JerseyHarold
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Everything posted by JerseyHarold
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I wouldn't use JB Weld on threads...you'll never get the pieces apart again. Have you checked the two brake line fittings that screw into the large nut on the end of the MC? The leak might be starting from there.
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Run a bead of JB Weld on the rim of the MC then install the copper gasket before it hardens and tighten the end fitting to squash it down into any pits.
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OT--First-Time Snowblower Start-Up Question
JerseyHarold replied to JerseyHarold's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I have a lawnmower with a Tecumseh engine and there is a very small orifice drilled into the carb bowl hold-down bolt that clogs very easily. I've had to pull it out and clean it with a pin to get the gas flowing again. The same issue happened to my neighbor's mower. The newer gasoline formulations gum up a lot faster than the older ones did. It seems logical that stabilizer can help this issue. -
This just appeared on the AACA website. Looks like a good deal for $200. http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/581222/gonew/1/f_s_1950_dodge_flathead_6_engi#UNREAD
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When the car is done you'll have the satisfaction of knowing you resurrected a car that has been a part your family and life for many years. Don't worry about the bodywork. Most restorers are their own worst critic. The people who see your car will appreciate it for being still on the road after all these years. They are not all concours judges! And in some weird, 'automotive karma' way, the car appreciates what you're doing for it.
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I haven't been there in years, but Ted's Hot Dogs on Sheridan Drive in Buffalo (actually the adjoining town of Tonawanda) makes great hot dogs. I used to see lines out the door for them.
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Your original floor looks pretty bad. My '51 business coupe is actually worse than that. The inner and outer rockers are completely gone, and the seat rocks back and forth because what's left of the floor pan is very weak. Sometimes I wonder if it will ever see the road again.
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OT--First-Time Snowblower Start-Up Question
JerseyHarold replied to JerseyHarold's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Norm, One of the reasons we moved down this way is because the winters are noticeably milder than other parts of New Jersey. There is a definite 'line' running east-west roughly along I-78 roughly 25 miles north of here. It's usually much worse north of the line. Also, there is another east-west line about 10 miles south of us along I-195. Most of the time people south of that line only get rain or very light snow. CaseyJoeS., I have a small bottle of Sta-Bil that came with the snowblower a couple of years ago. Is it still usable? If so, I'll put some in when I add fuel. -
OT--First-Time Snowblower Start-Up Question
JerseyHarold replied to JerseyHarold's topic in P15-D24 Forum
There's oil in the crankcase. The best part is that it's an electric start so no more yanking on the recoil cord like our old one. -
A couple of years ago we splurged on a new self-propelled snowblower. It was a floor model at Sears Hardware in the next town and we got a terrific deal on it. Anyway, we put it away, and haven't even had to start it since we got it due to the mild winters we had. It looks like that's about to change because they're predicting 8" of snow for tonight. Here's my question: The engine has never been run. Is there anything I should do (like squirt some oil down the cylinder) before firing it up for the first time? Any ideas appreciated. Harold
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Welcome aboard! I believe the running chassis and front-end sheetmetal was made in Canada and exported to Australia, and the body was built by Richards in Adelade. There are slight body contour and trim variations compared to US/Canadian market cars. Others probably have more info.
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If that's a Philco multi-band radio I had one just like it years ago. Never got it to work...needed an 'XXL' tube (aka 7A4) that I couldn't find locally.
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Just saw this ad. I'm sure someone here can use this stuff. http://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/1027207133.html
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Do you belong to AAA? They will tow it for free. Saves a lot of hassle!
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Just a thought..... Could the upholstery usually fading to brown be due to the dyes in the cloth not being UV resistant?
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Don't tires need a DOT number to be sold in the US?
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I'm afraid to ask.....where did you find this thing??
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I've read similar accounts of 'rebuilding' old batteries. Supposed to be fairly effective, at least in the short term. Be careful with the liquid in them....it's acid...dangerous!
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Does your truck have OBDII (all domestic US vehicles do)? If so, you should consider getting an inexpensive OBDII code reader.....you'll save the cost of the reader on your first repair. Also, many MAF's can be cleaned. Has your mechanic tried that?
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There is/was a company called Thompson Products (Tomco) that made a whole line of replacement carb fuel-line fittings for just this purpose. Might be worth a Google search. Also, I've wrapped aluminum foil around spark plug threads to tighten up stripped heads.
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Lots of rust-free iron down that way. If you drool, please be polite and wipe it up!
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If you're using lye, a good source for it is Easy-Off oven cleaner.....just be careful spraying it around.
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FWIW, I remember reading someplace that if you put a passenger-side exhaust manifold on the driver's side of the engine, it will clear the steering column without any more modification.
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'52's with OD have the word 'Overdrive' on the trunk lid and a lockout handle under the dashboard, as well as an extra relay and wiring under the hood.
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IIRC, 198.5" long, 73" wide.