thebeebe5

Oops! Trying to do all this with an iphone doesnt always work well!! LolI hit 'em again, this time with Cape Cod wipes which I normally wouldn't use on plated silver, but they looked awful in that last picture... This time they're better.

Sharp looking car Robert! Yeah, foglights just LOOK right on these cars IMO. I think my switch is bad too. Just got done tracing wires. Can't find any breaks in them. I cant check continuity with the short wires on my voltmeters and I'm running out of time today to work more... I just am not sure why BOTH high and low witing go through that switch.... Lot's I don't understand... And I wish there was a bit more room to work up in there.... The back of that switch is quite shrouded between the body and frame. Thankfully r/r looks pretty straight forward with the switch coming up into the car rather than out from underneath. There even looks like almost enough slack to grip the wires and remove and reattach to a new replacement. Colors have all changed on the old wires, but they look intact: So, on the new switches they also accomodate the male bullet looking connector? And the headlights both polished up like this:

Good points all, Rich. I have punched the button a number of times. Thankfully I have the repair manual and saw the wire schematic for my car and will be tracing the wires to and from their J-boxes. Will check continuity as well. I do have the 2331's installed. Ordered a couple NOS off ebay, and once everything is working properly I'l probably swap to 35w halogens as suggested to me by Tod. Silver polish was definitely what I used. Found some nice looking cloth wrapped wire on ebay I may try for fog light hookup. I'll check the manual for a switched terminal on the ignition switch. Like the idea of them being key-on dependent.

So, I'm learning a bit about the lights on my '37. Discovered there are "parking" lights that actually make the lights bright enough that I thought the regular bulbs were working. These are the lights I drove home with the night I picked up my car. :-/ No wonder all I could see in front of me was my shadow cast by my buddy's '55 Chevy lights.... LOL Turns out the right bulb has one burned out filament, and the left was fine, BUT it will only work if I depress the Hi/Low switch. Got out a multimeter and found one contact in each light does work with that switch in one position, but if the switch is actuated then neither contact has power, and this must have been the position the switch was in for my drive home. I think there could be two scenarios: I'm guessing the switch is bad and my low beams work, OR the switch activates my highs, and the lows never work (think this the most likely). Still have some figuring to do. I also took the time to polish the reflectors in each. They looked pretty good as they were, but since I'm in there.... And I may have found a replacement for the gasket between the glass and reflector. If it actually works I'll post my solution!! Also, I have a nice set of Guide 2004A fog lamps mounted to my bumper brackets and neither are hooked up. I obtained a vintage style switch to wire these up and have a couple of questions. First, what gauge wire should I select to get this job done? Second, where would you all recommend tapping into power to fire these things up?

NONE of the three can accommodate the curve of the headlight lens.... I have some returns to make tomorrow....

These might work out nicely.... Have to pass a HF (or three) in my travels today. I'll see what they look like, and if they work I'll report back.

You know, there's a lot in that manual I don't even think of. Actually got one from Bernbaum a couple weeks ago and took it out of cello last night. I'll have a look! And your "tool free" method is how I accomplished the task. Just seems like they could fall out driving down the road. :-/

Can anyone advise on the proper way to do this? I saw a screw and tab underneath and removed the screw.... The lens seemed to be a bit loose to start with and I'm not sure this screw did anything to help me remove the lens, but bumping it carefully tilted it enough at that point that I could remove it. A bit worried to try it again on the other side, so I'm open to any tips. Did a forum search and didn't see any info on this.... Also checked tech articles (wonderful place btw!!) edit: There also seems to be an old cork gasket around the lip of the lens. Stock? I don't see replacements at Bernbaum and am wondering if a prior owner installed them.... edit #2 Tod, I saw your "clothsline" gasket on your website. Recall seeing it before, but as I hadn't done this yet I didn't get it. Get it now....

