JerseyHarold

I've heard the term 'fogging oil' used in reference to oil designed for long-term engine storage. Might be worth looking into.

Have you ever checked the coolant temperature sensor or the throttle position sensor?

Check the underside of the under-hood fuse box. I've heard the connections can corrode and give you weird electrical problems.

Just a wild-assed guess, but have you checked that the emergency brake is properly installed and adjusted?

You can make your own clips with some sheet metal and tin snips. I did that on one of my '52's years ago and it worked out well.

Thanks for getting back to me.

I'll eventually need tires to replace the rotted 'rollers' on my car now. What brand did you get and where did you buy them?

Quick way to sort 'em out: The horn ring and stainless windshield trim make it a Cranbrook. The windshield gaskets are different between Cambridge and Cranbrook...the Cranbrook gasket has a groove to accept the trim. I doubt anyone would have gone to the trouble and expense of all that. There are several other tell-tales as well, like a locking glove box and dome light switch for the right front door.

Not trying to be a wise guy, but the seller may not respond to the 'is it still available' push-button. If you write a sentence or two to the seller it may make him respond to you.

Andy, After Pete sold his Plymouth, he got involved with (I believe) a Jeepster. He created a web page for that project and listed the URL in some of his Plymouth posts. Hope this helps. Best regards, Harold

Mounting spot for foot-operated windshield washer pedal?

Good to hear you found a solution. Please post a picture when you put it together.

Here's a painting tip I recently found out about: Cut a slit in the bottom of a paper cup and push the brush handle through it. The cup will catch any drips when the brush is held upside-down. Hope this helps.

Congrats! It's good to see that our P-23's are finally getting the recognition they deserve.

When reassembling the gas tank straps, I recommend using anti-seize grease on the threaded end of the straps. It will make future work much easier!

Check to see that the heat riser valve (sandwiched between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe) is open and swiveling freely. If it's closed, the engine exhaust will be restricted and the car can overheat.

Jim Benjaminson is an officer in the Plymouth Owners' Club and a noted Plymouth authority. One of the books he wrote is 'Plymouth 1946-1959' which is a fairly complete history of those years. It's available on Amazon. It might be easier in the long run to bring your existing radio delete plate to an automotive paint supplier for them to match the color electronically. I've heard that some original paint ingredients aren't available anymore, so you'd end-up with a modern formula anyway. It doesn't appear in my signature, but I also have a '51 Business Coupe that hasn't been registered in 50 years. It's pretty much complete (thanks to several other cars!) but has major floor and rocker rust. I shouldn't be too surprised because, according to the build card from Chrysler, it was originally delivered to a dealer in Detroit. Keep us posted on your progress. Regards, Harold

In Jim Benjaminson's book he refers to the color as Alaska Gray, which I believe is incorrect. I have a '52 Salesman's Data book someplace in my 'files' and as I recall they call it Astral Gray Poly. UPDATE: I dug out the data book and it makes no reference to interior paint color names. I must have seen Astral Gray listed in another piece of literature. If I find the source, I'll post it here. Whatever the name is, it's easier to re-do than the gray woodgrain used in the '51's!

Back in the 1960's it was recommended to use a 'pinhole camera' to view the eclipse. You needed 2 pieces of corrugated cardboard (about 9" x 9", or thereabouts). You'd stand with your back to the sun and hold the cardboard that had the hole above the one that didn't. Vary the distance between the two pieces of cardboard to adjust the focus. You'd see an image of the sun being eclipsed by the moon projected onto the lower piece of cardboard. I tried this as a kid during an eclipse and it worked well.

The original engine number should begin with 'P23'. Before ordering any engine parts, I'd verify what engine is in the car. If it's from another year or model, I'd get parts to fit what's in the car now.

If you get a bolt with the same thread and a little longer than the original lower bolt, you can make an alignment pin for removing/installing the starter. Remove the original lower bolt, cut the head off the longer bolt, and screw it in where the lower bolt goes. You can then remove the other starter bolts without having to support the starter at the same time.

Good info. I've heard the hole is an ozone vent for ozone that is created by the ignition points sparking when they open.

To clean up the existing rust, I'd use 'XXXX' grade steel wool (the softest grade) with some WD-40 as a lubricant. Then follow with a non-abrasive wax (like pure Carnuba) for protection. The only way to really get rid of the rust would be to do a chrome strip and replate...very pricey.

Good to hear he is well. Thanks for the update.

It occurred to me that I haven't seen his posts for a while. His latest forum posting was last August. Has anyone communicated with him recently?