1949 Wraith

Just wondering if the fuel pickup in the tank has a hole in it? Sucking air instead of fuel for the last few gallons?

Lots of good tips. I would add do it on a warm day in the sun.

I am using BF Goodrich 215/75-16 radials on my '51 B3B. They are just a little shorter than the bias ply tires. This size was used on some older SUVs so there is not much in the different brands in this size. But these are a very nice ride.

I have been buying parts from Rock Auto. 2 day Fedex shipping to Canada, and is very reasonable depending on size and weight. They have your regulator $82 US you can also purchase in Canadian funds. You pay the GST so there are no broker fees. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1948,windsor+series,4.1l+251cid+l6,1486762,electrical,voltage+regulator,4884

Autolite 295

Tire diameter also effects rpms. But if you are running close to stock tires 50- 55 is a nice cruise in my '42. Suprisingly there is more there if you need it, but we are driving on 80 year old brake technology.

Double 0. check out your local welding supply store, they should carry it in bulk.

I use a 900 signal stat on my '42 Fargo with 6 volts. Installed 6 volt fog lights on the front bumper for the turn signals.

Measure the diameter of the throat of the intake manifold on the 201 motor and compare it to a basic Carter B&B. The D6G1 I have looks like 1.5" base intake. I have Canadian long block engines. I am running a different than stock B&B on my '42 truck. My '38 sedan has a long block, but a smaller throat Stromberg carb. Again I would just have to put on a newer intake manifold to fit a Carter, if I wanted. I would look for a basic Carter with the manual choke linkage and no dashpots. Your worst case is you might have to find a 23" intake manifold to fit a Carter if your truck is too small a throat.

Two screws hold the starter solenoid on the starter. Remove it to allow a little better access to the top bolt. I was replacing the starter on my '42 Fargo. I thought it would be a half hour job. I didn't have the right curved wrench, it took quite awhile to remove and it was not much more fun installing the new starter.

Welcome and a very nice looking truck. I used this information, when making the wiring looms for my '51 a few years ago. Poster had reversed engineered the original wiring harness with all the wire gauge and lengths listed. There are some other posts on this flathead site where they put in a fuse box and relays which I added into my wiring as well. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/wiring_harness/wiring.htm All kinds of usefull information on your truck here along with the Canadian parts list. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/know.htm

Hubs on the front axle are held on by the nut on the spindle. remove cotter pin and nut and hub will pull off by hand if shoes are not too worn or rusted. then tap with hammer around till loosened

Change to single head lights happened part way through 1965. It is a correct early 1965.

I was at a swap meet last week and ended up buying this 1965 Dodge D100 Utiline. She spent most of her life on a ranch in Coty, Wyoming. 225 slant 6 with 4 speed manual and 3.55 rear end.

Brushes and bushings are still availble if the starter just needs that. I have also used and use different starters from the same era. It depends if you want to continue with your foot starter on your truck or go to a solenoid and srater button. I have even taken the nose of the original and placed it on a new body. You might want to post your truck questions in the truck section of the forum.