thebeebe5

Driver's tail light doesn't work. It worked intermittently when I brought the car home last weekend. Took bulb out to find the floor plate of the socket with the contacts has crumbled. How is this best repaired? Not quite sure what to call it.... I looked on Bernbaum and didn't find anything like it. The wiring is out on my bench now and I could solder a new disk/contact to it and reinstall, but what am I looking for? Also, found my wiring cleverly wire nutted at the fuel tank corner. Two wires of indeterminate color in the upper nut and a black wire solo in the lower. The yellowish wire has pulled free from what I assume is the lower nut with the black wire.... Assume I should keep yellow/black together, but I haven't gotten that far with the wires. I'll pull back the tape on the wire attached to the socket contact plate and see what color wires are there, but for now have to head to work. Once this is done Tod I'll order up some of the LEDs we discussed.

Very nice looking car! I'm in the same boat. New vintage Mopar, lots of Noob questions. Love learning!! Everyone's been happy to answer questions here, and there's a wealth of prior info I'm finding in searches. Like the dual carb setup!!

there's a place right here in Phoenix on se7th street called Dick's speed o tach. You might not have to ship yours at all. They advertize fast turn around. Its a small, old house right on the corner of 7th st and Montecito.

it is a Ford engine Young Ed. And reviewing the OP's initial post it really does not appear to be that much metal in the oil (or accumulated trash from storage or whatever it is). My point is, and several others have made the same, is that the engine should be checked if for no other reason than it is new to the OP and it has been sitting for a very long time. Checking the valve lash will tell if there's an issue with the camshaft. Maybe this spring pressures in a flathead six are not enough that anyone has to ever worry about a new camshaft at engine break-in which would be a relief to me as I may end up going through my own engine soon. Would be awesome if it were a simple matter of a lean misfire or a failing condenser or coil or other similar item, or simply that the engine needs exercise

So, the shift knob I have is 3/8" x 24tpi. And as it turns out, 3/8" x 24tpi is the size tap for a 5/16" x 24tpi helicoil. That's the thread size in pitch on my shifter .... BOOM!

What part number was it please? Interested in the same after I do a little research.... have Ignitors in my hopped up F250 and my stock 70 VW and love them

Sounds exactly like my cam incident.... Drained oil looked like a metallic paint almost.... Motor misfired occasionally starting after break-in with a few unusual sounds. I am very new to the flathead 6, and don't know if the cam can be visialized with the VCs off, but you can at least check valve lash and see if there's an unexpectedly large gap.... Hoping for the best for you...

Did this motor get a new camshaft with the rebuild....? Gotta hope it's not your cam, but I rebuilt an FE a year ago that wiped a lobe and that's what cam out. Some small particles wouldn't worry me, but I'd be checking valve lift to be sure. How did the motor sound when it was running? Notice any excessive valvetrain noise?

if ya can't fix it, duck it. Right? ;-)Might follow Mr. Adam's advice and get an insert or turn one myself.

The shift knob on my '37 P4 coupe is definitely not an original. The threads on the shifter are much smaller than the threads in the knob, consequently it keeps coming off in my hand.... It does look period correct though. Does anyone have a picture of the shift knob that would be on a vehicle of this vintage?

Each shackle DOES have a grease fitting.

I lost count at about 18.... Didn't think to look for one on the WP but I'll check this afternoon. Thanks for the heat idea. I'll give it a try.

Perfect. Thank you Tod.

I understand, but a starting diameter value must be known by someone. Somewhere.

Thanks fellows. I'll probably go the easy route and get an aftermkt gauge for the time being. There's a Stewart Warner one I like and the lead isn't ridiculously long.... Glad to know I have generous room for different probes. Will look into repairing the original at some point in the future. And thanks also for fielding my many questions. There will be more to come!

Sadly the "heat" gauge in my cluster no longer works. Some conscientious PO actually cut the lead off the back of the gauge and I don't know if that can be repaired.... BUT someone else added a John Deer gauge a long time ago so... Wait. That doesn't work either. :-( I need a new gauge. I'll undermount it where the JD is. What size is the NPT fitting on the head? Also, how deep of a probe can I use? Would like to avoid draining coolant at the moment just to determine the depth dimention so if anyone can help that'd be great!

I did refer to Tod's pages after asking the question and saw that I was probably fighting a losing battle. My whole point yesterday was to see what I would need, and then go back at a later date with all my parts and get it done. So, I'll be rebuilding all four wheel cylinders since the front were a little weepy and it would follow the rears could be as well. I need a rear brake hose. I need tie rod ends, grease seals, rear U-joint boot and a few other items. Outer bearings on the front looked new, but the inner seals looked really old so I'm betting someone took a shortcut and only replaced outers.... I'll get inner and outer bearings to have available in case I need to go that far. I tried to grease all the fittings I could find, but some were clogged and I'll look for replacements. Area they a standard size? I had asked in my initial post if anyone knew the max ID for the drums.... Anyone? I could not find a number printed/stamped anywhere on the front drums. Thanks for the help all! Never a dull moment with an old car...

Here's a question...: How do I remove the rear drums?

Look like leather covers to me... At least on the front. Makeshift cloth cover on the back. Is this a replaceable boot?

Current wheels on this car are 15 inch… Would they be later replacement then?

Up on the lift at the moment and I'm surprised at how many grease fittings there are… Today's plan is to pull the wheels and check all the brakes Front to back. Looks like the front hoses are fairly recent, but the rear hose is old and weeping fluid. Don't have the wheels off yet. Don't have the wheels off yet. It does look as if there are two tie rod ends that need to be replaced. Everything else is mostly tight. Everything else is mostly tight. I do have a question about these original leaf springs. I'm wondering why they are wrapped… And I'm afraid of what might be under the wrapping! Anything in particular I should be looking for while I'm under here? Unfortunately I forgot my real camera at home, so all I have is an iPhone for photos. But it will do…

5/16" Clevis pin and pin clip is the current solution, Ed. Works fine and fits snuggly. Might change to whatever is proper later, but no one's going to be judging this....

That does look nice. Might do that to mine, but they'll look out of place on the dingy motor for a while....Question: can I reuse the exhaust and intake fasteners when I swap the manifold?

Bob, the wheels are 16". Current tires are 235/75/16 and are huge.... Would love to stick with a radial, but want the wide white look. Have heard of the Bf Goodrich silversides and will look into them. This brings up another point: I notice what look like regular non-tube valve stems.... Can tubless tires be mounted on the vintage rims and not leak, or is it likely these wheels have been changed....?

might very well have been this car then... I like the brown myself. Seems very "vintage" to me.