Good info Tod and bones44. Looks like there maybe something besides the sender gasket at the top of the tank.... Might not have a choice but to pull it, see what's up and order parts.... I'll have a gasket ready. And I'll see if I can ID this tank manufacturer and contact for grommets.... They may have died from alcohol poisoning....Edit: called Tanks Inc just now. I DO have one of their tanks as the center baffle is a patented identifier for their tank. They set me up with a "poly pack" which should contain every piece on the topside of the tank: vent tubes, pickup connectirs and grommets as well as a sender gasket and screws. Should be able to fix it up in one shot...! Thanks for the tip again bones!!

Anyone installed a polymer tank in their ride as a replacement for an old factory steel tank? Reason I ask is that the '37 I bought came with one similar to this one on ebay, and I need to pull the tank to find a "full tank" leak. Want to try to have what I need on hand to repair it in one shot while on the lift. Might be the pick up line too, but won't know till its empty and out. Can anyone with experience confirm the sender requires an SAE5 5 bolt 2 5/8" size sender gasket? Maybe that's the stock size sender, I don't know....

Cool shots. I've run up on a couple of yards like that in my travels around the valley. Stay hydrated!! 117 in the west valley today....

Not to hijack this thread, (and I AM in the same boat as the OP being new to real antique car operation) but how does one find out if their trans was syncro equiped? I am learning to shift s-l-o-w-l-y between gears on my '37 as it WILL grind if I rush it. I assumed this was because it was a non-syncro trans, but maybe my gearbox needs service?

Good information. Glad to have found this posting.

Speaking personally, if I don't love it I sell it to someone who will. Sounds like you have a nice collection as it is. Keep what your heart is in.

Have seen an attempted murder..... http://imgur.com/gallery/5fGK8

Okay, NOW you're just showing off...! But I don't blame you!!! You had me at Chrysler Royal Touring Sedan.... Wow, what a car!! Super collection!!

Just don't do it like this: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D71SfvPMXno

Could be right, Tod. At any rate I'm definitely looking for replacements. Found some on another forum. Just need to get an appointment with the gentleman and plan a road trip.

Thanks Ralph. Do these wheels have date stamps on them anywhere...?

It's just the one wheel that someone torched the center out of... And I'm looking, I'm looking! ;-)

I don't believe so. It's still held on by five bolts. Like Mr. Adams said, it is no longer indexed to the hub by the center of the wheel. A non-issue once all the lug bolts are installed.

Okay, all great information. I'm looking for 4inch backspace (or thereabouts) 4.5"x5 pattern and dodge/plymouth wheels should accomodate the "bumps" or locating rivets I see on my brake drum/hubs. That was something I noticed last weekend, but it didn't occur to me that it was something to watch out for on replacements. I want to retain a stock look and keep my caps too. Here's what I have now.... The top is the only wheel that was butchered around the center, but each if mine has something that was torched out in a single spot at the center oddly enough.... The 235/75/15 are right at 27 3/4" tall and speedo is spot-on with GPS.

I'm of the understanding that a 16" wheel would have been original on my '37 P4. Currently have a full 5 set of 15" wheels and mismatched tires. Wheels have seen better days being rather rusty on the back side and with some definite bends (but not too bad!) on the inside only. Is it correct that these 15s are incorrect? Wondering if bolt patterns or wheel design changed a great deal from 1937 to about 1950's or so in order that I might start to locate replacements. I'm not in a panic about correct wheel size, but just want options for replacements. If 16s came on it I ought to be able to go with either the 15s or 16s. Basically, what are my options for swapping other rims onto my 37?

Andy, the crumbled fiber board was the major issue here.... That, and a poor ground. All remedied and tail and brake lights working perfectly now. ;-) Understood about the scarcity of parts there. Had a roomate in FL from Yagoona that brought an early 70's Barracuda back to Oz when he left USA. Was ALWAYS mailing and calling me to help find parts.

Walked into a shop that had the "time is standing still" look in Old Town Scottsdale. Older gentleman had just one on the shelf. I'da bought more, but I'll keep my eyes peeled. Thanks for the help fellows!! I had no idea how "common" it was! LOL I'll get the multi-tester out and figure the circuits this weekend.