JerseyHarold

If your '51 is a Business Coupe or fastback, the correct size was 6.40 X 15.

I've got a bunch of family stuff that weekend....won't be able to attend....Arggh!!

I've decided that this year I will again turn a wrench on my Plymouths. They've been sidelined too long and I'd really like to make some progress on them. The first project that's on my mind is replacing all four springs in my '52 Cambridge. The left rear leaf spring was changed by the prior owner and it has a couple more leaves than it should...looks like a case of putting in whatever was lying around. Anyhow, the left rear of the car is 'up', and the right front is cramped 'down'. I have new springs for all four corners of the car. I'm wondering if it is better to do the front coils first or tackle the leaf springs initially. My concern is putting too much twist on the chassis (although it has been this way for several decades already) if I replace the springs in the wrong order. What are your opinions?

That one looks like it started out as a business coupe. I read somewhere that Plymouth made a one-off '51 business coupe convertible for a Chrysler executive that year.

Some sellers are incurable optomists...they just know they'll find a sucker out there somewhere.

This car started life a a '52 Cambridge Club Coupe and has appeared on eBay at least a dozen times with no takers. Factory-bult convertibles came with reinforced frames for a reason. There is one photo in the listing that shows the trunk lid area with lots of paint chips around the edges...probably due to body flex. That wouldn't happen with a stronger chassis.

Best modern cars we've had in the past dozen or so years have been Ford products. Two Crown Victoria ex-police cars (a '91 and '96) and our 2001 Taurus. The '91 was a very comfortable car and the '96 got nearly 30 MPG on the highway (not unusual for Crown Vics, amazingly enough). We've had the Taurus for almost 5 years now and are also very pleased with it...we'll probably buy another one at some point. Last fall we got a '99 Contour and, after some 'growing pains', it's serving its purpose.

Rodney, Take lots of pictures to document this fiasco. You may need them for evidence if things don't go right with the bodywork.

The two worst ones were a '63 Lincoln Continental and a '70 Pontiac LeMans. Neither one could go for more than a couple of weeks before needing a repair. The Lincoln had the added bonus of being hard to work on....three different shops refused to install a watrer pump so we ended-up doing it ourselves.

Since you're on the Island, you can try Auto Barn or Aid Stores to see what's available locally. Might save a lot of hassle by seeing it in person.

Depends on your definition of correct. Chevy pickup truck antennas from roughly the late-1970's have the correct fender contour and are readily available at parts stores for under $20.00 each. If you're looking for NOS, figure $75.00-up.

Four times in the last three weeks gas station and food counter personnel have tried to short-change me. Each time, I calmly pointed out what I owed, the amount I handed them, and the correct amount of change I was supposed to get. Every issue was resolved without a word of protest. My take is that these situations are on the increase due to the state of the economy today. Just putting this out there so others don't get fleeced. Harold

If it has a separate motor and compressor connected by a belt, you should be able to replace just the motor. The quickest course of action is to buy a new compressor. Being the frugal guy that I am, I would hold onto the old unit and check flea markets and yard sales until I found a motor for a few bucks, then fix it and keep it for non-critical uses like inflating tires.

The outdoor scenes of Highway Patrol were filmed in California on private roads because Broderick Crawford lost his driver's license due to DWI so couldn't legally drive a car on public streets. The CHP used '55 Buick Special two-door sedans equipped from the factory with the larger Century engine and three-on-the-tree transmission.

FWIW, if you want to yank the chain of the "call us quick there's a problem" scammers, don't forget to block your phone number so they can't see who you are. That's *67 on most phones.

Assuming it's a California rust-free example, that price sounds like it is in the ballpark. I would have the car looked-at on lift to make sure the brake system is intact and that the tires aren't dry-rotted. Then, of course, a little friendly dickering might save you some money on the purchase price. Let us know how you make out.

Ribbed bumpers were unique to the second-series '49 (P-18 series). The P-18's had little chrome mini-fins that house the taillights. Also, the P-15's have a separate starter button and the P-18 has 'turn-key' starting with the ignition lock to the left of the steering wheel. Can you post a picture?

Is it a first-series or second-series '49??

Most junkyard owners aren't marketing experts or MBA's. A professionally-run yard can make an awful lot of money.

What I would recommend is to have the locksmith make your ignition key first, then once it works the switch you can try it out around the car to see what else it fits. There are a couple of basic ways to fit a key. One method is called 'impressioning' where the locksmith starts with an un-cut key blank and goes through a process to file the correct cuts into it. You don't have to disassemble the lock for this technique. Another way is for the locksmith to pick the lock to the open position to remove it from the ignition switch housing, disassemble it, and file down a key blank to the correct pattern based on the pin sizes inside the lock cylinder. As mentioned earlier, some locksmiths can 'read' the pin heights with their tools without disassembling the lock and cut a key that way. You can use newer, less expensive blanks for your car, as long as having a more modern key head doesn't bother you. If the locksmith you're talking to gives you a funny look when you use the words 'impressioning', 'reading', or 'picking', do yourself and your car a favor and find another shop. Harold

Even though they're not making Tecumseh engines anymore, I think there will still be aftermarket parts available for them. Just look at our cars....flathead sixes went out of production over 30 years ago and you can still buy lots of parts at the store for them.

I think the cap Alex is referring to is the 'end cap' that screws into the back of the master cylinder that has the front and rear brake line connections.

I think all '49-'52 passenger cars are the same. Also Dodge trucks up into the mid-fifties. The Mopar parts vendors sell repros which might be a better way to go than trying to track down NOS.

Another source for these used to be the tool-loan program at Pep Boys. Don't know if they still do it. I think Advance Auto Parts has/had a similar program.

I pulled the spark plug (it was really tight, so I added some anti-seize to the threads), squirted in some oil, and added gas. The engine fired-up on the second pull of the rope. My kids (15&17) have been using it to clear the driveway. So far so good. Thanks to all for their advice. Harold