overheat field coils/armature and cause starter failure. Another concern is excessive arching in starter switch and commutator causing their erosion. 6V starter has parallel connection of windings, which, with little ingenuity, can be modified to series connection for 12V operation.

Seal shaft diameter 1.734", outside diameter 2.726", width 0.500". National /Timken part #5836, Victor #49237, Mopar 668479. Check for wear groove on the shaft surface, this could be a cause of seal leakage. There is also felt dust washer that seals backing plate, check if it is in good condition. If linings are impregnated with grease, replace them, do not attempt cleaning.

According to FSM, up to 0.03" can be removed. If more turning is needed, a drum should be replaced.

It is 1:4.3.

Cturboaddict: i have a pdf service manual, but cannot append it to a pm because it is 13+ mb, but only 3 mb is allowed. I will try to make a smaller pdf of the relevant chapter and send it to your forum mailbox.

Frame alignment charts and measuring procedures are in the factory service manual. Did you try to settle springs without shocks? If pass. side spring hits something when you jack up the wheel, and won't flex any further, it is very important to determine what stops the flexing.

Yes, the FSM was for pro mechanics who were supposed to know torquing specs of standard fasteners.

Thanks. Looking at PCV arrangement in modern cars, I see deflection baffles and oil traps to capture larger oil droplets. I am not a fan of draft tube. The bulkhead and floor panels are not exactly airtight, so cabin gets a whiff of crankcase gas coming out of draft tube. That nostalgic smell of old cars that I'd rather not have.

Adam - what was particularly wrong?

Choose a PCV valve from engine with similar displacement, and it should work with no problems. To avoid burning oil, the valve should be placed high above sump, and connecting tube below the valve filled with steel wool.

Most of the time a car is coming your way and you develop love relationship with it. In my case, however, I knew what I wanted before starting search. I have particular affection for '37 body style. Previous years' cars were too boxy, and following years flattening tendency started, culminating in 60s-70s styles that I particularly dislike. From engineering standpoint, Mopar was superior to GMC and Ford. Of all Mopars, Plymouth was made in highest numbers, which is helpful for parts availability. 4 door cars were decidedly uncool, so I wanted 2 door. I also preferred sedan to coupe, as I like to travel in a good company. I would prefer a fastback sedan with no luggage hump, but, unfortunately, those are rare.

Helo!

They often appear on eBay. Drag link kit Drag link Tie rod end set